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enzo_e492901

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Everything posted by enzo_e492901

  1. Could you please enlighten me as to which IACV you used and how you achieved this please? The FTE throttle body only has part of an IACV on it. The rest of it is on the FTE manifold and that one does not work with the standard loom or ecu I believe. On the standard throttle body the whole IACV is on the bottom. Gavin
  2. Because its a bypass valve there is one pipe on each side of the butterfly so at idle with both lines disconnected only one would suck. If the throttle was opened a little both would suck one more than the other. Working as it should the valve in the steering rack would allow the vacuum side to suck from the other side when the steering is moved. The IACV on the FTE manifold is a little harder to seal yeah but it looks about the right size for a 1/4 bps or npt plug it just need drilling out and tapping. Gavin
  3. Glad I was of help. Yeah as far as I can work out the FTE manifold is the same as the Gi one except like you say the FTE one has more holse drilled in it for sensors and vacuum lines. Pluging them up will be fine ive had to plug a couple on the Gi one aswell. I just want to say my success with the FTE inlet and 45mm TB might be due to the Gi's pink injectors (believed to be 200cc) but as the ecu controls the duration it might not. May also be the Gi's fuel regulator or even both. I dont think it is TBH but just a warning because ive never had standard injecters in the Gi engine so have nothing to compare. I will be mesuring the fuel pressure soon on the Gi so I can fit a fuelab fuel regulator so ill know if its the same as uk cars soon. Thanks man its good to be back just cant keep away. lol Gavin
  4. No problem!! I would recommend the FTE inlet having one as standard on my Gi engine before I rebuilt it and will be going back to it soon!. You will not be able to use the FTE throttle body tho due to different idle air control valve. When my Gi engine was fitted we had the same problem with the throttle body so we mated the standard throttle body to the FTE inlet and it worked very well. One thing I noticed is I think your measuring the wrong side of the throttle body. They taper from front to back so you need to measure the back of the throttle body. The standard one is 45mm and the FTE and 4afe ones are 50mm It really is a matter of knowing where you want your power The corolla manifold is better low to mid but if you slapped a bigger (50mm) throttle body on it it will help top end. But the manifold needs modding to fit it. (could see good gains I believe the Gi engine would of seen this manifold as standard had it been designed in time for this engine) FTE manifold is better top end but if you slapped a smaller (45mm) throttle body on it it will help low to mid. (I believe this is best allround config) FTE manifold mated to a 4afe (50mm) throttle body would result in a screamer that needs to be reved hard to do anything useful I believe (this is closest to the Gi engine) As the corolla manifold needs modding to fit the 4afe 50mm throttle body your better off with the FTE inlet so you can try both throttle bodys but you will need an adaptor to cover an IACV port at the back of the throttle body with this manifold no matter which throttle body you choose. Its swings and roundabouts. This is a very simplified/brief explanation tho. Gavin
  5. I believe the vacuum lines that go from the throttle body to the steering rack is an idle up valve that lets air leak past the throttle body to up the revs when the steering is moved or gets to its end stops at idle. The normal electronical IACV dose not control this because it was probably cheaper and/or easier to use a mechanical valve than to use an electronical sensor to talk to the IACV. If you were to disconnect the lines from the throttle body end and not block the holes in the throttle body there would be a vacuum leak and it would idle high. If you were to disconnect the lines from the steering rack and not block the holes in the steering rack it would not matter as long as you blocked off the lines from the throttle body and didnt connect them together or you get the vacuum leak again. As your 4afe throttle body dont have the holes on the throttle body there is no problem apart from the revs dropping at idle when the steering is used. Im guessing you can get power steering and non power steering throttle bodys. In theory all you would need to do to a non power steering throttle body to get it to work with a power steering rack would be to connect one line from the steering rack to each side of the throttle body butterfly. As for the high idle I would say you did something wrong and introduced a vacuum leak making the engine idle high. Same when you restored everything to the way it was. I hope that helped and has not confused you more. Gavin
  6. There is one that colour that I have seen around Loughborough. Its kinda pale lilac. Gavin
  7. Cheers everone. A few more bits and parts have turned up today, some interesting some not so interesting. Just a few more bits to get and then I can start. New drivers side door hinges because the old ones have major play in them Rear quarter panel and sill Wing Compressors new and old Air fed mask Gavin
  8. Cheers for the kind words everyone. Gavin
  9. I dont park my car on the street so Street View aint gonna work for me but I did find my car on normal Google Maps satellite view. Gavin
  10. As im getting close to starting the bodywork (next week hopefully) I thought id outline my plans. I have/want to ... Replace part of the drivers side rear quarter panel and sill. Remove the bump strips from both sides. Smooth the ridges that are under the bump strips. Drivers side only to start with and I bet no one notices ive only done one side for a month or two. (The only smoothing im doing youll be glad to hear) Mod the front bumper. Replace passengers side front wing Spray the complete drivers side of the car, front bumper and passengers side wing. I might if I have time do the bonnet aswell. Will do passengers side of car and rear bumper in a month or two. Try to get a TTE Spoiler, spray and fit. Compound and polish everything ive sprayed and the boot lid. The panel patches will be cut out of genuine Toyota body panels welded in then sprayed in a two stage 2k acrylic paint. Ive got a new spray gun and have ordered an air fed mask, a second compressor and some stupidly expensive compressed air preparation filters for breathable air. To try and save some money I am building an air cooler/dryer/condensator with a water trap for added protection before the filters . I have evicted the wide arch Peugeot 205 and cleaned the garage as a make shift workshop / spray booth. Its cosy at 3M x 5M but it will do. This is the damage after the MOT tester shot a bolt though it. when I took it to the test it was only bubbling paint. I believe its an old repair gone bad. New spray gun Diy air cooler/dryer/condensator water trap not present Improvised spray booth More soon Gavin
  11. I think it looks quite clean and tidy, they do look nice in white, good luck with the project. Gavin
  12. The paint is an acrylic. I got it from an antomovive paint supplier, that's your best bet! Gavin
  13. Wish I had the time because I would love to. Gavin
  14. Thanks for the kind words everyone. Gavin
  15. Thanks for understanding and the kind comments. Gavin
  16. I've had my 1997 Starlet Sportif for four years now un-modded apart from an engine from a Gi and a filter. I drove it hard and it started to burn oil lots of oil. I thought of a turbo conversion but I like instant N/A power so I decided to rebuild with one or two little tweeks. I love Toyota!! After an estimated 100,000 miles I pull this engine apart and there is very little ware. First this is a before shot I would like to take this opportunity to further confirm that I believe this engine to be assembled from mainly turbo components this is my guess... Rods = Looks like 4E-FTE Valve Springs = Look likes 4E-FTE Sump = 4E-FTE (It's Baffled) Head = Early 4E-FTE (Not to sure has an extra water channel in the head) Crank = Who knows This engine is going to be rebuilt with... New genuine toyota parts consisting of... Oil Pump Water Pump Gasket Kit Main shells Big end shells Piston rings Thrust bearings Distributor and rotor arm Trd 0.6mm head gasket a second hand Glanza/Corolla intake mani Some custom made (by me) parts consisting of Catch can Teflon manifold insulator (To insulate and to seal the extra water channel in the head) Teflon thtottle body insulator and some other bits... Stainless steel fasteners all round apart from critical locations (Head bolts, main bolts etc) Samco Silicone all round and I do mean all round Almost every metal bracket in the engine bay has been striped of rust chemically, etch primed and sprayed. I didnt decide to write this untill after I started so photos start half way through engine dismantling. Block on bench almost dismantled Block dismantled, acid cleaned, and cylinders horned Head hot tanked, decarbonated and skimmed still to be phosphorus brightened One piston cleaned (2 hours lol) Throttle body before dismantling and clean after Catch can Manifold Last for now colour engine block is going to be. orange my fav colour. Stay tunes for more soon Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Busy again today as ever I forgot to say at the beginning its getting a cam belt kit too but I guess that might of been obvious. Tools of choice for today Cleaned cams Cleaned another piston and rod Cleaned engine bay More painted brackets I missed in yesterdays post Manifold and TB insulators templates almost finished Don't know why I took this one I just kinda like the look of them. lol More soon Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First i'm going to share a brainwave I had eriler today... If you remove the stock air box you loose a place for the air intake temp sensor but if you keep the stock black rubber intake pipe I have a solution for you. Remove the intake resonator. Get ahold of a 25mm PVC plumbing end cap (I got mine from a aquarium supply place fishfurfeather.com). Use the grommet from the stock air box and make a hold in the end of the end cap and insert the grommet. Trim the round disk section of the air intake sensor and then insert that into the grommet. Now fit this assembly in the hole left by the resonator. Photos below... Now for todays update wicked, super, fantastic, chevy orange engine enamel And something I find really funny there is more ware on the oil seal riding faces made by the lips of the seal than in the rest of this engine. lol How can rubber do this? Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sorry it's been a while since I mentioned a small orange coloured update above^^ which was going to be photos of the block and rocker cover painted. I had an orange artistic tantrum. in other words I didnt like the shade of orange so sent it all out to be acid diped again. Rocker cover and block painted but not cleaned up/polished. I hope to start rebuilding the engine over christmas so watch this space as I now have all the parts apart from head gasked and cam belt kit. Ryoal Mail lost the parcel after it took over a month on back order from TMD. I have now reordered a head gasked from RHD Japan and cam belt kit/components from Toyota. Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just thought I would post a little update to let people know that im still working on this. I rebuilt the head last night and I simply cannot wait untill its finished. Its been in bits about 2 months now and I really miss my car but it is starting to look kinda like an engine again. yay Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello again. I have now finished cleaning everything and hope to start the rebuild on monday. I have lots of little assemblies cleaned and ready and waiting to make the rebuild easer. I want to stress how important I believe a clean rebuild is. I think pics are in order Sump cleaned before painting Crank cleaned Pistons Distributor cleaned and rebuild And I finally have my TRD head gasket. YAY I get lost in the detail sometimes and it takes too long and I loose motivation. But as they say the eye is in the detail. More on Monday or Tuesday Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok im a bit early I know but as I finished it early I just had to show you all my cleaned up rocker cover. enjoy Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today I prepared the Block and installed the Crank, Oil Pump and Rear Oil Seal Housing. So this Plus this Equals this Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Busy again today. Photos speak a thousand words... I also machined the Throttle Body Insulator And trial fitted it with two bolts Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok I checked the Main Bearing and Big End Bearing Cap toruqes today after 48 hours and installed the Oil Strainer, Sump, Rear End Plate and Flywheel. Photos... I plan to have the Clutch and Pressure Plate installed Monday morning and the engine in sometime on monday afternoon. I am fitting it without the head on and with the gearbox still in the car only really because I dont want to take the bonnet off and thats the way it came out aswell. Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I installed the Clutch and Pressure Plate and got the Engine and some other bits and bobs in today. Will do Head, Cams, Timing Belt and few other bits tomorrow, then I have got to do the wiring loom in new black (not dirt gray) split loom. Still loads to do. Photos Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Today I installed the Water Pump, Head, Cams, Timing Belt, bottom Timing Belt cover, Crank Pulley, Starter Motor and the Alternator. Tomorrow a day doing the new split loom. Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thought id update this. There has been a little delay. I decided to get ahold of the tees that go with the split loom and have had to wait for them. They are now here and I have startrd. While I was waiting I managed to get all the other little bits sorted and got the manifold insulator machined. I also got my earls today. Split Loom Tees Wiring taking shape Manifold Insulator Earls Fittings More soon Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm getting so excited now should only be a few days. I had a break from wiring looms today I will finish them tomorrow and installed the manifold/throttle body, distributor, a few other bits and some samco. Only one photo today. Please excuse the sheet youll see under it in good time. lol Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I didnt do the wiring loom today, I cound not be bothered. I did however get the air filter bracket made, made some new earths and fitted a new drivers side weather strip, passanger side tomorrow. I forgot to say yesterday that I fitted a new scuttle panel and with the weather strip it makes a real difference. I have new indicators for both sides to go on aswell. I will be replacing both headlights in the summer and when I do they will be the toyota clear ones. Also I have forgotton to say for weeks now I have replicated the rubber diped ends on some brackers, it had to come off for painting and it was peeling anyway. I used black Plasti Dip Earths Weather Strip Scuttle Panel Plasti Dip And from the recent snow. Shes standard on the out side but that is going to chance soon too. Spot me at the back. lol Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yesterday I finished the wiring loom and today I made new starter and alternator cables, made my first earls hose and installed it, installed the radiator and expansion bottle along with a bit of Samco. Getting very close now. Gavin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am very happy to say that yesterday after building up oil pressure she started on the first turn of the key. Needless to say im over the moon. I did the ignition timing and took her out and everything seems ok, no leaks. Time for the good bit, photos... Photos are now in the first post. This update ends the engine phase of this build stay tuned tho because in the summer there is more to come. Gavin
  17. Some of you might of noticed that my old build thread and I disappeared a couple of weeks ago and I would like to explain. The day after I posted the finished engine bay on here I caught a couple of scum bags around my car. I did not know if they had seen it online or not but just to be sure I removed everything about my car from the net, not only this website. Anyway my paranoia has subsided and im back. I can resurrect my old thread with absolute accuracy because I drafted what I posted in Word first so I still have a copy of it. Old photo for reference How the engine stands now There will be updates about the bodywork soon. Thanks To Everyone Gavin
  18. Yeah so true if they want it they WILL have it. You just got to make it as hard to steel as you can. Thanks everyone Gavin
  19. Tell me about it mate. Cant stand em. Nice one mate thanks Gavin
  20. Some of you might of noticed that my threads and I disappeared a couple of weeks ago and I would like to explain. The day after I posted the finished engine bay on here I caught a couple of scum bags around my car. I did not know if they had seen it online or not but just to be sure I removed everything about my car from the net, not only this website. Anyway my paranoia has subsided and im back. Gavin
  21. Totally agree with everything. I dont have it in me to make thousands of the things or ever hundreds but the market needs a few more! From uber rare to rare is all that is needed in my option. Gavin
  22. I think your making it sound worse than we did tbh. And Id do it myself im almost an expert with fibreglass. Gavin
  23. That was harsh. A bit to blunt. You wanna hope I dont get ahold of one cuz it wont be rare for long. Gavin
  24. Paint work looks stunning. Good work! I hope you get the idle problem sorted soon. Gavin
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