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My Glanza currently has a Pioneer Carozerria or something headunit which I prosume is externally amped as it has an amp under the passenger seat with the same brand, it seems a decent enough unit but a couple of things are making me wanna change to my sony single DIN unit with an amp built in, is it just a case of buying an ISO lead like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-17-4-Toyota-...=item2314c1208a As the description says something about it only being for externally amped systems? Or is it more difficult and i'll need to rewire everything?

I've picked up a thermo from the motor factors today as the temp gauge is still a bit slow and fluctuating....also the heaters arent red hot so i'm gonna flush the matrix at the same time... The new thermo is the 82oC stamped one, if my current one is 76oC will changing to the 82 one cause any problems?

Ah really...i dunno if the stuff im using is genuine 3m schutz but deffo that type of thing and the bodyshop im doing it at said its good stuff. and yeah my cars pretty clean looking underneath...only bit of bare metal is the sill jacking points, is it worth doing them? If so ill grind them a little.,,and put a bit of paint on before sealing it?

i've done the oil mate, used 5w 40 fully synth. Its the underseal im worried about, surely if i pressure wash it the day before it will dry before i do it? And i'm wanting a bit more of like a permanent coating than waxoyl, that and i've never liked waxoyl myself for many reasons, you end up wiping off as much as you've put on if you work on the car a lot, and its highly flammable :/

What light mate? sorry i'm really new to all this. N ah so have you turned it all down then? Is there any guides for porting them or do i have to get it done pro? Cheers for the help

Thats what I hoped, but as you see some people say it will i'm a bit worried as I don't understand it all yet lol, I did read the guide I think if its the 200bhp on stock engine one? When should I think of upping the boost etc and how do you do this safely? Cheers I've got a crappy cone filter on atm and the restriction removed and mine seems okay, apart from that completely standard though. I've just been given a Greddy boost gauge but all i've got is the gauge and not the loom or sensor or whatever so need to try get one of them or a working gauge. You run yours at 0.3 bar?Thats low aint it? And pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean do the mani and turbo? as I don'tmind fiddling with stuff haha, just don't wanna blow anything. Gonna flush out my heater matrix sometime as the heaters arent as hot as i'd hoped

I've got a standard Glanza and i'm about to start modding it, the first thing I've done is swap the pipes to remove the boost restriction in 1st and 2nd, which has made it a lot more fun to drive. Next I want to get a decent exhaust and filter, but a mate has told me this will probably make me hit fuel cut, is this true, and if so, how to i stop this and have it all running perfect but safely as well? Cheers

Anyone recommend a decent product? Thanks

Yeah i'm gonna have to mask some areas up and clean others with panel wipe after but i would rather get into all the areas with the gun. And yeah well my plan is to jetwash the underneath the day before....then take it to the garage and further clean it with some soap and a brush and cloth, then dry and wipe down with panel wipe....then heat gun, leasve a while and heat gun again before starting? My only dilemma is my mechanic says he has some schutz type underbody seal, and said i should use that rather than the hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl as the waxoyl means it will never really dry whereas his does dry eventually, but will this mean it will crack and cause rust to develop even though my car is clean underneath with no signs of rust at present?

             YEAH THATS WHAT I'VE DONE...SHOULD I TURN IT DOWN SOME MORE?  N AH REALLY? IT DOES SOUND LIKE THAT COULD BE THE ISSUE WITH IT GOING AFTER TEN MINS OR SO? HOW DID YOU SOLVE IT AS I DONT WANNA LEAVE THE CAR UNALARMED EVEN THOUGH ITS BLOCKED IN? CHEERS(EXCUSE THE CAPS MY PHONE DOESN'T LIKE THIS SITE LOL)

             YEAH THATS WHAT I'VE DONE...SHOULD I TURN IT DOWN SOME MORE?  N AH REALLY? IT DOES SOUND LIKE THAT COULD BE THE ISSUE WITH IT GOING AFTER TEN MINS OR SO? HOW DID YOU SOLVE IT AS I DONT WANNA LEAVE THE CAR UNALARMED EVEN THOUGH ITS BLOCKED IN? CHEERS(EXCUSE THE CAPS MY PHONE DOESN'T LIKE THIS SITE LOL)

I've got a viper alarm with the ultrasonic sensors at the top of the a-pillar, and it seems about ten mins after i get home at night and arm the alarm, it will sound...and keep sounding about 3 times when i go out and disarm and re-arm....but then after fiddling with the sensors or something it will stop....until the next night at home...when i unlock it and check the LED its telling me its the ultrasonics that are triggered. I've positioned them so they aim at the top centre of the rear windscreen, and on the alarm theres a setting to adjust the sensitivity of the ultrasonics with the remote, defailt was 10 out of 20, i have turned them down to 8 out of 20. Can anyone diagnose the problem or suggest if I should turn the sensors down a bit more? How much isturning them down too much? Thanks

Cool mate i'll get one tomorrow if I can, could you tell me what to ask for when i ring the factors? Someone said on here to ask for a corolla 4efe one but i dunno?

ill probs go for the 10 40 then...although i originally meant 5 40 not 5 50 in my first post....is semi or fully synth best? And ah i see...Ill probs go for that then or some schutz spray on version? My mechanic has said i can use the ramp and his gun etc so will it be okay to do it in a few weeks inside a garage?

luke....ah really...how come its just gone a bit mental and not stuck open or closed? Is that common? N ah thats cheap...ill get one from my motor factors then...what do i ask for as obv i doubt they'll have the glanzas reg number down? Mech...how will i know if it is 76c? One thing ive noticed is its a bit indecisive like if i leave it parked it stays just under half....if i drive along then straight after off boost it will go back to cold? I heard most cars either stay just under half or fluctuate just above half in traffic and just under when driving?

I FIND IF I LEAVE MY CAR TO WARM UP FOR SAY 10 MINS IN A MORNING AND THEN DRIVE OFF BOOST FOR A FURTHER TEN MINS THE GAUGE IS STILL NEAR COLD.....HOWEVER MY MECHANIC SAYS HE DOESNT THINK ITS THE THERMOSTAT AS IF ITS LEFT RUNNING FORA WHILE WITH NO HEATER ON IT DOES RISE TO APPROX HALFWAY....IS THIS NORMAL OR IS IT THE USUAL STAT PROBLEM OR WHAT?by the way SORRY FOR CAPS ITS MY PHONE, CHEERS

Ah really? I thought fully synth was better on an FI engine, but I will listen to the more knowledgable haha, iirc 10-40 is thicker when cold but the same when warm as 5w-40? As long as the 10-40 is fine i'll use that? Is it vital I get the most expensive brand or is the decent ranged comma stuff any good?I've used synerg fully synth in my old car? As for the underseal, that what I was thinking of doing, is it easy to get all the dust and muck off with degreaser or panel wipe? and is that the hammerite underbody seal with added waxoyl?Im a bit reluctant about the fact it never dries and can crack but I dunno if there is anything better? Maybe schultz

First of all, could anyone tell me what oil is best to use in a Glanza V? I was thinking of 5w-50 Fully Synthetic but not too sure? Also, Is there a good method to undersealing or what products to use, for example Underbody Seal, WaxOyl, Upol Gravitex stonechip, etc? Would it just be a case of cleaning and degreasing the underside(car was recently imported and hasnt seen much wet weather since), then drying out with a heat gun in a garage and spraying the profduct on? Thanks