chriswoodfto

hey, were is it and how easy iis it to chnage? cheers,

sweet mate, im in north yorkshire, and gota agree the roads wont take hard coilovers, i had em on my colt and it was slower round corners than with standrad shocks and lowering springs, it just used to skip over the bumps with the coilies. pics plz......

ahh cool, cool. were are the plugs then to fit the harness? near the ecu? which turbo timer is it youve got raffi? id like to get the one thats the easiest....lol

lol. cool, like i say no rush mate, i got paid today, woooooop wooooooop!!!!! that shud see me through at least the next... few days. lol.

looks good mate, no probs bowt the cash, wenever your ready bud. (just not 4eva )

hey, looking at a turbo timer, (blitz one) how easy are they to fit with the correct wiring harness? is it just a case of plugging plugs into the harness or are wires still gona have to be cut etc... cheers guys,

ooo, might do that then, is there a how to on it? also, im guessing itll go back on easy, by taht i meen no wiring etc will need to be cut, just incase i ever sell the car. what rubber pipes do i need to buy to relocate the filter? and how do you block it off at the end it usually runs from? the filter pipe i meen.

how come its worth doing?benefits? is the air cold enough without the ac in? my fto was absolutly unbarable last year with no aircon..

very off topic, but micky can u get a buggy int boot with the strut in? lol.

nice job micky, does the ac have to come out to relocate the air filter down there?

as above ^^^ a filters like 2-4 quid anyway, and takes about 1min to change, just to let you know when you think its all drianed, wait abit longer because my road is covered in oil, haha.

changed my oil yesterday, 4l tub, have a little bit left over. just fill abit at a time, easier to put more in than drain it out,

for any one in the future, the diameter of the pipe is 10mm, diameter of the hole throguht he middle is 6mm, (vac hose)

your other harness is in the post mate, should have it in the morning.

ill go measure it tomorow, lol.

just saw ep91 on someone elses post, so clicked that as its a ep91. didnt realise it was members ride bit. told... thanks any ways guys, ill order some 8mm then. cheers.

yea its the thiner pipe of the two, goes into the top of my blitz bov not the big fat one at the bottom, mines fooked so wana order a new one, after the diameter of the pipe not lenth. cheers.

dont think itll neccasrilly affect it too much, but when toyota built the car they obveously put that rubber seal there for a reason so id like to adapt it to fit the rx7 jobbie.

when i put my rx7 on, my boost went from 0.8 to 0.88 bar straight away, with out hsaving the air flow right yet. i just need a little bit longer rubber hose first to sit the i.c straight then im gona have a go at adapting the origional rubber seal tio fit the rx7 one.

you wana keep it on the standard as that channels the air straight onto and through the tmic. ive gota rx7 on mine, im gona do a step by step soon on modding the rubber seal so it fits the rx7 one nicely, keep your eyes open for the post.

awsum, thank you, ill give that a go on monday, cheers guys,.

Either way id stay clear, do it cheap do it twice 'springs' to mind

here you go dude, the post from sticky section on gtturbo site.. all i would add to that is the last section on the fcd. i had a big discussion on here about them, yeah its better to have one than not, but to be 110% sure its fueling correctly you need to upgrade to a ecu, emanage blue etc, its abit more to fork out for it but like i said before, be alot cheaper to buy that than rebuild a knakerd engine. So, you're hankering after some more power out of your EP eh? Here's a quick guide on what you need to do... Service the car Before you even consider buying any upgrades for your car, when was it last serviced? When was the timing belt changed? If you don't know, do it. It is fruitless spending money on upgrading parts and gleaning more power out of the 4E if your oil is like treacle and your timing belt is like the elastic in your favourite and well worn pair of shitcatchers. I'm sure you wouldn't want to run a marathon eating only dried bread and wearing a Borat Mankini, so your EP won't appreciate being asked to bang out ~30% above stock power on some shitty old oil and filters and a knackered timing belt. - Ok, so you've serviced the car. What's next? Look at your suspension and brakes? Are they standard? Yes? Upgrade them. It is pointless having a blisteringly quick EP if it can't stop or go round corners. Not only is it embarrassing when your car dives off the road to chase hedgehogs, it is also dangerous and life threatening both for you, your passengers and other road users. Further guides on the basics of suspension and brake upgrades will be posted shortly. - Car serviced and handling/braking mods fitted? Excellent, now the fun begins. Now that your EP is running nicely and actually goes round corners and stops, it's time to start releasing some of the potential out of the 4E. Despite the fact the 4E is essentially a Singer sewing machine with a Barbie hairdryer strapped to it, it is quite a potent little 4-banger. That combined with the EP's kitkat wrapper weight makes for a spicey little package. The stock CT9 turbo on the GT Turbo and Glanza can be ran at 1.0 bar (14.5psi) all day long and, with the following supporting mods, will see 170-180bhp at the flywheel. Much more than 1 bar and the little CT9 starts to struggle and runs out of puff. An increase from 0.8 bar to 1.0 bar might see you gain 20 or so bhp, but an increase from 1.0 bar to 1.2 will not see a similar gain. This is because the CT9 is being run well beyond it's efficiency envelope and starts to just blow hotter and hotter air, which is not good. Anyway, I'm sure you're all itching to get modding, so here's what you need. Full exhaust system - 2.25" is recommended, although I run 2.5" with no issues. De-cat pipe - Keep the Cat, you'll need it for MOT time. More on this later. Exhaust Manifold - The stock one has a restriction in runner #3 that will cause you all manner of ball and wallet ache if ignored. This recent topic goes into a little detail on why. Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) - Absolute minimum requirement to control your fueling. Running lean is bad. Very bad. SARD is the popular choice. Adjustable actuator set to 1 bar (14.5psi) - Used to control the boost levels. HKS is the popular choice. Plugs and leads - If you've not changed them yet, get some. I use NGK Iridium (Heat range 7) plugs and Magnecor 8.5mm leads (red), although having broken two sets, I'd avoid as they're a bit shit. Intercooler - Whether you opt for Front mount (FMIC) or top mount (TMIC) is personally preference. FMIC is more and generally more expensive, although it is better at cooling and less prone to heat soak. RX7 top mounts are popular for those opting for TMIC's. Fuel Cut Defender - You will also need to fit a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) to bypass the stock ECU's fuel cut level to enable boosting to 1 bar. This should only be fitted once the rest of the fueling and support mods are on and ready to set up! (Thanks to lingl9z for the reminder on this, I knew I had forgotten something! ) It is also recommended to change the fuel pump as the stock ones can be tired. The Walboro 255lph is the popular choice. I would also recommend purchasing some gauges to keep an eye on things. Boost, oil temp, oil pressure and water temps would be the best to have to keep an eye on the essentials. Other additional mods can be used such as boost controllers, management and additional electronic trickery to make best use of the mods above, although they aren't essentials and are just preferential items. That's about it. You should now have a Starlet that handles and stops reasonably well and surprises a good number of larger and more powerful cars. Just be sensible with it and drive carefully!

theres a thread on gtturbo site about it, ill try find u it and post it up mate.

its gota apexi boost controller on mine, was boosting to 0.83- no fuel cut, changed the tmic to a rx7 tmic and it boosts 0.88 now, still no fuel cut. ive got everything to up boost now but the ecu. to be honest mate id sort the other bits before you up the boost to much, its allright putting a fcd on it and upping the boost, but if it does fry summit itll be a lot bigger bill than getting the other bits together 1st.