Keri-WMS

I'll bung you a PM in a sec! Yep - see:

The later ones are worth waiting for, like the Subaru!

http://www.intapart.com/default.asp?contentID=632 < I love these guys, epic scrappery! Not cheap though I don't think? THREE Starlets being broken at the moment!

All with the same pads: - A 4-pot 275mm setup will be better from cold than a Levin twin-pot slider setup - ...and also better than the standard GT setup. To put it another way: - With standard pads/260mm discs in my MR2 I couldn't lock the wheels, hot or cold. - With EBC Reds/260mm discs in my MR2 I couldn't lock the wheels easily when cold, better when hot. - With EBC Reds/277mm discs/WMS calipers in my MR2 I COULD lock the wheels from cold, and very easily when hot. What he said!

That's down to pad choice - there's a far wider range of pads for the WMS calipers than for the Toyota calipers. EBC Reds don't need much/any heat, the Ferodo DS2500 is also a fast road pad so should be fine from cold. Also with the larger discs there's a tab more leverage there over the twin-pots etc(hot or cold). The WMS T20 with our kits has been matched to the original Starlet calipers, so the ABS sees the same "load" and can react as normal - so yes WMS kits are fully WBS compatible (and don't mess up the car's front/rear bias).

All boxed up and booked to ship out Monday (Earls sent me the lines at last) - means I have to get into work on time for once! Sadly not - the discs I'm playing with this afternoon will need 16" wheels for most people (or the odd motorsport 15"). Alloy bells for the 275mm kits are getting a lot closer though...just need to get them as good as they can be off the bat.

Here's a better shot showing how much heat shield can be retained with the 275/277 kits:

The basic idea is the more pistons there are behind the pad, the more evenly the force is spread onto the pad. It makes a difference, but the law of diminishing returns applies - once you get away from sliding calipers the improvements get smaller and smaller as the cost goes up. The caliper stiffness is the next big thing that can be improved once you have an opposed 4/6 pot design, normally via a caliper milled from one solid peice of material called a "monoblock". These are VERY VERY expsive to make, but the WMS "Monobridge" T30x goes a long way towards the stiffness of a monobloc but wit

You can keep the dust shields with the WMS 275+277mm kits, you just need to get the tin snips out and trim off the parts that get in the way, then "tap" any other bits of the shield (just by 1-2mm) if they are just touching the disc. Here's how I did the one on the dummy-build: Also a 4-pot caliper is always going to be better than a 1 or 2 pot sliding caliper, because the slight (or heavy!) friction in the Toyota caliper slider means you'll always have one pad hotter than the other, putting uneven thermal loading on the disc and making it more likely to warp. The hotter pad will also fade

I'm holding a new prototype WMS Starlet product in my hand at the moment! This one requires removing the dust shield (if it hasn't rusted like most do)..... Oh, and WMS and Wilwood calipers are 4-pots not twin-pots like the Levin ones etc.

Fk me. That's impressive!

1- Pull the handbrake on. 2- Release it. 3- If it sticks see if the inner cable is tight (under tension like a guitar string) at the caliper end. If it's tight then the cable/s are sticking (are there three like other Toyotas have? In a Y?) If it's loose but the levers are still locked on then it's the calipers.

Here you go: 1. It's the part that the hole in the middle of the disc goes over. Some hubs are 54mm all the way, later cars have a 55mm step at the bottom. 2. I'm afraid they won't, you'll need the WMS-spec Earls ones. Hope that helps!

Oops (yep), I'll get back to you now!

That's not ideal! 15" wheels make life so much easier.. ;)

PM sent. We can supply just the calipers etc - the trouble is that the calipers run into the hub's lugs at any disc size under 260mm-ish. In fact the 262.5mm kit pushes it's luck and might need the hub's lugs to be smoothed if it's lumpier than the one I've got here! Would wheel spacers help with your particular alloys?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/formula_one/13743194.stm ;)

No problem! Let us know how you get on...

Thanks for the support Geo, that's an understatement... Also cheers for the your patience lads, much appreciated!!!!! Right then, here we go: Fixed it, here you go guys: (Beta/proposed kit) smallest possible 262.5mm kit profile, accurate to about 1.0mm: 262.5mm WMS kit PDF Hi Rich, are they? Shouldn't be - which bits? That's the offset you mean? The 275x22 kit is of course 3mm thinner than the 277x25 which helps! Failing that it's wheel spacers to the rescue, we've got very nice 2mm ones cut from 6082 T6 plate if needed. Does that make sense? It's possible, but only a few

Ahhhhhh, but then if no one let me re-post I'd never get to say anything!!!

I love this whole project!!!

Plain discs get my vote. EBC Reds are a good starting point, Yellows are better for more powerful cars/track etc. Then you go up a bit in price to Ferodo (DS2500 and DS3000), Mintex and the like. Then there's Pagid, Performance Friction, Carbotech etc etc. Of course starting with the Toyota caliper doesn't help, a nice set of 4-pots really shifts the odds in your favour! (cheap pads/discs too) We only supply grooves if the customer is very keen, or a car happens to have really squealy brakes - the grooves break up the resonance a bit which helps.

Did you get to the bottom of this in the end? Do you mean one line/starlet takes a larger thread size to another? (M 8 and M10 ....or M10 and M12 maybe?) First I've heard of this if so.....on any Toyota in fact. --------------------------------- I can't say M 8 without a space, the forum changes it to "mate"! Argh!

We don't normally do group buys (the volume doesn't really help us), but I might be able to sort out a deal... We've got a batch of calipers inbound at the moment, so should have some kits available in a few days.