Keri-WMS

We have a custom disc service - if somone would send as the old discs to work from!

(EDIT - assuming this is the 3G rotor!?)

Hi, emailing you now (same bean I assume!) - I didn't get a notification email for the reply on this thread for some reason...!

The advantage of our 110% discs over every other OEM fit disc I've seen is the extra thermal mass, physical stiffness and cooling rate from the larger casting - this means for the same energy input you get a lower tempurature (this applies no matter what pads you use, how you drive or if the discs are grooved or not).

Worth noting that standard calipers are pulled away from the wheel under braking whereas 4-pots flex towards the wheel (not by much or course!!!!).

BUT - a standard sliding caliper with old pads will be further from the wheel, the time to REALLY check is when fitting new pads!

Ouch! We normally reckon on a (measured) 2mm being the safe minimum assuming the wheel bearings are ok etc - how close were yours before they touched if you happen to know?

The two main changes are the outer half of the caliper moving closer to the spokes due to flex when you stand on the pedal (can be tested with the car at-rest), the main thing that expands with heat is the disc itself - as long as it's got room in the caliper to do that it won't be an issue.

That's fair enough to be honest it was 4+ years ago I got mine from you and everything was bang on the money the d2s are nice and bells and rotors are great but they do come with a small bag of spacing washers to dial in the caliper placement and although only a 2 min job I prefered the fitment of fitting yours.

The devil's in the details, we spend AGES getting everything spot on. The trouble with a "tweek it yourself" kit is it doesn't cover things like disc thermal expansion. A 300mm disc at 20'c becomes roughly a 301.5mm disc at 500'c, so you need to make sure there's room inside the caliper for that increase!

We don't PLAN to make them in batches.....what happens every now and then is we run out, then when we get more in they sell out straight away!

We're getting better at having the kits in stock most of the time though.

We're planning to add alloy bells/rotors this year as an option, which adds a bit more visual bling (and saves weight )

Our kits are race bred at heart, most of our customers are trackday guys though as they are far more common than actual race cars.

That said, there's a chap who races his Starlet with our brakes in the TinTop series (his arch enemy is a Tomcat Turbo!), and another customer won the Dunlop TVR Chalenge with our brakes a couple of year back.

Oh and there's an MR2 Turbo with our brakes front and rear in the Nippon Challenge too!

Is that an E111 shape?

You mean the bolt that fixes the carrier to the strut? M12 fine pitch - TBH the best bet for all the bolts would be your local Toyota parts dpt I expect.

Nope.

EBC Green (slow) fast road.

EBC Red (200bhp+) fast road/trackday

EBC Yellow extreme fast road/trackday/race

EBC Blue endurance race

EBC Orange funny new race/trackday compound

...in that order....

Or DS2500? ;)

If you're sticking with EBC I'd go for Red, Green is fast road for lower power cars, Red is 200+bhp fast road.

I never managed to borrow the right calipers - might be my own fault, was a while back!

If anyone has the right caliper/pads/carrier that I can borrow I can get on with the discs....?

PM sent.

If people are keen on the dimples (instead of / as well as grooves, but not drilled!) then we could do the WMS 110% discs in that form?

Even in plain form they have a 10% thicker casting than any OEM disc, even Pagid discs are "standard", plus we supply DS2500/DS3000 pads.

I can't see a way to get better performance short of bigger/4-pot brakes really?

We've got the EP91-type WMS 110% heavy duty front discs on the shelf in plan and grooved if that's any help!

Grooves are more of a personal preference these days as modern pads are better at resisting glazing and gassing....

We've started doing more of these as people have asked for them, so I thought I better put up a thread! We can make them for other cars too, just ask.

Advantages over the cheap rubbish you see:

- Cut from 6082 T6 aluminium plate so far higher accuracy and strength than the (cast, and from what...?!!) common ones.

- 4x100 holes (only) to maximise wheel contact area.

- 55mm clearance hole, so a nice fit on the hub to keep the spacer concentric and eliminate vibration.

- Any thickness you like. Thicker ones will of course mean you'll need to find longer wheel studs/bolts etc.

Prices are:

2mm = £19.20+vat/pr

3mm = £22.50+vat/pr

4mm = £25.82+vat/pr

5mm = £27.50+vat/pr

8mm = £34.70+vat/pr

(other thickness prices on application)

I don't think Ferodo DID the rear pads in DS2500 or DS3000? Just in the "DS" road going type pad?

If they had the rears in DS2500 I would have supplied them as an option to go with the WMS kits as we do far more DS2500 than any other pads these days.

We can probably supply DS2500 pads to suit.

This WAS in the braking section (slowing cars down) not breaking (cars in bits) but looks like it's been moved to the right place.

Braking not breaking!

The 110% stuff is discounted in our Jan sale, see the thread in the WMS section. :-)

We're having a Jan sale!!! See the thread in our section...

I've heard of the handbrake cable freezing - it's not the caliper itself that can freeze.