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Keri-WMS

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Posts posted by Keri-WMS

    wilwoods:)

    in Braking

    Posted

    So that's M12 into 10mm thick aluminium?




    Do you machine the uneven rear face of the caliper around the fluid port to get it to seal properly with the copper banjo washers and I assume you'll need to strip and clean/air blast the calipers to clear the swarf from re-tapping the fluid port out of the fluid channels?



    What did you machine the spigot rings for the discs out of?


    sjm motorsport starlet at brands today

    in I Spy, Have You Been Spotted?

    Posted

    Yup, that's Barney Davies (one of our customers, his car has a WMS 4P109 brake kit)! He raced in the project 8 saloons last year I think, this year he's racing in the BARC Cannons Tin Tops.



    I think he did ok........as he got the class win in both races (one was the overall win too), one pole, one fastest lap, first time out in a new series too! :D



    You can see him at the start (pole!), and then regaining the lead (on the brakes :p ) at about 8:00min here. The camera car is a Rover Tomcat Turbo.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiEh8aVHc3M



    See:


    https://www.flickr.com/photos/99229870@N04/10856856476/


    https://www.flickr.com/photos/99229870@N04/10856866045/



    Race Report here:


    http://www.barcsoutheast.co.uk/report13april14qmn.php



    Results and lap times here:


    http://www.barcsoutheast.co.uk/results/tintops120414.pdf


    lug nut turns but not coming out

    in Braking

    Posted

    They are a splined press fit into the hub flange. If you're lucky you might find that the stud has pushed out the back of the flange and that's why it's spinning and not tightening. Look at the back of the hub (wheel on is fine, I assume you can't get the wheel off?), and see if you can see the "head" of the back of the stud.



    If it's poking out then use a punch/hammer to get it back in, then undo the nut, and replace the stud.



    If the stud has stripped the splines and is spinning inside the hub flange then it's more of a pain!!! You'll really need to replace the hub, and the main thing is probably to not damage the wheel.



    I'd be tempted to get someone to tack weld the back of the stud to the hub and take the nut off, rather than fking about drilling/grinding out the nut and damaging the wheel.



    Photos! :D


    Rear Brakes

    in WMS Brakes

    Posted

    What would be the approximate cost Keri? Say a basic kit with cheapest discs, pads and uuprated calipers?

    It would be a similar cost to the front kits I'd say, but it depends how we go about it....

    The brakes don't appear to work as well because of the bias surely? i don't see the point in pissing around with it unless your going all out track car like flaminsam said with a Hydro handbrake and bias valve to put some more force to the rear etc. Would be interesting to see a kit tho curious to see how the bearing would be integrated into it.

    The bearing is the main stumbling block, there are a few ways round it but we've just not had a chance to work on it yet. :-/

    Hey, does someone have new infos about the rear break system?

    been lookin into rears myself think its one of those things that wont happen :(

    It will happen at some point, epecially now we have some limited in-house CNC prototyping etc

    Sorry guys, there are a heap of things we're working on a once for the Starlet, and not enough time at the moment. But the demand is there so we will be doing it as soon as we can.....

    Rear Brakes

    in WMS Brakes

    Posted

    Highspec do a rear kit with hand brake, you take the car there and they design them onto the car.

    I know this as I am having a set of 295mm vented rears with 2 pot calipers fitted on my dc2.

    People confuse me really... And why this hasn't been addressed with all these brake companies I do no know. When you dramatically increase the piston sizes on your front brakes it throws the rear bias out. Most people wouldn't even notice it but it's quite a major difference . When I fitted my 6 pots on my honda with 330x30mm discs the rear 242's became useless on track . My van can at the moment outstop my honda now..

    A few points I want to raise here:

    - WMS kits are designed to maintain the correct front > rear bias using correct choice of piston size to match the larger discs (although as you say, a lot of the cheap far eastern stuff is one-size-fits-all)

    - As you brought up highspec in the WMS thread it's only fair to share why we don't worry about competing too hard with them head > head:

    "Exhibits A, B and C", randomly grabbed off google, but don't take my word for it, there's plenty more out there if you search for their reputation:

    A - http://passionford.com/forum/general-car-related-discussion/377242-hi-spec-brakes-leaking-update.html

    B - http://www.nyssa.ltd.uk/Y10/wankers.shtml

    C - http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=27045&highlight=hispec&page=2

    ...it just seems some people are lucky with them and some aren't.

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