Revo

Sweet. I really like the balance you have achieved for a 4E you have pushed the power band location from around 6000rpm to 7000rpm with output to around 226 fhp on ... low boost. Will also be looking forward to a dyno at higher boost and torque showing how you increase or maintain power with the smaller housing.

Dyno looking good , wondering what exhaust housing you have - Sard 314, 414 or 514 ?

This is the sard I was thiking of - %E8%A3%BD%E5%93%81%E6%A1%88%E5%86%85'>http://www.sard.co.jp/after_eng/new/info.h...%A1%88%E5%86%85 I had a chipped board the owner said was leaning out when I bought it. I had bigger injectors than stock and had no problem with it. Once I hit what I thought was fuel cut but it turned out to be compressor surge stalling out the turbo. It sounds strange rev limit is not increased unless it is the auto one. Also what about the boost limit has it been raised? Do the sard ecu's use a special map sensor to go with the higher boost?

Some ecu's with daughter board are destroyed by sun light when you open them. I would do some research maybe ask Sard it should have some id on it also check if the seals are genuine and intact. Would try to be sure you sure hitting fuel cut and not leaning out but that shouldnt be fuel pump.

When do you hit positive psi?

Surf a little and look at some friction figures for semi vs full you will be amazed at the difference full makes at higher revs. Also while fully synthetic will cling really well and thinner aids quicker boost/reving when it comes to bearings impact resilience, thicker grades must be looked at.

It depends how much power you want to go for and if they flow 315cc at stock fuel pressure you could get more out of them with an fpr but some 315's flow less than the stock injectors at stock pressure I would avoid these.

This may help as a way to test how well your actuator is holding then replace it if it is too weak. Note - You should feel the diffrence straight away but make sure you watch your boost gauge and keep it safe don't over boost for your setup. Cheap actuator upgrade

For idle Check your pcv valve clean and blow in it ,should only blow one way. The old trick is to make an engine cut out switch by earthing the distributor so no one can steal the car , maybe one of your cables shorting out some how around the distributor, even cracks or a seal letting water in , Worth a check.

Standing makes a difference I have auto and turbo timer. 19mpg - with black smoke - city short trips , some hills and stop start boosting 24mpg - after adding a safc2 - city short trips , some hills and stop start boosting 39mpg - driving at 62- 68 mph - mostly express way , - 5psi ( off boost ) at 62mph ( overdrive ) & some 22psi around 68mph

Does any one know can you trim hks fcon fueling with a safc2 instead of using a Hks GCC ?

I found some after market had a smaller outlet hole and gave less power. In oz Ryco brand made in Israel worked fine.

I read a thread on the Australian starlet club that suggested sikaflexing to stiffen engine mounts. May be worth a search also found this DIY on mounts http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....pic=2055&hl Hope that helps

Unit size - 155mm wide x 50mm high LED Screen size - 55mm wide x 25mm high approx. ( visible portion of LED inside unit ) Outer window size - Curved top and bottom 30mm high either end , 42mm high at the centre regards Revo

Thanks guys impressive dynos, especially the way the top end is holding for so long. regards Rev