Revo

Sweet. I really like the balance you have achieved for a 4E you have pushed the power band location from around 6000rpm to 7000rpm with output to around 226 fhp on ... low boost. Will also be looking forward to a dyno at higher boost and torque showing how you increase or maintain power with the smaller housing.

Dyno looking good , wondering what exhaust housing you have - Sard 314, 414 or 514 ?

This is the sard I was thiking of - %E8%A3%BD%E5%93%81%E6%A1%88%E5%86%85'>http://www.sard.co.jp/after_eng/new/info.h...%A1%88%E5%86%85 I had a chipped board the owner said was leaning out when I bought it. I had bigger injectors than stock and had no problem with it. Once I hit what I thought was fuel cut but it turned out to be compressor surge stalling out the turbo. It sounds strange rev limit is not increased unless it is the auto one. Also what about the boost limit has it been raised? Do the sard ecu's use a special map sensor to go with the higher boost?

Some ecu's with daughter board are destroyed by sun light when you open them. I would do some research maybe ask Sard it should have some id on it also check if the seals are genuine and intact. Would try to be sure you sure hitting fuel cut and not leaning out but that shouldnt be fuel pump.

When do you hit positive psi?

Surf a little and look at some friction figures for semi vs full you will be amazed at the difference full makes at higher revs. Also while fully synthetic will cling really well and thinner aids quicker boost/reving when it comes to bearings impact resilience, thicker grades must be looked at.

It depends how much power you want to go for and if they flow 315cc at stock fuel pressure you could get more out of them with an fpr but some 315's flow less than the stock injectors at stock pressure I would avoid these.

This may help as a way to test how well your actuator is holding then replace it if it is too weak. Note - You should feel the diffrence straight away but make sure you watch your boost gauge and keep it safe don't over boost for your setup. Cheap actuator upgrade

For idle Check your pcv valve clean and blow in it ,should only blow one way. The old trick is to make an engine cut out switch by earthing the distributor so no one can steal the car , maybe one of your cables shorting out some how around the distributor, even cracks or a seal letting water in , Worth a check.

Standing makes a difference I have auto and turbo timer. 19mpg - with black smoke - city short trips , some hills and stop start boosting 24mpg - after adding a safc2 - city short trips , some hills and stop start boosting 39mpg - driving at 62- 68 mph - mostly express way , - 5psi ( off boost ) at 62mph ( overdrive ) & some 22psi around 68mph

Does any one know can you trim hks fcon fueling with a safc2 instead of using a Hks GCC ?

I found some after market had a smaller outlet hole and gave less power. In oz Ryco brand made in Israel worked fine.

I read a thread on the Australian starlet club that suggested sikaflexing to stiffen engine mounts. May be worth a search also found this DIY on mounts http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index....pic=2055&hl Hope that helps

Unit size - 155mm wide x 50mm high LED Screen size - 55mm wide x 25mm high approx. ( visible portion of LED inside unit ) Outer window size - Curved top and bottom 30mm high either end , 42mm high at the centre regards Revo

Thanks guys impressive dynos, especially the way the top end is holding for so long. regards Rev

Hi Enzo, I'm am looking forward to this, are there dyno results for your test cars yet ? or maybe you can say when they start to spool ? regards Rev

I have similar issue , idles up when compressor comes on, then idles down again straight away, rough when stationary, when compressor goes off slightly better then radiator fans come on and it gets worse , the whole car shakes. Can reduce shaking by putting car into neural ( auto transmission ) . The auto. electrician says there is no power on the idle up VSV idle up valve magnet and vacuum switch valve on the engine fire wall. Auto electrician says a wiring diagram for the AC amplifier thats under the dashboard inside the car that has wiring colours is what he needs, If anyone has a link

Then Enzo how is the low end torque say 1900-2200rpm on the TD12 compared to the ct9. This is for a road car i have a new standard manifold on order but its looking like I may have to change this to external gated. I am keen to check a dyno map if they are available yet. Many Thanks

Hi Enzo, Great news new Hybrids can be internal gated . I am curious how the more responsive works? I am after a hybrid with better response and say 180BHP ATW around 4000 rpm ideally. ( Would be good to have fairly early spooling currently my ct9 spools at 1700 RPM ) I see the Tf035 compressor is the same as the TD04 49mm dia So is the difference on the Turbine dia Tf035 vs TD04 ? Do you have the rpm figure for the Tf035 Boost threshold or suggestions best hybrid with lowest boost threshold ? Some posts say a smaller wheel dia. therfore ( weight ) may be needed for early spool and

Mine idles at 900 but drops 800-500 & shakes with A/C and when I turn the power steering. I have added an extra 50 RPM by using a Mazda top radiator hose that bends under the air intake rather than the standard one that heat soaks the intake. In Sydney things do get a little warm though. Regarding your question of long term effect I think one answer is going to be which oil you use and how it performs at idle.