The Toffinator

Hahaha yeh only now and again dude, but it does throw them out the back when its hot, And yeh i doubt it would do it without the heatwrap, epic stuff and still havent done the decat!

According to the KS Rom website specs, and everywhere else i have looked the fuelling is good for upto 1.3 bar even on a TD04 Or a big CT9 Hybrid, never heard of anybody needing a RRPFR on these ecus unless there going above that threshold, Its definetaly not running lean i know that for one thing! Will see what its like when i get it dynoed anyway, But its definetely richer than standard. And yeh true, theres a few other makes i have been looking at tbf, like this for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INNOVATE-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-3844-/300506017816?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D1328920106124024038%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D7%26 Yours should go well with a map broony! And yeh micky, i bet you never had time... Do you think its a better mani than the jperformance one? I got phil to weld mine today and its cured the blow for now, Made it drive a bit better! Proper loving 1Bar, As well as flames and the sound TT

Nope was relatively easy mate, just follow the A/C Condensor removal guide, easy enough, Will be easier on yours as it doesnt have the awkward A/C Pipes in the way! And yeh dude one is on the list, Wheres best place to buy them?

Few more updates, bit major this time Bought myself a KS-Rom ECU and got that fitted, along with removing the shitty aircon condenser. Car is now running 1bar and the difference is phenomenal, So much more power everywhere, especially at the bottom end, its pulling 0.3bar at 1900rpm!! Heres a few pics from fitting ECU, and removal of the condenser ^^^ECU^^^ Condenser removal, First gained access Then removed all neccesary bits, split the box and then pulled it out Completed, Note the temp sensor reattached into the box so the controls function properly! I Win! No more pipes in the bay Glad i got it out, also cleaned the pollen filters as they were MINGING, probably never ever been out. Blowers are 2x better now Also grabbed a few pics of the completed heatwrap Thanks for looking:) TT

I would swap, but i live 130miles away:(

Good:P And wow really? Not bad going that mate!

Yeh fair point shorty, think the second the seals are broken its a bit of a no no for people. And i asked him about EMU`s and he said he hasnt mapped them. Do you need the software to map one of these or is it a relatively simple thing to do? He does Apexi power fcs, all the standalones etc!

Yeh tbh micky i very much doubt i will do it, Only if i went bigger turbo etc, so i could have the ability to map it/ suit lots of mods. And yeh the differences beetween the lot power wise are very small, Its just the fine details you can alter at the end of the day. And nope, Mark hardy at Automark, Nipped through on friday to see him about it dude

Yeh i see what your saying, But the lad reckons as long as he can plug into it, the software he has he will supposedly be able to map it, Surely it wont cause damage if he were to plug it in and have a looksee? Or copy the data, then have a play with it after? Advantages of doing this i think is i wont have to travel miles and miles to get a piggyback mapped, which is essentially an ecu which just tricks the standard one? Bit cheaper as well i think. If its a simple procedure, why would it be a bad thing?

Dont know if this has been asked before, but been doing a little research and supposedly the Plug & Plays are just a stock ecu with a Glued in EPROM board, which is the part which holds the map and is remappable. On the same note, went to visit a tuner nearby me, and he mentioned that as far as he is aware the EPROM chips in these plug and plays are mappable, Hence how the japs used to map them depending on the setup. Do you reckon its worth getting him to have a look and see if he can map it? He seems pretty confident, only thing is then he will have to break the seal on the ecu:/

N/a ep90 or whatever you call it, you know its much better than that you knob!

Bump

Rad hoses will go hard buddy as the pressure increases. If its not drinking water and not spewing it out and not overheating it will be fine.

@Amjad and akyapotter, yeh there fantastic, will be getting them again! And Yeh micky i just pulled all the leads off and they all snapped easy as pie lol.

Dont listen to micky phil, Full of excuses that lad

Oooh think i spotted that mate, will PM him

Little update, heres how the cars looking now, white scoop is gone, tyres are fitted and Managed to spend a few hours removing some shit from the engine bay. Mainly the absolute shite D1 SPEC EARTHING KIT, Half the leads had come away dude to going brittle, and it was all fraying on the ends. Shite build quality is a typical chinese shit piece lol. Think it looks alot better, Bonnet will do until i can afford a front lip and a freshen up! And the best purchase for the car so far, These tyres are astounding, i thought the T1R`s where good, these make them look like budget shit. Car used to be useless in first gear, it now only has minor wheelspin with these on and it grips like fuck from a standstill! Handling has mucho improved, can go nearly as quick in the wet as i could in the dry with the T1R`s. Only thing i can even try and fault is they feel a little softer than the T1R`s, But its not bad and i think its a design reason and why they grip so well Thanks for looking!

As above, pm me if you have one!

Best way to run a catch can on the standard setup is bypass the PCV. I see a lot of people doing it like this, and as said above the PCV relies on a vacuum (Ie intake) To work, The only way you can run one and make it work is have a sealed 2 port catchcan, One pipe coming off into the catch can from the PCV valve, And the outlet going back to the standard port on the intake. This completes the vacuum, and the PCV works properly, Catch can catches shit. Route it like that and you should have no problems