greasemonkeyspb

yeah keep car stationary with handbrake put car in third or fourth use right foot heel and toe on brake and accelerator pedal at same time raise the revs and apply pressure on brake pedal and ease the foot off the clutch (left foot) if engine stalls then clutch not slipping bad but if it doesnt change the the clutch is fooked

yeah josh should be fine to drive but as said above try to not drive on boost as it will kill the clutch off fully lol generally when it slips it can last weeks on careful driving so if your careful you should be ok

Thanks buddy ;)

steve when i sdeadline for payment and tickets?? thanks mate ste

looks well nice dude

i should be ok for the saturday whens the deadline for letting people know?? cheeers steve

Right ok then lol dont jack up the car with handbrake on as you will need to take it off to remove caliper. leave car in gear. first of all there should be two bolts that hold the caliper itself to the carrier there may be a 12 or 13mm bolt head and then either it could be a 15mm or 17mm nut further in which you will have to hold with spanner while undoing the end nut. also crack off the brake pipe for the fluid as its easier to work against it when its bolted up just crack it off not undo fully. also de -attach the handbrake cable whilst its attached as once again its easier to do it this

im not in liverpool area mate but can give you some pointers on here if you would like???? steve

WOW thats cheap man!!! looks like a nice example though dude engine bay looks immaculate very nice car dude steve

went and collected de-cat pipe today great to meet luke pleasant lad and a really nice example of an sr happy with price and part cheers for the help matey

hahaha your too kind dude lmao yours is a nice example too man and will do think it will be on tomorrow night steve.

your best bet steve is to cut a groove or hole in where captive nut is at least the you can get to it to stop it spinning then either re weld a nut in or try drilling through and nut and bolting it i had same problem with a hyundai santa fe jeep at work and i had to cut a slit and apply pressure to it with a prybar to stop captive spinning then cut a hole out of the subframe to weld a new nut in place its a ball ache though so you are going to get angry with this mate unless you can get to it under the carpet inside the car the only way is above dude. hope thats helped even a bit dude. st

that is a wierd one mate its problem i think you need to experience to know where to look, sorry i couldnt be of more help mate if it develops post up and ill advise as best as i can matey ste

5w30 oil will be thin being fully synthetic so when really warm will be like water in a good clean engine this is ideal. 10w40 is like multigrade really its quite thick but thins down nice for good protection when hot ive always put 10w40 in my mates glanza and never had any porblems but as said above its all down to personal choice and condition of the engine mate

could be worth checking it out when does it mainly happen??? under accelleration and de-celleration?? and you say all the bushes are fine?? bottom arm bushes can make that noise when starved of grease

that is lucky at 50 lol then again still makes you jump when it happens dont it haha i remember at work i was driving a 206 and the driveshaft collapsed on me but as it came out it jammed against something underneath i tell you something i stopped quick :D never did find out what caused it jus a freak accident!!!!

and yeah im a mechanic too bud so anytime for advise send me a message ill be happy to help... my names steve by the way haha

also if your taking apart wouldnt hurt to change camblet water pump and tensioners whilst engine out of the car and also to change head gasket, and sump gasket if removing sump to access crankshaft and main bearings. at least main parts are fresh then. little things like oil strainers in the sump cleaned out and relief valves checked will also make huge difference on engine life expectancy. but all this depends upon the condition of the engine when stripped down matey.

i would say a strip down is needed to check condition the internet will provide you with autodata settings for lining up cambelt to top dead centre etc, tightening torques etc. im not sure if a haynes manual would be that intense to give details for an engine strip down. but i dont own a haynes manual so im not sure. piston rings and maybe shells are always a thing to bear in mind but the crank may need to be done too and also pistons changed. but this all depends upon the condition mate. but firstly strip it down and post some pics up of internals and i can advise you further dude greasem

vti alloys really set off ht en/a matey also e30 rims on the gt look pretty banging too ive always fancied some dished bbs wheels for my n/a but obviously budget dont allow lol had speedines instead hahahaha seriously though the other honda wheels look well smart on the gt too id be happy witha ny of them

Im glad you have mentioned that as i want my car vinyl wrapped after i have sorted bodywork dents lol might have to contact you haha no name doesnt ring a bell but my sister lives there im actually two mins from there i live in brownhills lol just cross the a5 from burntwood lol well close in fact man small world aint it

oh cool lol whereabouts??? im working tomorrow lol lots of cars need fixing lol stourbridge aint far from walsall i take it then??? lol im useless with distances hhahahahahhahahaa

walsall matey why is that??

no problem mate anytime

yeah damp is the worst thing for your leads dude ford focus suffer with the holes for the leads and the plugs filling up with water which cause heavy missfires lol i know its different car but same thing applies to any ht leads