Turbo Goose

Interested in wideband and clutch pm coming

Ok cool, how do you know which is which? They look practically identical

Hi guys, My gasket set has come with 2 different types of stem seals. They look nearly identical but 8 are shiney, 8 are not. Are there a set for exhaust valves and a set for inlet? Thanks peeps Plus 8 were in there own bag and 8 were loose in the bag with all other gaskets

thanks for the help guys. Think ill just leave bearings off the shopping list from america and get the machine shop to source them. Going to order 74.5mm pistons right now!

Not sure what size bits to order yet though as they are coming from america so dont want to get it wrong! Suppose first thing to do is take my parts to machine shop and see if i will need oversized parts

Doesnt a normal hex socket work?

Pmd

Heres a couple of links if you had searched here first http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/81240-m666-jap-anyone-know-any-history/ http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/87340-glanza-or-gt-25k-to-spend/ http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/76041-glanza-price-up/

Thats a tongs aint it?? Cheap as fook

Oooooooosch!

Try js performance in lincoln. Spoke to the guy at trax, do a full hose kit and cheaper than roose apparently. Think the guy used to be in partnership with roose

I had tein coilies hated them, rock hard. Got trd shocks and springs now and wont go back! If you are using your car everyday and you want to sacrifice your spine and your wallet, go for coilovers If you use everyday and want to keep your spine and your wallet, get shocks and springs

1.1 dude

My knock sensor did the same past 3k rpm. Unplug the knock sensor and unplug plug 2 i think on the ecu (check the pin out diagram for the pin to go on) Grab a multimeter, set to ohms and get a mate to hold one probe on the knock sensor plug and you hold the other probe on the correct pin ( i had to pop a bit of wire into the pin as the multimeter probe was too fat) should show good continuity Also check the screen by using multimeter. Set to ohms, cut a tiny tiny bit of the screen insulation off near the knock sensor to get your meter probe on there or there might be some screen braiding on show near the sensor. Then put the other meter probe on the neg of the battery. Should be continuity.

Item For Sale: TF035 turbo off my glanza Item Condition & Description: Very good condition, a little play in the shaft as to be expected. Ran absolutely perfect with no smoke on or off boost. Rotated ready for starlet and welded for external wastegate use Ran this turbo on standard engine at 229bhp with full boost at 3.1k rpm. Pretty awesome! Price: £90 Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: £5 via DPD

Cranks within tolerances as well but its got marks on it but reckon ill get away with a polish hopefully!

Hi guys I'm currently building a forged engine and unsure whether to get machine work done first or buy pistons/rods/beaeings first Thing is I dont know whether it needs a rebore or not. Cylinders are well within tolerance but are a bit marked up so not sure if i will need to buy 74 or 74.5mm pistons. Also not sure if the crank needs a grind, it hasnt spun a bearing or anything but a little marked. Do machine shops match the cylinders to the pistons oe simply rebore to 74.5mm if thats the size im getting. Same with shells do they need them first or just see if it needs a grind and do the crank 0.25 undersized? Hope that makes sense. So basically do i juat order oversized pistons and shells and get machine work to match. Or risk buying standard size and just get a hone/ crank polish What did you guys do?

Thats cool mate no worries

Taps we got at work are top notch, the bolts would hold and would do with a bit of locktite but i just didnt feel safe with bolts up there upside down with all that oil thats all. Would make me uneasy lol

Yes mate

Colin, i drilled out the original rivets. Then drilled a hole and tapped a couple but due to the nature of the alloy is tapped crap and bolts were loose on the threads. Could have tried riveting but theres nothing for the rivet to pull up to, like when you rivet a plate for example, would only be held by the force of the rivet against the sides of the drilled hole. just did a spot of weld in each hole

I had to drill off the baffle and there was loads of shot in there left from the shot blast! You have to have it welded back on mind, I wouldnt trust tapping out the holes and putting bolts on, can you imagine if one came loose

Postage is about 6 quid so cant do it for a tenner! I thought 20 delivered was a bargain

I personally always try to avoid sending parcels abroad. I did it with my jam ecu and blitz dump valve, had no issues but always feel sketchy sending £100s worth of stuff half way across the world. If it was say 30 quids worth id probably risk it but your coilies are worth a fair few bob so id hold out and wait for a uk buyer even if its a few quid less dan

Think a fair few have had success with these turbos tbh. Theres been a couple stories on fb about 1 or 2 not lasting long but suppose is 9/10 going to be fine. Id also imagine getting a CT9 hybrided by a turbo company is going to be bloody expensive compared to buying one off the shelf