Turbo Goose

I stand corrected

not 100% but im sure the SR's were 15mm lower

Got 1 now bud!

Someone from malta on fb says he is opening a new, bigger shop

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Idrees is having a similar problem at 5k rpm, his may be a bit different but a bit coincidental that they both happen at 5k

Previous owner had it taken apart and 'rewelded'. The welds looked pretty but they must not have had enough heat on or something as they hadnt penetrated so were essentially just sat on top of the metal. I presumed this voids the warranty plus i wasnt the original purchaser from wepr

well its off ebay but part numbers same as toyota one? markings also the same. I'll say its a patterned part just to be safe

Not updates in a while so here's some bits I've been doing First off I bought a WEPR TD04 kit from a lad on here. It's been a right ball ache as there was a total of 6 cracks / holes in the most awkward places on the manifold. So its been the welders at work 4 times!! And I mean awkward, right in the crevices where theres like 5mm gap so tig welding is nearly impossible. Here's when I bought it I got rid of the original screamer and wastegate relocation pipe after they had been shot blasted. (2 on the right) Here is the screamer pipe I had made, the welders and pipe fitters at work are amazing Here's the stage I am at now while the manifold is back with the welders (joke) Fitted Celica single pots and machines astra discs I also had done at work. > 1mm gap, thats tight! Also bought some service bits for when it gets mapped at race tech again Other bits Ive done is get rid of engine management light as there was a break in the knock sensor cable. Sort out the fuel light being continuously on. Fitted TRD shocks and lowering springs to replace the knackered Tein Coilovers

up

I just pull mine up a few inches and works just as good. *waits*

I had my starlet 3 yeats before i realised the aerial pushed in. Trust me mate, push down your aerial it goes down the pillar

Think thats sold

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Polo 6n are bit better fit that the golfs i believe

Reckon i found some that fit. A lot of older toyotas with 4 bolt strut tops have interchangable mounts these are good pri e as well http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111321775419?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Hi guys, can anyone tell me where i can get standard strut top mounts or new bearings as mine are a bit wobbly. Part number for toyota if pos Thanks, dan

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Cc

Think stainless depends on nickel content if it rusts or not. For instance most knives and forks are 18-0 stainless which is low grade and rusts.

Hi guys, ive got some single pot celica calipers and wondering what the difference is between the twin pot and single pot pads as theres lots on ebay but not sure which ones to buy

sounds like overfueling. did you have a fuel cut defender or anything installed before? i had an fcd installed and then sires were not put back correctly so i basically had a wire missing from the ecu causing massive overfueing by 40%. during this time it would be a bit sluggish to about 5k then get a kick up the arse. plenty of black smoke on boost as well

The setup is second hand. That pipe has been modified and rewelded by someone. The original welds on mani are excellent although a couple have been redone ok ish

If you have a multimeter/ voltmeter. I would take the horn button off and check you have a 12v supply to it by putting one probe to earth (a bolt on the door hinge or something) and the other to one of the incoming horn wires. One should show 12v.if you have 12v here, go to the horn unplug the wire from it and do same again with someone pressing the horn ( one probe to earth and the other on the horn wire) again 12v should show. If theres not 12v to horn button, you know theres a break in the supply. If theres 12v at horn button but not to horn itself ( with horn pressed) there is either a break in circuit from horn button to horn or the button itself its knackered. If theres a supply of 12v all way through to horn when horn is pressed you know horn is kaput. To check horn button is functioning. Set multimeter to ohms (resistance) and put the probes to the terminals on the back of button itself with horn unplugged. The resistance should be high when horn button is not pressed and very low when horn button is pressed.

The worst ive seen lol