TrisK

my mate has got them on his AE86. He works at a garage, and his mate that does body work did them for him. and even he said they were a right pain the arse to do.

ive gone for these for now rays are just stretching the bank balance atm with the other toys ive got coming

does the decat put on a engine light?

I also put this here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....45&start=45 but i thought i would post here as i will get more attention Just bought a new SS decat from the group buy. any tips/guide for fitting? im guessing its bolt cat out, bolt decat in. how much of the system do i have to drop to get at it. is there a lamba sesnor or anything on a glanza? will i get an engine light from the decat? where can i get new bolts, and how many do i need, as im guessing the existing ones will be rusty/sheered. thanks

if i just wanted to go cheap for now, what does anyone think of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12-Wheel-Nuts-19MM-B...=item483df0f75b maybe i should measure the whole just to check they will fit through the holes

i had a look on ebay, but nothing came up. rays branded ones would be nice. do they come with a locking nut too for that sorta price? link me when you get a chance please mate

well one of my pissing wheel nuts has fallen off. so i guess i need a new set now. cocks any suggestions on anything jdm or cool? ive got Te37s, so any suggestions i was thinking those anodized black, really long ones..... but will any fit? or do i need certain ones/certain thread. links would be nice thanks

if you dont mind me asking, where did you get the top spoiler in carbon? and how much?

damn why wasnt i earlier, i was going to post it haha. i thought of doing this, but my solenoid has been removed all together. was like that from japan

Pics?

Fair point mate, but i bet your mum/nan/next door neighbour hasnt read that. Thats the problem with being a big company like Toyota. Its all about reputation (How many people havent bought Peugot for the "french crap" thinking? Look what happened with Rover/MG due to their headgasket problems). I think big media scares like this could be the beginging of a slippery slope

This ones affects the fuel lines on 8 years worth of avensis (2000 - 2008, 2 litre and 2.4 litre) and also the Lexus IS 250 (2007 - 2009). I do worry how this is going to affect Toyota's reputation. With this and the sticky accelerator problem from last year. Are people going to be worried and think "maybe ill get that nice i10 instead of the Aygo"?. Personally, it doesnt really bother me. If there is a recall the chance of it affecting your car is quite low. And leaking/cracking fuel lines should of been picked up in servicing and other routine stuff. But im sure i can see my mum/aunty/gi

See I'm thinking as per my link you could do it with relays and wire If it was an option even better, we can rep the official part. Or if we can get a part #

well the plan is to buy one that is not going to make me run lean. so i could get something mapped for 0.1 bar of boost and then it runs lean anyway or one that advances timing too much, then bye bye ringlands..oh this is far too complicated haha

why would you need an after market alarm? im sure you could find the wire going to the ecu. hopefully. I already have remote central locking....

is there any way to tell what they were mapped for? a code or sticker or anything? or just look at the car it came out of?

has anyone got any recomendations of Blitz vs JAM ecu? Also, do all JAM/Blitz ECUs have the same map/set up? As in did they all leave the factory teh same and then they "learn" to your car/driving style?

anyone every tried something like this: http://www.vikash.info/fto/auto_mirror/autolock.asp to make the mirrors automatically fold in when you central lock?

What is this? Somebody is marketing it as a whole ECU. but its just a piggy back for fuel and timing? How much should i be looking to pay for one of these? How easy are they to fit? And will they remove the need for a FPR on a glanza on higher boost? Thanks

has anyone got any info on this front lip? what kind is it?

well just took these here is a pretty standard looking ecu, right? and just ftr, here is a picture of my actuator arm, you can see where it is threaded oin the right hand side:

If I have a a FCD then surely I can't have an aftermarket ecu

well its a 0.99kg/cm2 according to my turbo timer (peak), it stablies on the guage about 0.9kg/cm2 . which is about 1 bar isnt it? i presume i have a HKS actuator (i cant really see, but it is definately threaded, and looks like an HKS, although i cant see the end to see the logo) but im guessing creap wouldnt take me that high, would it? Also it came from Japan like that (so its not some pikey that has turned it up) as i am the 1st UK owner, and i have had it a year, and she is 100% fine.

i read it will run me lean as it 'tricks' the ecu into thinking you are running less boost than you are (so it doesnt cut), this means the ecu fuels for the level of boost it 'thinks' you are running. which is lean (as you are boosting higher than it realises) is this not right? So JAM ecu is about 500 quid. how easy are they to get hold of? If i was to go for a RRFPR how much is that? and would i need to replace hte injectors? (My mate said, that 'even if the fuel pressure is higher, if the injectors are shut you are still going to run lean', is that true)

i have a starlet glanza that is running 1 bar of boost with a HKS actuator, air filter and blitz exhaust. I have a JAM fcd to stop me from hitting fuel cut. obviously this means that at higher boost i am probably running lean. for this reason i am weighing up getting a RRFPR, again a piggyback ecu/standalone ecu i live in Guernsey in the Channel Islands, which means any RR or professional mappers are a boat ride, and a long drive away. for this reason i would need a 'learning' ECU or something that would give me enough to still be able to safely drive without a map. can anyone outline adva