Weyro

A wet system adds the extra fuel required along with the nitrous, a dry system allows the fuel system to compensate on its own. So im guessing a wet kit would be needed

Is it possible to run a Dry Nitrous kit with the standard ECU? cheers

equations is like my family

hahaha, the stock boost solenoid doesnt actively control boost its only a switch for hi and low, so the bleed valve will work

personally i dont like the idea of mesh directly on the inlet of the turbo the intake of a td04 is 22cm2 and if you use a 50% mesh, you are blocking 50% of the inlet which essentially makes it 11cm2 inlet. what i did was make a custom intake box that is a rectangle 15cm x 10cm which is 150cm2, with a 50%mesh this makes it 75cm2 which is over 3x the turbo inlet size, so will pose absolutely no restriction.

with vacuum line off at idle it should be 34psi for standard boost for 1bar boost it should be at 44psi

ah right the oil return? that goes from the bottom of the turbo to the sump?

^^ hahahahaha

Most girls probably get scared off the forums by all the horny guys hahaha

keep meaning to go to a c7 meet, just up the road from my halls

ill put mine on if its not

Don't know anyone with that part, you could try posting in the wanted section or give eBay a shot

Yes that's right, the vac line lowers the pressure when at idle, and raises it when on boost. So as long as its 3bar with the vac pipe off that's fine. That's probably one of the newer versions so I'm not really sure, but ill look into it Aw thats crap, the nut doesn't need to be really tight.

ive never been haha, looks pretty good though

SECC http://www.scottishcarshow.com/

Anyone going to the scottish car show in glasgow on the 21st?

which verison? if its this one, i can talk you through the setup

yea its definitely doing something if its making the engine dip a bit when u turn the dial, but it could still be faulty. what boost controller do you have? try setting the fcd to 12, so its basically off, and try setting your boost controller to 0.8bar and get it to hold the boost steady once you have done that, then put the fcd to setting 10, and boost to 0.9 bar and get it to hold steady then finally setting 8, and 1bar boost remember to set the fuel pressure first if the car is hitting fuel cut even with the boost set at 0.8bar then its definitely a boost spike

I thought by scaling it means that rather than 0-5v representing absolute 0-2bar it now represents absolute 0-3bar. Which works out at 0.36v per 0.16bar, which becomes 0.36v per 0.24bar.

setting 12 is basically off, it has the least affect oh the MAP signal are you running the standard ct9 turbo? if you have a decat, and cone filter, this can make the boost spike up really high, only way to really stop this is to restrict the air filter, by partially wrapping it with duct tape, or to port the wastegate inside the turbo

ive got a wideband though, so i should be able to sort the fueling out how does it differ from using an HKS FCD? i thought both would have the same effect since they are changing the voltage by a percentage setting 8 on an HKS fcd moves fuel cut from 0.85bar to around 1.2 running a 2.5bar sensor would move it to around 1.3 bar and a 3bar sensor to 1.77bar

haha ill report back tomorrow with a blown engine then

no the fuel pressure isnt relevant to when boost cut is activated, only the fcd affects that its possible that your boost is spiking up to where boost cut has now been moved to i should point out that you should have the fuel pressure set up first, then start raising the boost pressure if the sard has a pressure gauge you can set the fuelling yourself you should have the car running, remove the small vac pipe from the sard, then set the pressure to 3bar/44psi, then reattach the vac pipe