Weyro

yea so if 4.15v means 0.85bar on our 2bar sensors, then 4.15v should mean around 1.77bar on a 3bar map sensor, but the ecu will only fuel enough for 0.85bar

if its only 0-5v why cant the ecu read it? i thought it would be able to read the signal, just wont fuel correctly because the signal now represents a higher pressure

thinking about going forged, but until i do im going to push the stock engine and ecu till it pops haha

yea the fuel computer would compensate i guess an adjustable fuel pressure regulator could compensate too, since an HKS FCD has a similar affect on voltage as upping the size of the sensor well ive got a greddy one sitting in my room, was gonna try it

since its just a 0-5v i rekon it would read it fine, but obviously instead of 4v meaning 0.8bar, it now means 1.6bar, so the ecu would fuel wrong

Is it possible to replace the stock 2bar map sensor with a 3bar map sensor? The three wires on a map sensor, as far as im aware are: MAP signal, 5V reference, and sensor ground. So if you wired these up correctly it would work?

is it an HKS fcd? when i used one setting 8 moved fuel cut up to over 1.1bar, so either yours is faulty or not wired in right

i put in an offer and lowest they would go is 275 lol

setting 8 on the hks should raise boost cut to around 1.15-1.2bar, so allow you to run 1bar

hmm thats weird, stock is 2.4bar 44psi is about 3bar what kind of FCD do you have?

if you have all the other supporting mods. 44psi

These rods + ceramic coated pistons

the standard regulator is an rrFPR you want an adjustable rrFPR

1. Remove O2 Sensor 2. Replace with Spark Plug 3. Wire to coilpack 4. ??????? 5. Profit

I'm running a fuel controller now, which is just a fancy FCD, but f i ever went forged I'd definitely buy emanage.

Yea i know that the manage can be fine tuned for more smooth results, but in just talking about the fact everyone tells you that an fcd is a ticking time bomb, yet I've been running 242bhp on one for over a year Totally agree rob

If you want to run 1 bar of boost, on a standard ECU these are your two main options For the sake of this post lets compare tuning with a Greddy FCD vs Greddy Emanage Blue. Lets assume the stock ECU cuts at around 0.85bar or 4.15v, so to run 1bar you need to get around this. Both devices do this in the same way, they clamp the voltage so that the ECU never see's more than 4.1v. This means that when you are running 1bar, the ECU actually thinks you are running around 0.8bar. This presents 2 problems, the ECU will only be injecting enough fuel for 0.8bar, and will only be retarding the timing enough for 0.8bar. In regards to fueling, both need set up with a Wideband. With the FCD you usually add an adjustable FPR to the car, and increase the pressure till you are getting your desired AFR at WOT, as a result you make the car run richer across the whole rev range, and when off boost. With the Emanage you have an Injector map which can increase(or decrease) the injector Duty by %, and so you get your Desired AFR by adjusting this at various RPM and load points. This allows you to maintain the stock AFR's at anything below 0.8bar, this is good for fuel consumption among other things. In regards to timing. The FCD has no control of the Ignition timing, so although you now have the correct amount of fuel to run 1bar boost, you are still running on 0.8bar timing settings. (Which may be too advance for the higher pressure, and cause Knocking, which is bad.) With the Emanage you have an Ignition map which can increase(or decrease) the Ignition timing by %, and so you can adjust the timing to get best power, but avoid knock. Now assuming what i have said is correct, why do people seem to think FCD's are so bad, surely if you get the fueling set, and there is no knock. Its no more dangerous than the Emanage?

awesome, thanks but we dont have adjustable valve timing so we can only use Ignition timing or AFRs to control it?

ah right so knocking is when the mixture ignites ahead of the flame front, due to the increased pressure? but this still occurs after TDC? so by retarding the timing you have lower pressures reducing chance of det, and have better control of the direction of the flame front?

actually i think i get it at TDC and full boost, the spark is unable to ignite all of the mixture in the chamber due to the high pressures, so the leftover mixture burns in a second explosion which occurs after the spark? so you retard the timing so that the spark occurs at a cylinder pressure which will allow the whole mixture to burn at the same time

ok thanks but what i cant get my head around is why a later spark reduces knock, when retarded timing generates more heat?

Just wondering why when you tune an engine you retard timing as you increase boost pressure. Its my understanding that it takes longer for the flame front to reach the piston when you increase the cylinder pressure. So surely that means you would need to advance it more? I know its to avoid det, but why does it avoid det?

How much would it be for the complete car?

Toyosports 100% fit with the standard rad and there is loads of clearance.

Emanage Ultimate is an Awesome Piggyback ECU. A TD04 at 1bar makes around 220-240bhp. 1.2bar is the maximum to run on standard internals, this would see you around 250 with a good map. Massive difference from a CT9, The TD04 gives alot more torque, and hits alot harder.