nikhilkamdar12 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Hi all, I currently have forged motor etc... but stock head bolts and looking to go different turbo and over 300hp. I currently have an Athena 1.2mm head gasket also. Now can I just unbolt the original stock head bolts and wack the new uprated ARP ones in, or do I have to remove the entire head as the headgasket has been crushed and replace for a new one? Thanks Nikhil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 The proper way to do it is to replace the headgasket and skim the head Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikhilkamdar12 Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Cool sounds good I'll be doing that then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) disclaimer in advance---i have not tried this procedure myself now that is out of the way, it may be possible to change the head bolts without removing the head and ruining your headgasket...basically you would take out one old h/bolt at a time and replace with one new h/bolt at a time and re-tighten WHILE following the normal h/bolt installation procedure..when all of the bolts are replaced, then follow arp's procedures and final torque settings as required..i hope you understand what i'm trying to say there maybe some other members can comment on this method oh, to add, my other concern is that you are using a MLS h/gasket, which may not be as forgiving to any disturbances as an oem stock h/gasket Edited September 2, 2016 by gorganl2000 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikhilkamdar12 Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Yeah I was thinking this before as currently I have zero leaks and would like to kept it that way.Understand what your saying here. But even to take the first bolt out you never take it out fully you would realise it slightly following the pattern for unbolt? So you don't warp the head? If anyone else who's done this before could let me know the best way? And the one above? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 (edited) http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100863-Cylinder-head-removal-and-installation-info i'd follow the pattern for head bolt installation to remove and replace each bolt at a time...starting in number 1 position...then to number 2 position and so forth...somehow it seems less likely that the head will lift with this method which starts in the centre of the head and progresses slowly outwards Edited September 3, 2016 by gorganl2000 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mickey The Fish Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 I've just done this a few weeks ago and removed all the old head bolts using the correct sequence and then replaced with ARP bolts re-tightening using ARP's grease and instructions. As soon as I started the car the headgasket leaked straight away at the front, crank pulley side. As soon as I replaced the gasket like for like no more leaks. The block and head were both skimmed and checked by my local machine shop when the original gasket was fitted. So I'd recommend a new gasket to be honest. It'll save you time and grief. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikhilkamdar12 Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 I've just done this a few weeks ago and removed all the old head bolts using the correct sequence and then replaced with ARP bolts re-tightening using ARP's grease and instructions. As soon as I started the car the headgasket leaked straight away at the front, crank pulley side. As soon as I replaced the gasket like for like no more leaks. The block and head were both skimmed and checked by my local machine shop when the original gasket was fitted. So I'd recommend a new gasket to be honest. It'll save you time and grief. Okay I thought in the back of my mid this might happen! New head gasket it is then. My block and head were both skimmed also but while the head is off i'll see if it's all still straight otherwise i'll get it skimmed. Thanks for the info guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 I've just done this a few weeks ago and removed all the old head bolts using the correct sequence and then replaced with ARP bolts re-tightening using ARP's grease and instructions. As soon as I started the car the headgasket leaked straight away at the front, crank pulley side. As soon as I replaced the gasket like for like no more leaks. The block and head were both skimmed and checked by my local machine shop when the original gasket was fitted. So I'd recommend a new gasket to be honest. It'll save you time and grief. hey mickey...did you remove all of the old head bolts at the same time........and then install all of the new arp bolts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Seems like it. I can't see it happening if you swap them one at a time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Seems like it. I can't see it happening if you swap them one at a time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starlet__SR Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Just save yourself the hassle and do it right in the first place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mickey The Fish Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Yes, I removed all the bolts at once as I was worried about warping the head as I head a pig of a job getting the Athena headgasket to seal the first time around with the standard head bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Yes, I removed all the bolts at once as I was worried about warping the head as I head a pig of a job getting the Athena headgasket to seal the first time around with the standard head bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 It should work if you do it one at a time, just do them back up to standard torque, then go over the sequence again to arp torque setting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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