Custom Exhaust

[PPSR05]

Has anyone bought parts seperately and built their own system ie straight pipe bends and rear box and clamped them together all in stainless steel? Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks. Phil.

[dan106]

My mates about to make me a new centre section from scratch, what you want to know dude?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PPSR05]

I was just wondering if anyone has done it that way because it would work out a hell of a lot cheaper. I was looking at 2" stainless steel tubing and just get the seperate parts and clamp them together.

[Starlet__SR]

I was just wondering if anyone has done it that way because it would work out a hell of a lot cheaper. I was looking at 2" stainless steel tubing and just get the seperate parts and clamp them together.

By the time you've bought all the bits, the clamps, flanges and what not. It would be cheaper to go to a custom place and have one made.

[PPSR05]

By the time you've bought all the bits, the clamps, flanges and what not. It would be cheaper to go to a custom place and have one made.

I'm only looking at changing from the cat back and 1 m of 2"stainless tubing online can be bought for around £12 and then about £9-£10 each for the bends and I already have a back box I was just wondering really if anyone's done it this way. It just seems a hell of a lot cheaper then going to a custom fabricator or buying a system online.

[patman]

Mate done this yesterday on a v8 Lexus, took original twin exhaust off from middle of exhaust as it was so restricted, then used bends etc to the back, fantastic cutting and welding, and hangers on all sorted, and his Brighton too mate 👍🏻

[PPSR05]

So basically this is a good way of going about it bar the welding. In other words spending just over £50 on parts rather than spending like £250 on a ready built system. Plus it's only a project anyway it's no where near ready for the road.

[roachburger]

If you have access to a tig welder, it's massively cheaper but it's extremely time consuming. The worst part is getting your pipework over the rear beam to meet the back box. Ideally you need a couple of gearbox stands or tall stands and the car on a ramp the rest is pretty logical start from the downpipe and work your way backwards try to put your flexi near the rear of the subframe and if your building it I'd say minimum diameter would be 2.5" ideally 3

[Starlet__SR]

So basically this is a good way of going about it bar the welding. In other words spending just over £50 on parts rather than spending like £250 on a ready built system. Plus it's only a project anyway it's no where near ready for the road.

A decent fabricator wont charge the earth for a straight pipe from cat to backbox. Get it welded and it'll last.

[PPSR05]

I mean it sounds simple enough even if for now I was to only clamp it with the option of getting it welded and I'm looking at 2" as Ive got an SR and not going turbo so saw that people recomended 2"-2.5"

I appreciate all the replies too by the way.

Thanks. Phil.

[Starlet__SR]

I mean it sounds simple enough even if for now I was to only clamp it with the option of getting it welded and I'm looking at 2" as Ive got an SR and not going turbo so saw that people recomended 2"-2.5"

I appreciate all the replies too by the way.

Thanks. Phil.

Stick with 2", its more than sufficent for an N/A

[roachburger]

A decent fabricator wont charge the earth for a straight pipe from cat to backbox. Get it welded and it'll last.

[Starlet__SR]

Agree'd but it's not as simple as just welding a piece of pipe at both ends it's time consuming and, to bend stainless is difficult unless you have the correct machinery.

My bad I thought it was a turbo .. yeah 2" is best with a good manifold. Clamps with the amount of bends needed would be redonkulous, quite expensive and would be pretty difficult to do without something knocking or scraping as you drive. Just Weld it :-)

Hence why I suggested a fabricator. A straight through pipe from the cat to the axle wont be expensive.

[roachburger]

Fair point

My reasoning was... Powerflow quoted me 300 for a 2.5" system and anyone else I spoke to wanted more money or wouldn't be able to mandrel bend the tube.

I made mine for just over half that in 3" with v bands

Either way is good I suppose.

my advice... it isn't as easy to do as it looks and weld it together if you do.

[PPSR05]

I mean you can buy the mandrel bends online and would need three 45deg bends and between 1-1.5m of straight pipe I was looking at doing it this way for now as there's no way I can afford like £300 on an exhaust system whereas you could buy the sections for easily less than £100. I mean I know welding would be the best option but like I said it's a project at the moment and it's no where near being on the road.

[starletezy]

I have custom built mine using an spoon N1 2.5inch system into an 3inch japspeed mid section not the easiest task unless you have an ramp

[5e colin]

wel diy ( if you have your own tig ) its going to be much cheaper then any of the shelf front to back box will be under 100£

i will be doing the same but for 4efte and in 2.5" just use current aftermarket back box

depending where you live for the postal you can get the parts very cheap on the bay

[richardc9052]

i made my own. i tried standard dia, straight piped to back box, 2.5" with mid and back box, 2" with mid and back box and 2" straight piped to back box.

I was also using a custom 4age 20v mani to 4efe flange AND i was running on 4efte ecu and loom (very good setup, nice aggressive timing supposed to help the fte off boost but works beautifully for this) all on a JDM 100ps 4efe... so this may differ if you are using standard.

The best for me was 2" straight piped to back box. anything else moved the powerband too much in either direction.