mark1991 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Not big write up as i'm falling sleep What started off as a lazy phone call to Gary91... ended in being in the garage stripping the rear axle, brakes and suspension off my car as i wanted some camber. After reading a few threads and builds claiming there was some gains to be had in handling (and better clearance for my wheels) I didn't want to increase the track and have to get a donner axle to cut the stubs off. so this is what we did. With some measuring and cutting 1 cut was where the beam meets the plate the stub is welded to. I added 1.5 degrees The second cut was below the stub as you can see above, not cut all the way through! Also the cut was ground out to be filled out properly. I have a feeling there will be criticism on my method but at the end day i didn't just start welding a fabricating yesterday This took me a few hours with no machining! Just some good measuring, cutting and welding and double checking everything. Any questions Edited January 18, 2017 by mark1991 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Works and hopefully holds also. This job need very stable hands, every mm affects camber, how much did You tooked away by the way?In Finland law don't allow to do such a modifications to axle, so it needs good grinding and painting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Overall it's a 2mm gap, and pulled over 1.5mm. once everything is spot on a tack weld in place and the take a 1mm cutting disc and open out the cut (to get good penetration) and then place 2 more tacks and check all your measurements again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 wheels fitted but not resting on her feet yet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Cheers, first I will have to set up the pan hard rod but I'm very happy with the result!More pictures to follow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triple j Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Great job lad, love to see a picture of her off the stands, should the camber stay the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 If it didnt id be worried haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Only problem is the price of shipping the axle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goldenvtr Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) get it on a hunter alignment, im intrested to see how its affected toe aswell as camber, but if all is well then nice work! Edited January 19, 2017 by goldenvtr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 That would be my concern too. The toe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 That won't be for some time guys I have an inlet manifold to fabricate and an engine to build Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 of topic what size tungsten and filler rod where you using ( tig noob ) camber looooks good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark1991 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 2.4 tungsten and 1.6mm wire Around 120amp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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