LeonL Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 (edited) Hey guys, had a search online and lots of different opinions so thought I’d make a topic. not had the car long and only insured it last week to start using but has quite a bad misfire. misfire seems to happen under normal driving off boost and sometimes when coming into boost. At around 2500rpm-3000rpm. Constant misfire that causes car to jump about until it passes it. Seems worse at lower speeds. ive changed plugs, my leads are ngk blue leads, worth changing these? compression test shows 160-170 across all 4 unplugging 02 sensor makes car seem a lot smoother to drive in general but the same misfire still persists other items I need I change? Edited February 23, 2019 by LeonL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Dizzy cap and Rotor arm and king lead caused mine to misfire, king lead was toast as was the cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 (edited) Hmm guess I’ll replace it all Cheapest place for good quality lead set? also arm and dizzy cap? Don’t want to end up with eBay knock offs Edited February 23, 2019 by LeonL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Surely leads can’t be £100? All I can find Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 If you go for uprated Magencore ones they will be around £100.00 but worth it imo. That said you may find a used set on here / the starlet pages on FB. Toyota for Rotor Arm and Dizzy cap - not massively expensive items. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 How are the ngk blue leads? As that’s what’s fitted to car atm, seem to be around £60-65 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rob_bower Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 There just oem replacement set. I ran them on my n/a for years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 From Toyota Cap,30 arm,10 king lead,25 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Ended up buying -red magnecor leads -fuel filter -dizzy cap -rotar arm all from id works so hopefully that sorts my problem because if not I’m pretty stuck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Hopefully that sorts it for you. If not report back Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gwtaylor Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Any updates on this?? Try replacing one thing at a time so you can ID where the fault was Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Ive replaced and fitted the following: - magnecor Ht leads -new rotor arm -new dizzy cap -second hand coil just waiting on a boost hose so I can go drive and test for misfires! If it’s still missing then I’m stuck for ideas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 UPDATE: cars still the same, misfire around 3000revs when going onto boost, sometimes really bad, sometimes it can push past it. Ive replaced and fitted the following: - magnecor Ht leads -new rotor arm -new dizzy cap -second hand coil -new plugs compression test comes back fine. whats my options now? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 (edited) Could 02 sensor cause issues like this? could an old shitty battery cause this issue? Edited March 17, 2019 by LeonL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Have you changed the king lead from coil to dizzy ? Mine has been running since I had it with a broken O2 sensor wire just fine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Yea all leads including king lead changed to magnecores Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gwtaylor Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 How about the dizzy itself did you change that? as new king lead will get good spark to dizzy but if dizzy is knackered it’s not going to be able to fully distribute spark correctly even with new leads cap and arm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzadude Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 I had the same thing with my gt, it turned out to be a crack in tge decat and manifold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 A crack would cause that much of an issue? Surely not? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) I’ve not changed the actual dizzy it’s self no, just the cap Possible timing issue? Runs fine in normal driving though Edited March 18, 2019 by LeonL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzadude Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 have a look anyways Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 25 minutes ago, glanzadude said: have a look anyways My manifold does have a hairline crack that does allow a slight blowing but never thought it would cause such a serious issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gwtaylor Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 I had a fault with a dizzy that when underload it wasn't able to produce the current but under normal driving it did Om another car I had a misfire problem and it was down to ther alternator belt looked and felt in great condition but real close inspection there was a few teeth missing and that caused all sorts of problems. if you can connect a voltage guage up which can be read whilst in car and see if there is a dramatic voltage drop underload that might help to narrow down problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LeonL Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 When turning heater on with all lights on it can cause the car to “jolt” and the headlights dim for a few seconds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Battery or alternator then, put a multimeter on the alt it should read around 13.5 volts when running. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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