stevie82 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 My n/a has a high idle, starts at 1200 rpm when cold then rises to 1500 rpm after warm up phase, it has a Corolla inlet, so far I’ve changed throttle body gasket, checked and cleaned all the earths, cleaned idle air valve and throttle housing out, it runs standard air box with blitz panel filter. Anybody any ideas ? Changing the icv was my next step 😔 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 (edited) Hello spray brake cleaner around the outside of the intake and inlet manifold to see if it affects rpm to find a leak. Have the engine running. Also do a blink code dtc read out on the ems to help pin point the fault. Edited April 6, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pinkygti Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Sounds like an air leak somewhere Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevie82 Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 Thanks for the replies I’ll check for air leaks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
l i am Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 did u get around this? im having the same problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevie82 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Not yet car is at work and I’m not 😔 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevie82 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Ok so I’ve checked for air leaks to no joy, it idled high before I changed the inlet from factory to Corolla and can’t see a split in any of the vac pipes😔 I’ve changed the TPS and it’s made no difference at all so was thinking the sensor on the drivers side bulk head that has a vac pipe going to the inlet(not sure what it is) top left behind the strut brace, I’m running out of ideas ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Injector seals, or idle valve faulty\stuck the idle valve is the valve on the underside of the throttle body. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I have this issue after engine swap, noticed this on a service invoice from 2016, investigate high idle. Tried the ecu master reset, disconect battery for 10 mins with no joy. Should I do something to the idle valve? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 I think most of the possibilities have been covered above, check for leaks, make sure all the electrical connectors are plugged in. The idle control valve setting and throttle stop screw are set at the factory and should not need adjusting. Is the throttle cable too tight / sticking? if you unhook it from the throttle body does the idle change? If you unplug the idle control valve connector when the engine is warm does the idle change? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 6 hours ago, Claymore said: I think most of the possibilities have been covered above, check for leaks, make sure all the electrical connectors are plugged in. The idle control valve setting and throttle stop screw are set at the factory and should not need adjusting. Is the throttle cable too tight / sticking? if you unhook it from the throttle body does the idle change? If you unplug the idle control valve connector when the engine is warm does the idle change? The throttle cable has a small amount of slack. It does stick a little after its been sat. I can feel it break free When I unplug the icv connector the idle drops to about 1100, plug it in and it pops up to 1500 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 That's weird? when I unplug my icv connector when warmed up it raises the idle! As far as I know the valve defaults to an open position which raises idle rather than oscillating the valve. Is it the icv from the new replacement engine? maybe its stuck and not adjusting with the coolant heat. Do you have the old icv from the original engine you could try? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Yes, but its on the engine at the garage. Going over on saturday hopefully. My guy is gona take a look. Will update Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Tried throttle cleaner with no luck. Swapped the pipes round at the back as i saw someone say it could be the issue but no change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 It sounds like it could be the throttle stop setup. This is the Allen keyed adjusting screw on the throttle arm at rest position. Did you say it's a different throttle body. Also there is the intake air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor these adjust fueling if 1 is faulty if will fuel more but because of the large veriation of the sensors readout the ECU does not see a fault. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Nope, its just standard 4efe all round Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 (edited) Is the throttle body mucky in side. Would you be interested in setting up the tps and throttle butterfly. You will need a multimeter we can compare readings from the air temp sensor& coolant temp sensor engine cold. What year is yours I've got 2x Different idle control valves here Infront of me on 2x Toyota e series engines. I think 1 is off the 5e paseo but I was told the paseo has a 4 pin tps but these are 3pin With 2x different idle control valve setups. Edited August 14, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 98, i dont have a multi meter sorry. My tps (black) and icv(grey) plugs are 3 pin. I have the stuff from og engine, but its a my mechs garage. Need to get it tomorrow possibly. I take it the plastic plug in the air box is the air temp sensor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 (edited) Yep Here's the throttles I have off the 4e engine The top 1 smaller butterfly is off the ep80 gi and COROLLA 1st gen used with the 4efte inlet manifold. More pictures to come I'll strip them down. The 1st gen has an idle adjustment screw on the top right side like on the turbo throttle. The 2 different idle control valves on the starlet. Both idle valves are seized solid in the alloy housing. The right 1 has been modified by someone you can see the steel putty coming out of the idle valve inlet. They must have adjusted the throttle arm stop screw to correct idle rpm. Steel putty blocking the inlet port. Idle control gate/arm seized and will not turn on both the throttle bodies. Might be a common issuse. This is for the idle arm return spring adjustment. Only found on 1 of the throttle bodies. Yep you can see the difference In the stop screw length. I would have sooner put a drill hole threw the butterfly to correct idle, this is because the ECM uses the throttle position to calculate engine load on an na engine. Standard tps idle position 449ohms Full throttle reading is 2800ohms. Edited August 14, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starletson Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Nice work Sam. I have the one without adjuster screw. Just been over the garage and swapped the throttle bodies. Idle back to normal and the sticky accelerator pedal seems to have gone too. Seems smoother through the rev range as well 😁 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 (edited) No worries. I recon most of these now will have seized idle control gates. These cars/system is so so basic it's fun to just work out how it runs, very simply done. Enjoy. Edited August 15, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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