BoostJunkie Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Another Breaking in thread lolThough this one is different as i know the usual break in procedures such as keep it below 3000 revs and not above 60 for 1000 miles plus in that time do a lot of engine breaking rather than using the brake pedal to bed the rings in for when it comes time for mapping.i'm running (will keep it short just fuelling mods) wiseco forged pistons and scat rods walbro 255lph fuel pump and 330cc injectors, rrfpr on standard ecu (for the time being) i have a emanage blue here but will fit that once the 1000 miles is up and go to get it mapped. but this is my q, fuelling will be out and overfuelling, is it gonna be ok running like this until the 1000 miles is up and go to get it mapped ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 If you have the standard injectors, put them in and put the FPR to standard pressure.With the 330 injectors it will over fuel a tad, which you dont want on a fresh engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve GT Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 yep i agree with above aslong as you keep the revs down and drive it steady though i cant see it being a huge problem lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 If you have the standard injectors, put them in and put the FPR to standard pressure.With the 330 injectors it will over fuel a tad, which you dont want on a fresh engine.will it run slightly lean on standard injectors due to bigger capacity, as would rather slightly rich as to lean ?aint touched the fpr since it went off road i don't have a gauge so guessing its next to standard pressure due to it running on standard injectors before Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 The standard setup runs slightly rich anyway, so should be fine.Was the FPR setup previously on a RR? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 The standard setup runs slightly rich anyway, so should be fine.Was the FPR setup previously on a RR?kl will put standard injectors back in in the mean time then cheersi don't know mate the car came with the fpr in it and i never touched anything before putting it off road but my suspicions are that it was running a little rich not excessively though as it ran beautifully and i had it on an exhaust gas analyzer and was running fine or that could be as you said the standard injectors were causing it to be running rich anyway.everybody knows stoichio is 14.75:1 but i've read that most tuners tune for 12-13:1 thats rich ? but i'm guessing that is ok on broken in engines ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 On a nasp engine they will tune to around 12-13, but for a turbo car its normally around 11.5 or there abouts.Running rich would be anywhere below them figures.Stoich is for idle purposes only.Put the standard injectors in and if you can get a hold of a standard FPR then put that on until you have the engine broken in.Then you can put the uprated one back on and tune to that.Its not the injectors that make it run rich, its the standard mapping of the ecu fom Toyota, for reliability. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Driver Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 mate of mine forged a civic enginetook spark plugs out and cranked it over untill it had good oil pressure (meening oil is in engine and up to all necisary areas) then when it had good pressure, plugs back in then start it, left it runing for baout 20-30 mins on his front then went and mapped it, that was about 2 year ago and its still going Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 On a nasp engine they will tune to around 12-13, but for a turbo car its normally around 11.5 or there abouts.Running rich would be anywhere below them figures.Stoich is for idle purposes only.Put the standard injectors in and if you can get a hold of a standard FPR then put that on until you have the engine broken in.Then you can put the uprated one back on and tune to that.Its not the injectors that make it run rich, its the standard mapping of the ecu fom Toyota, for reliability.would just be easier to buy a gauge and turn it down to standard pressure if that aint at standard ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Put the standard injectors back in and fpr at stock pressure..Or get a gauge and see what your Adjusting it tooYou need to rev it to seal the rings properly.. Take it upto about 5k but with no boost I would do an oil change at 50-250-500-750-1000 then go and get it mapped Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Put the standard injectors back in and fpr at stock pressure..Or get a gauge and see what your Adjusting it tooYou need to rev it to seal the rings properly.. Take it upto about 5k but with no boost I would do an oil change at 50-250-500-750-1000 then go and get it mapped rev it to 5k you sure and how would i do it with no boost remove intercooler pipe at throttle body ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StarletRick Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 rev the wank off of it, just dont load the engine. revs wont kill it, loadit it up will. youre better off going up a hill at 5k in 2nd instead of 2k in 5th for example. you want the engine to stay spinning but under the least amount of load. that said, dont sort there boshing it off the limiter. just increase the revs slowly with the miles. i think by 50 miles on mine i was revving to 5k. taking it to 7+ at 100 miles. that engine got used and abused, and is still about somewhere making 300+ hp. never been stripped down. it outlasted alot of the other "big power" tgtt boys who blow engines up for lulz. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ToyotaTech15 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have a toyota guide from doing rebuilds at work, they say also not to put the engine under load(also not pulling any weight), dont downshift abruptly to be harsh on the engine. there is more but cant remember them all.Ive been told to vary the loads as the engine milage increases to bed the rings in properlyGary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 rev it to 5k you sure and how would i do it with no boost remove intercooler pipe at throttle body ?yup.. Running them in hard is the best way.. Aswell as looser engines make more power re the boost, if your gentle enough on the throttle it won't boost.. If you have an internally gated turbo I presume you could take the actuator arm off the wastegate flap.. Do lots of oil/filter changes aswell.. Oil is cheaper than a new engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Give it boost when running it in.Will stop the bores from being glazed, and give a good seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ToyotaTech15 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Give it boost when running it in.Will stop the bores from being glazed, and give a good seal.How much is it safe to give?obviously not flat out on boost all the time, just occasionally up to a certain revs after so many miles?Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Not alot in my opinion.. Think dave advised my bro 0.1-0.2 bar after a few miles...When I said don't boost it.. I mean don't go canning when your fuelling hasn't been setup.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ToyotaTech15 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 cool cheers,Engine running in in my opinion is by far the most important part, just want to make sure i get as much info as possible for future reference.Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Cheers lads appreciatedso just to recap its ok to rev it as long as the engine aint under load and can boost it (lightly) as long as fuelling is sorted i.e i put standard injectors back in and make sure fpr is set at standard ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StarletRick Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 i wan 0.3bar while running on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 I gave mine a 1 bar at 60 miles, then gave it boost when it needed it.Up to 100 miles, i gave it boost here and there, after that i drove it as i normally would,.Back on the dyno at 600 miles.20,000 miles later, and it still puls like a young een.How much is it safe to give?obviously not flat out on boost all the time, just occasionally up to a certain revs after so many miles?Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ToyotaTech15 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Cool Rory thanksGary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoostJunkie Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 I gave mine a 1 bar at 60 miles, then gave it boost when it needed it.Up to 100 miles, i gave it boost here and there, after that i drove it as i normally would,.Back on the dyno at 600 miles.20,000 miles later, and it still puls like a young een.i'm guessing you already had aftermarket management that you had mapped before your rebuild ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rorenapier Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Aye, but had the wideband also.Mines ECU and uprated pump only (at the time) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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