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not interested in turboing at all. its cool but whats different about a 200bhp glanza? not that i expect those figures from an NA. i like my 1.3 NA. i have the rolla manifold a sports catback system and hks mushroom filter i dont really need massive power which is a good job lol i just want to make the power i do have as efficient as it can be. the coilovers and toyo proxes take care of the handling for now. i just thought the lightened and balanced flywheel would help it rev quicker its just a worry about the enertia thats lost i worry about.

if i had the funds it would be a supercharged project

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yeah you would notice a pick up in acceleration, but equaly a there would be a decrese in acceleration speed once off throttle. ther nice but only with other mods which would compliment it realy.

i have lightweight flywheel and it's not bad but then i have a turbo... on an n/a your money would be much better spent else were and uprated pulleys and flywheel arnt cheap... plus you might as well uprate the clutch while doing it all. that money you could use towards something much more cost effective (cams, ecu+remap)

thats my advice anyway

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Completely Agree Anup. and glanza CL you bring me to my next question what uprated ecu can i buy for the NA this is new areas ventured for me. can i buy an uprated plug and play ecu? also can i put the trd 0.6 gasket straight on with no other mods?

the uprated pulleys are on the bay quite cheap i think.

really appreciate you guys takin in an interest in this discussion its been buggin me for a while

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list of jobs then

in no specific order

Rolla manifold = check

sports catback = Check

HKS filter = Check

Coilovers = Check

To do

Ecu that can be remaped

5efhe cams

lightened and balanced flywheel or engineering company to sort the standard unit

lightened pulleys

Trd 0.6 gasket

exedy clutch

valve stem seals need sortin so may aswell get the head ported and polished

jus need a direction to follow

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Completely Agree Anup. and glanza CL you bring me to my next question what uprated ecu can i buy for the NA this is new areas ventured for me. can i buy an uprated plug and play ecu? also can i put the trd 0.6 gasket straight on with no other mods?

the uprated pulleys are on the bay quite cheap i think.

really appreciate you guys takin in an interest in this discussion its been buggin me for a while

for money i would just got emanage blue would do the job fine, there are no 'plug and play' ecu's for the n/a to my knowlage.

yep you can put the trd headgasket on with no other mods, it's just a headgasket so doesnt effect anything...well apart from compression slightly but it effects it for the better.

also there would be no point geting uprated pullys unless there adjustable... as if your modding an n/a cams is a definate at some point and it would make life easyier.

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glanza 's' ecu fits rite in (i think) and i read somewhere it lets the engine rev more, and the glanza 's' fuel injectors are slightly bigger than the standard 1's..... im sure some1 would clarify this :wub:

HT leads, nrg spark plugs... should make a difrence to the ignition

the main thing is get a cold air feed to your induction kit, and also a heat sheild, people always forget the heat sheild :(

Anup

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i cant find glanza s parts i was lookin for the injectors and ecu but where do you begin?

i wouldnt bother... you might gain possible 5-6bhp and that wouldnt be noticable anyway.

as Gary said Enzo's build is going to be pretty insane for an SR and parts will be released through him that never existed for the n/a's... totaly worth the wait in my opinion :wub:

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sorry, didnt mean to come across like 'do this! dont do this!' haha, just i spent alot of money in the past on silly things i could have not bothered and saved a mint!

if your realy serius about modding the n/a, my list would be:

decat/ full system around 1.5-195inch perhaps

full cold air feed

uprated inlet mani, perhaps throttle bodie to

ported head

high lift cams

ecu

i think that would nudge 100bhp

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glanza 's' ecu fits rite in (i think) and i read somewhere it lets the engine rev more, and the glanza 's' fuel injectors are slightly bigger than the standard 1's..... im sure some1 would clarify this :wub:

HT leads, nrg spark plugs... should make a difrence to the ignition

the main thing is get a cold air feed to your induction kit, and also a heat sheild, people always forget the heat sheild :(

Anup

the ecu need a knock sensor fitted and the wiring loom that goes to the ecu needs work. the ecu is far from a plug in job.

i have a cusco flywheel on my glanza and the difference it made was unbelievable, it picks uk so quick compared to what it used to be like

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I looked into all this a while back. You wont need to touch the injectors for now as they are more than capable at doing their job.

Before doing anything give the engine a full service and oil change, so that you know it's running properly. (If you haven't already).

I wouldn't bother with the Glanza S ECU or injectors, there's always loads of discussion about them but they seem a waste of time to me.

If you're really serious about spending money on a non turbo Starlet then the first step on any car is the breathing mods which you've already got some of them. (Air intake, inlet manifold, exhaust system, exhaust manifold).

Then it starts getting expensive. You mentioned your valve stem seals need doing so if you have enough money you could get the head fully done, new seals, ported & polished, skimmed, uprated cams.

Another thing to consider is a slightly bigger throttle body.

You could also do other things like you said lightened flywheel and pulleys, thinner headgasket to raise the compression, etc...

Along with this you should get a piggyback ECU and get it mapped.

Once that's done the next major step is individual throttle bodies.

In reality though you're spending thousands of pounds compared to the gains you're getting. For the amount of money you're spending you'd be better off dropping a 4AGE 20v in there. I can understand if the cost of insurance means you wouldn't be able to do that but I'd assume that someone who could afford to spend thousands on a 4EFE could afford the insurance premiums on a 4AGE conversion.

On another note, don't assume that just because you have coilovers and good tyres that the handling is "sorted".

I did this myself, uprated shocks and springs, good tyres, strut braces, and at first I thought yeah this handles like a go kart but really it doesn't. There's so much more you can do.

Another thing people bang on about is uprating the brakes when going for more power, for safety reasons. I sometimes thought "fuck safety" but then it's not all about safety, being able to brake harder and later means you can keep the power on for longer. On a track it would make a very noticable difference between standard brakes and a good brake setup.

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I looked into all this a while back. You wont need to touch the injectors for now as they are more than capable at doing their job.

Before doing anything give the engine a full service and oil change, so that you know it's running properly. (If you haven't already).

I wouldn't bother with the Glanza S ECU or injectors, there's always loads of discussion about them but they seem a waste of time to me.

If you're really serious about spending money on a non turbo Starlet then the first step on any car is the breathing mods which you've already got some of them. (Air intake, inlet manifold, exhaust system, exhaust manifold).

Then it starts getting expensive. You mentioned your valve stem seals need doing so if you have enough money you could get the head fully done, new seals, ported & polished, skimmed, uprated cams.

Another thing to consider is a slightly bigger throttle body.

You could also do other things like you said lightened flywheel and pulleys, thinner headgasket to raise the compression, etc...

Along with this you should get a piggyback ECU and get it mapped.

Once that's done the next major step is individual throttle bodies.

In reality though you're spending thousands of pounds compared to the gains you're getting. For the amount of money you're spending you'd be better off dropping a 4AGE 20v in there. I can understand if the cost of insurance means you wouldn't be able to do that but I'd assume that someone who could afford to spend thousands on a 4EFE could afford the insurance premiums on a 4AGE conversion.

On another note, don't assume that just because you have coilovers and good tyres that the handling is "sorted".

I did this myself, uprated shocks and springs, good tyres, strut braces, and at first I thought yeah this handles like a go kart but really it doesn't. There's so much more you can do.

Another thing people bang on about is uprating the brakes when going for more power, for safety reasons. I sometimes thought "fuck safety" but then it's not all about safety, being able to brake harder and later means you can keep the power on for longer. On a track it would make a very noticable difference between standard brakes and a good brake setup.

firstly, i can see that you spent a lot of time writing that, so well done 2 you sir :wub:

and, apart from the usual stuff (rarb, springs, shocks, strut bars, tyres and maybe panrod bar) what makes it handle better?

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Anup, the only things I can think off adding to that list is Front ARB (TRD etc), C-Pillar Bar, Lower Arm Bar, Rear lower strut brace (I don't know if you can get one for Starbo's) and Polyurethrane Bushes all round if you want to be really thorough..

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My kinda disscus..........

in my opinion for the N/As we need

Handling

RARB

Antilift kit

New poly bushes everywhere (not just engine, the main chassis ones aswell think, they`ve been in there for what? 12-14 years im sure there past there best)

Lowered on KYB srs + springs or coilovers

front + rear strut......c-pillar at a push nothing else really helps imho your just adding weight

decent tyres toyos, rainsports etc

throw un-needed weight out

Braking

Front braided lines (not sure rears are worth it since the rear breaks at ~15%)

bmc`s

new standard discs , vented at a push (i dont buy all the grooves/holes bull were not on a track FULL STOP they never get pushed that hard to need stuff lyk tht)

uprated pads (or standard)

5.1 fluid

Engine

corolla inlet

filter + feed

decat, mani, exhaust

5EFHE cams

FTE valve springs

raise the rev limit (change the crystal, although power is achived at around 5500 for us it just makes it safer knowing you can go that bit more)

tart the head up

avensis TB

And to be honest i dont care what people say "oh get a FTE/v/gt" etc etc its never as simple as that with insurance costs to think about and fuel and when you do go turbo the cost spirals out of control. Im very very happy with the FE its a little soilder as it is with a few little mods and a decent budget ALOT can be done with it.

Lol, just read it all back went waaaaaaaaayy off topic...i`ve always found the lightened stuff to be expensive i`d defo get the crank though no real gains in water pump and alt

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