Amjad Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 No Luke I didn't bleed it, but when I was taking everything off again to check, the coolant was coming out of the TB so I think it's fine on that frontYeah let's see how it goes tomorrow, thanks again for the help Asad, I appreciate it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 i cleaned a idle control valve on my mate micra once,you need to use a short stubby screw driver, it makes it easier to undo them. can pick them up from B&Q for a couple of quid. stanley ones are good because of the grip.good luck with your upgrade. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 I used one about 10cm long but the screws wouldn't budge I'm gonna see if I can just swap over the sensors after diagnostic rather than the whole section like yesterday Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 use only very short stubby one. they make it much easier to undo.the length is about 10-12cm including a fat handle for better grip. a cloth also helps with grip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 Cool, I'll have another crack at it on Wednesday (finished work really late today and same tomorrow :harhar:) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 its still day light bro! get out there!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anup67 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Noooo revise amjad! :harhar: lol i bet your exams are comin up!(its the 2 five doors on each shoulder being the angel and devil :)) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 lol got exams myself, gonna go back to revising :harhar: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 Noooo revise amjad! lol i bet your exams are comin up!(its the 2 five doors on each shoulder being the angel and devil ;) )LOL you said it :harhar:I don't wanna do it now, it'll just piss me off if I don't manage to sort it out! I've got all day Wednesday off so I can have a proper go then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 19, 2010 Author Share Posted May 19, 2010 Well had another crack and the bastard is now revving to 4000rpm on idle - Put the stock TB back on and still the same- Connected the PS pipes back up to the TB and started up again, idleing at 1100rpm when warm!So evidently you can't NOT have those PS pipes connected!- So I'm led to believe this TB won't work on the 4efe I think I just need to adjust my idle now to get it back to normal ~900rpm?I may try fitting a Glanza throttle body WITH an fte inlet mani but that won't be for some time yet... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
enzo_e492901 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I believe the vacuum lines that go from the throttle body to the steering rack is an idle up valve that lets air leak past the throttle body to up the revs when the steering is moved or gets to its end stops at idle. The normal electronical IACV dose not control this because it was probably cheaper and/or easier to use a mechanical valve than to use an electronical sensor to talk to the IACV.If you were to disconnect the lines from the throttle body end and not block the holes in the throttle body there would be a vacuum leak and it would idle high.If you were to disconnect the lines from the steering rack and not block the holes in the steering rack it would not matter as long as you blocked off the lines from the throttle body and didnt connect them together or you get the vacuum leak again.As your 4afe throttle body dont have the holes on the throttle body there is no problem apart from the revs dropping at idle when the steering is used.Im guessing you can get power steering and non power steering throttle bodys. In theory all you would need to do to a non power steering throttle body to get it to work with a power steering rack would be to connect one line from the steering rack to each side of the throttle body butterfly.As for the high idle I would say you did something wrong and introduced a vacuum leak making the engine idle high. Same when you restored everything to the way it was.I hope that helped and has not confused you more.Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mk1kurt Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 i have the TB that you have on a 5efhe mani and the gain as quite a bit. the power delivery is 10 times better that standard you will notice a difference in the delivery in power.kurt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 Thanks Gavin, I've got my idle back down to normal now on my stock TB. It sits a tiny bit higher than it used to, but I'm guessing that's because I didn't recalibrate my TPS, I just twisted it a bit.Sucks I couldn't get it to work though, I'm not a very patient person; it was doing my head in so I gave up I am hoping to get a 4efte TB and inlet manifold though which should still see an improvement Quote Link to post Share on other sites
enzo_e492901 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 No problem!!I would recommend the FTE inlet having one as standard on my Gi engine before I rebuilt it and will be going back to it soon!. You will not be able to use the FTE throttle body tho due to different idle air control valve. When my Gi engine was fitted we had the same problem with the throttle body so we mated the standard throttle body to the FTE inlet and it worked very well.One thing I noticed is I think your measuring the wrong side of the throttle body. They taper from front to back so you need to measure the back of the throttle body. The standard one is 45mm and the FTE and 4afe ones are 50mmIt really is a matter of knowing where you want your powerThe corolla manifold is better low to mid but if you slapped a bigger (50mm) throttle body on it it will help top end. But the manifold needs modding to fit it. (could see good gains I believe the Gi engine would of seen this manifold as standard had it been designed in time for this engine)FTE manifold is better top end but if you slapped a smaller (45mm) throttle body on it it will help low to mid. (I believe this is best allround config)FTE manifold mated to a 4afe (50mm) throttle body would result in a screamer that needs to be reved hard to do anything useful I believe (this is closest to the Gi engine)As the corolla manifold needs modding to fit the 4afe 50mm throttle body your better off with the FTE inlet so you can try both throttle bodys but you will need an adaptor to cover an IACV port at the back of the throttle body with this manifold no matter which throttle body you choose.Its swings and roundabouts.This is a very simplified/brief explanation tho.Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 Ah yeah your right, I didn't realise I should've measured the other side!Primarily I do want low-mid range power, as I don't drive it at the limit much. But if and when I do, I would like a bit more oomph so I think the fte & stock TB manifold sounds like a good plan! That's a good explanation, made things a bit clearer nowI think the fte mani is the same as the GI one, except it has more sensor plugs (which I'd have to seal)?Also good to see you back on the forums mate, your build is really something special Quote Link to post Share on other sites
enzo_e492901 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Glad I was of help.Yeah as far as I can work out the FTE manifold is the same as the Gi one except like you say the FTE one has more holse drilled in it for sensors and vacuum lines. Pluging them up will be fine ive had to plug a couple on the Gi one aswell.I just want to say my success with the FTE inlet and 45mm TB might be due to the Gi's pink injectors (believed to be 200cc) but as the ecu controls the duration it might not. May also be the Gi's fuel regulator or even both. I dont think it is TBH but just a warning because ive never had standard injecters in the Gi engine so have nothing to compare. I will be mesuring the fuel pressure soon on the Gi so I can fit a fuelab fuel regulator so ill know if its the same as uk cars soon.Thanks man its good to be back just cant keep away. lolGavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Some valid points, learnt something new about the powersteering stuff..... Only comment i have with regards to the corolla mani/std throttle body is that theres no response or major pull from the engine below 3k (boring tootling around town) after 3k its where it comes alive this combo has time and time again helped when overtaking/getting past the twats on the motorway.in 5th from 60 mph @ 3k - 100 mph is where the acceleration is really at Also with regards to the powersteering pipes, one of the ports on the throttle body continuously suck air when the pipes are disconnected leading to a high idle ~2k all the time till blocked off. And the other one didnt seem to do anything? ill get someone to sit in the car and move the steering next time to test further. iirc when blocked off i had no driveability issues at all when going out for a drive so there shouldnt be a major problem.....could always put that one pipe on the extra vac outlets on the FTE mani to give it suction??amjad, alot needs to be blocked off the FTE mani the only real problematic ones being the ICV and the temp sensor on the front. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
enzo_e492901 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Because its a bypass valve there is one pipe on each side of the butterfly so at idle with both lines disconnected only one would suck. If the throttle was opened a little both would suck one more than the other. Working as it should the valve in the steering rack would allow the vacuum side to suck from the other side when the steering is moved.The IACV on the FTE manifold is a little harder to seal yeah but it looks about the right size for a 1/4 bps or npt plug it just need drilling out and tapping.Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redz11 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Thanks Gavin, I've got my idle back down to normal now on my stock TB. It sits a tiny bit higher than it used to, but I'm guessing that's because I didn't recalibrate my TPS, I just twisted it a bit.Sucks I couldn't get it to work though, I'm not a very patient person; it was doing my head in so I gave up I am hoping to get a 4efte TB and inlet manifold though which should still see an improvementi have the glanza(FTE) TB on mine, it fitted on the rolla(1st gen 4efe) mani i have. only trouble i had with was the TPS, after that and the idle valve was sorted it was all good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
enzo_e492901 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 i have the glanza(FTE) TB on mine, it fitted on the rolla(1st gen 4efe) mani i have. only trouble i had with was the TPS, after that and the idle valve was sorted it was all good Could you please enlighten me as to which IACV you used and how you achieved this please?The FTE throttle body only has part of an IACV on it. The rest of it is on the FTE manifold and that one does not work with the standard loom or ecu I believe. On the standard throttle body the whole IACV is on the bottom.Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 i have the glanza(FTE) TB on mine, it fitted on the rolla(1st gen 4efe) mani i have. only trouble i had with was the TPS, after that and the idle valve was sorted it was all good Lee I'm tempted to take a trip up North and get Chris to do those upgrades on mine! Oh and Asad's right about the Corolla manifold, it's definitely better than stock, but not much to shout about below 3krpm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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