ste91 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Just wanted a few more opinions on them, thinking of getting one next year to use as a weekend/occasional track day or on a drag strip (not aiming to beat anyone, just to have fun in). If funds allow then I think I'll get one, and keep the Rover as a daily driver. I'd start with a non turbo one and then move on to a turbo once I've got some experience in one. I have a mate (TB Developments) who builds these for a living, so working on it wouldn't be a problem, turbo engine swap wouldn't be a problem, etc... (link in my sig).Basically I've been considering another CRX, or a Starlet GT, or something along those lines but after being around a lot of MR2's and actually thinking about it, it's more logical to get a car that's designed to be a mid engined rear drive sports car from the beginning, instead of trying to turn a cheap FWD hatchback into a "racer". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starlet__SR Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Just wanted a few more opinions on them, thinking of getting one next year to use as a weekend/occasional track day or on a drag strip (not aiming to beat anyone, just to have fun in). If funds allow then I think I'll get one, and keep the Rover as a daily driver. I'd start with a non turbo one and then move on to a turbo once I've got some experience in one. I have a mate (TB Developments) who builds these for a living, so working on it wouldn't be a problem, turbo engine swap wouldn't be a problem, etc... (link in my sig).Basically I've been considering another CRX, or a Starlet GT, or something along those lines but after being around a lot of MR2's and actually thinking about it, it's more logical to get a car that's designed to be a mid engined rear drive sports car from the beginning, instead of trying to turn a cheap FWD hatchback into a "racer".Ask Hou. He's had one for quite a while.D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza_cl Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I had a rev4 turbo, dont bother with the na they suck balls. The turbo's arnt scary and if your that worried just buy a boost controller with duel maps for low boost and high Tim will be able to advice you on the best model as well but i personally would only go rev3 or above ;). Can be pretty thirsty (mine was) but honestly best driving possession to date i'v ever had was in my rev4. such a nice place to sit and be! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starlet__SR Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I had a rev4 turbo, dont bother with the na they suck balls. The turbo's arnt scary and if your that worried just buy a boost controller with duel maps for low boost and high Tim will be able to advice you on the best model as well but i personally would only go rev3 or above ;). Can be pretty thirsty (mine was) but honestly best driving possession to date i'v ever had was in my rev4. such a nice place to sit and be!You get that feeling as if you're doing more than driving it dont you lol? The whole cockpit feel. Similar the the Del Sol I hadD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 If you want the "driver's" Mk2 make sure it's a Rev 1. Reasons:1 - Lighter2 - More supercar-like suspension goemetry.3 - No power steering, no ABS, better for driver input.If you want all the toys get a later one.The reason the Rev 2> wasn't as nimble was because Toyota found out that the average person actually isn't up to driving something that's like a supercar - so people kept crashing them. As far as I can tell the reason is you can drive it right up to the limit of traction in a fast corner because it's so well balanced, but if you then come off the throttle mid corner you'll swap ends.The later cars do things like dive TWICE the amount under braking due to the changes Toyota made.And ok the later n/a ones are more powerful than earlier ones, but due to the extra weight they are not any faster!I would get a nice rev 1 GT, or a cheap turbo with a blown engine, and do a V6 swap.Or look for a ready made V6 one, they are out there.(I've got a Rev 1, but it's the slow one - oops.... )Watch for rotten sills / arches, and high milage engines (I bought a GT, I knew the cills were gone which I was welding but the engine turned out to be toast at 160k so I had to scrap it - ie went on eBay for £90!!!)....and the low power 3SFE "coupe" version I got by mistake.Lastly the calipers are NASTY and are nearly always seize - luckily there is a solution! Here's mine: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hou Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Had the Mr2 for about a year, rev3 UK na tbar. Good fun to drive but a bitch to work on. Why not go for a mk1 though, might be ugliest but handle the best.........then turbo it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 The Mk1's got a bigger engine bay funnily enough! Handling between a Mk1 and a Rev1 Mk2 isn't a million miles apart, the Mk2 has better grip out of corners but the Mk1 is more chuckable.They will be more rotten by now though. Here's what I found under my Mk1 (still off the road, the Mk2 is a "runabout"): I'd already done this!Little buggers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paulgtt Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 i had a rev1 gt turbo t-bar, wasn't the best example so only had it 6 months. seemed quite a good car though apart from the niggly problems with it!! the turbos are quick cars Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Ah, that's a good point, there are three roof types:1. T-Bar, nice but heavier/more flex.2. "Moon roof" (sunroof).3. Tin-top, these are JDM import only as far as I know and are the best for a track car, lightest and strongest. (possibly more insurance on an import though) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 would agree with some of the comments above about the n/a's ..not really worth it..my own opinion.. go with a rev3/4/5 specially if you wanna tune it... 3/4/5's have thicker cylinder walls, better head gasket and inlet manifold, MAP not MAF, standard management is a lot better also, think the heads may be a tad different too but im not 100% sure.. speak to luke @ pacific works..hes one of the main guys in mr's and knows them out the back of his hand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 I think I'm set on a mk2 rev 3 onwards N/A to start with, insurance costs and inexperience to RWD being the main reasons. 170bhp will be enough to start with.It'll be as fast as anything I've had before and I don't want to jump straight in at the deep end with a 240bhp mid engined rear drive car. Has anyone actually got any feedback on owning/driving one? Being sat in one is nice, feels like it was made for a purpose, nice cosey interior. Will be good to finally get back in a Toyota. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I've been trying to get exact figures to make the point about the weight etc, but the internet is very chinese whispers about kerb weight etc. Found this lot:From Carfolio:1990 (119bhp sSFE) Coupe - 1265kg - 0-60 9.3sec1990 (154bhp 3SGE) GT - 1275kg - 0-60 8.0sec1996 (168bhp 3SGE) GT - 1280kg - 0-60 7.5secFrom Wikipedia:1991 T-top Turbo = 1262kg1991 n/a (normal roof?) = 1179kgChanges to the suspension geometry, tire sizes and power steering in 1992/93 were made in response to journalist reports that the MR2 was prone to "snap-oversteer". As a counterpoint to the snap-oversteer phenomenon of the MR2, other journalists point out that most mid-engine and rear engine sports and super cars exhibit similar behaviour, and that a change to the driver's response to oversteer is really the cause. In any car, braking shifts the weight forward, and acceleration to the rear. When drivers enter a corner with too much speed, and lift the throttle mid-corner, the weight transfers forward causing the rear suspension to toe-out the tires, the recipe for cut-throttle oversteer, or even a spin. When improper steering inputs were made attempting to correct this non-power-on oversteer, the rear of the MR2 would swing one way, then wildly (and quickly) the otherâ??thus the term "snap" oversteer. Toyota elected to change the MR2 suspension and tires to reduce the likelihood that this would occur, though many drivers would lament the change and claim that it "neutered" the sharp edge the MR2 was known for.[18] Toyota claimed that the changes were made "for drivers whose reflexes were not those of Formula One drivers." [19]http://www.pistonheads.com/GASSING/topic.a...=0&t=573990UK MarketRev 1 + 2, coupe and T-Bar.3SGE engined N/A (GTi 2.0) 158bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph3SFE engined N/A 119bhp, very slow!Rev 3, 4 + 53SGE engined N/A 173bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph Rev 5BEAMS engined N/A approx 190bhp 0-60 6.5 (quite rare and sought after)Jap MarketRev 1 + 2 (coupe and t-bar)3SGE engined N/A (G-Limited) 158bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph3SFE engined N/A 119bhp, very slow!3SGTE engined Turbo (GT+GT-S) 220bhp 0-60 5.7, 155-160mphRev 3, 4 + 53SGE engined N/A (G-Limited) 173bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph3SGTE engined Turbo (GT+GT-S) 241bhp 0-60 5.2, 155-160mphRev 5BEAMS engined N/A approx 190bhp 0-60 6.5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I think I'm set on a mk2 rev 3 onwards N/A to start with, insurance costs and inexperience to RWD being the main reasons. 170bhp will be enough to start with.It'll be as fast as anything I've had before and I don't want to jump straight in at the deep end with a 240bhp mid engined rear drive car. Has anyone actually got any feedback on owning/driving one? Being sat in one is nice, feels like it was made for a purpose, nice cosey interior. Will be good to finally get back in a Toyota. my bro had one...handled really really well just a standard setup! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 very usefull topic, thanx for sharing your info kerri Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 No problem! Just did a trackday at Brands Hatch in mine - did pretty well! There were three Mk2s there, one of them span at Paddock Hill in front of me....! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billy SR Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 crx man will be worth it once money has been thrown in to get the thing spic and spanmy friend (working at homebase and on a tight budget) bought one with no mot or tax and about a million problems for £550a lot of filler, fibreglass, 10 mot's and countless man hours later(the wheels were cheaper than one replacement honda wheel after kerbing one) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 I loved my CRX, was a good car, would have another one but only if I knew it was pristine... but of course one in that condition is going to be worth a lot of £££...I think an MR2 is definately what I want though. Same straight line performance as a CRX aslong as you get a rev 3 onwards (very similar 0-60 time), but with a MR setup rather than FF, and it's a better base to build off potential future upgrades, an MR2 turbo vs turbo'd CRX, I'd rather have the MR2.Also it's more of a dedicated and focused car, whereas the CRX although they are awesome they are only based on a front drive hatchback. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billy SR Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 probably easier to get parts for in all fairness Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 I have a mate in the same town who builds MR2's for a living. Engine swap, turbo upgrades, fully rebuilt engine, pretty much anything I want can be done just 5 minutes down the road. Which is why I'm not worried about the awkward location of the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 There's a 2.2 version of the 'FE engine (5SFE), I'm pondering building a 2.2 3SGE (in effect a 5SGE) n/a engine in a Rev 1 tintop.As a rough guide (in theory) it would turn the 159bhp version of the 3SGE into 174.9bhp, and the 177bhp version into 194.7bhp before fitting anything aftermarket. Has to be said that power really isn't everything - I outpaced loads of cars (inc a Porsch) round brands hatch the other day with my weedy 119 ponies.Your mate has WMS brakes if I'm not mistaken! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starlet__SR Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 There's a 2.2 version of the 'FE engine (5SFE), I'm pondering building a 2.2 3SGE (in effect a 5SGE) n/a engine in a Rev 1 tintop.As a rough guide (in theory) it would turn the 159bhp version of the 3SGE into 174.9bhp, and the 177bhp version into 194.7bhp before fitting anything aftermarket. Has to be said that power really isn't everything - I outpaced loads of cars (inc a Porsch) round brands hatch the other day with my weedy 119 ponies.Your mate has WMS brakes if I'm not mistaken! You've got alot of patience doing all the rust haha. I built a nova turbo for a friend once and first job was getting the shell upto scratch, the rust was a pig lol. Never again lolD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ste91 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 There's a 2.2 version of the 'FE engine (5SFE), I'm pondering building a 2.2 3SGE (in effect a 5SGE) n/a engine in a Rev 1 tintop.As a rough guide (in theory) it would turn the 159bhp version of the 3SGE into 174.9bhp, and the 177bhp version into 194.7bhp before fitting anything aftermarket. Has to be said that power really isn't everything - I outpaced loads of cars (inc a Porsch) round brands hatch the other day with my weedy 119 ponies.Your mate has WMS brakes if I'm not mistaken! Yeah he's got WMS brakes on his Glanza. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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