steve-gers Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 My car has started leaking oil and its kind of hard to tell where it's coming from to be precise. It usually leaves 2 small spots (one at front and one at back of sump) overnight and occasionally another small spot in between the 2. Noticed recently that the engine side of the drive shaft and the bracket for the alternator have some oil on them (although it could be grease as I had a burst CV gaiter) and also the sump is quite oily. I'm guessing either dipstick oil seal, sump needs resealed or (hopefully not) crank oil seal. Any ideas of how I can check exactly where it is coming from? Quote
Asad Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 Probably the crank seal, clean it all up from the engine and monitor it....the sump in my experience never leak unless they have been opened before it usually the crank seals Quote
steve-gers Posted August 9, 2012 Author Posted August 9, 2012 How many hours labour at a garage do you reckon? Don't have time to do it myself due to being grasscutting season at work lol Quote
jayc-glanza17 Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 ive recently had same symtoms...but fixed it...now check around head area to make sure its not coming from their and dropping down..distributor o ring is common to fail, giving the symtoms u have..to check crank oil seal, u got to remve timing covers top and bottom and crank pulley ideally to rule that out..i did all that then found two drops, so re sealed sump and fixed it.. Quote
kingo228 Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 A oil leak has just appeared on mine , around the back alternator area, im thinking its that sump seal as it looks like its blowing back on the the steering rack, as i resealed the sump 1000 miles ago Quote
jayc-glanza17 Posted August 13, 2012 Posted August 13, 2012 check dipstick too...ive done mine and no oil on sump, just few drips, and last thing i got to do is the dipstick tube.. Quote
steve-gers Posted August 23, 2012 Author Posted August 23, 2012 Thanks for all the help. Checked the dipstick oil seal and when I removed it the rubber was very perished and so brittle that when I bent it, it snapped. So have replaced that and seems to have cured it but will keep an eye on it. Quote
steve-gers Posted November 16, 2012 Author Posted November 16, 2012 Unfortunately this now seems to have re-appeared it is mainly covering the boot for the steering rack, lower control arm and driveshaft with oil. Will be changing to a manual box at some point soon so may be a good idea to check it out then. Quote
daveEP Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) If your doin a manual conver mate u would be as well as pulling the engine out with the box and getting to the bottom of why its leaking. that way if it is a crank oil seal it will be easyer to do and easyer to mate the manual box to the engine and dropping it all back in together. Edited November 19, 2012 by daveEP Quote
steve-gers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Posted November 20, 2012 Yeah think that's what I'm going to do mate. What would I need to take off to get them out together? Was thinking bonnet to make it easier, rad, obviously all hoses pipes and wires off, strut brace..... Quote
Nanglebadger Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 worth checking the oil pump seal, or the oil pump itself.mine leaked for over a year in that location, we tried everything, sumps, crank shaft, breathers to relieve pressure.turned out the oil pump was cracked.Phil. Quote
steve-gers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Posted November 20, 2012 any guides to check/change the oil pump? Quote
corofin12345 Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 you sure its not the gearbox oil seal..? if its coming out there the drive will fling the oil everywhere when driving Quote
steve-gers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Posted November 20, 2012 wrong side of the engine to be gearbox oil seal mate. Will find out for sure when the engine is out though as I will be changing all 3 belts anyway. Heard of a proper pikey way to change timing belt but it may be easier than I thought. Cut the old belt in half or smaller (width wise) then take the tension off a little bit and slip the new belt over so it gets a grip then cut the old belt completely and pull it off. No need for checking timing marks etc Quote
daveEP Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 Yeh mate u can get the engine and box out all in one go. Thats what i did. Then that way u can just check the full engine time consuming but troubleshooting the prob for good. Quote
corofin12345 Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 gearbox oil seals are on both sides... i suppose the question is, is this loss of oil showing on the dipstick? Quote
steve-gers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Posted November 20, 2012 Yeah I know, but pretty dry where the shafts go into the box. Very slight loss of oil on the engine dipstick needs topped up about once a month, no loss at all on gearbox dipstick. Quote
corofin12345 Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 thats out of the way so.. could be a few leaks, have you check the oil feed/return line from the turbo? Quote
steve-gers Posted November 20, 2012 Author Posted November 20, 2012 Yeah it was leaking a bit before but only dripping not spraying. Put TD04 on a few weeks ago with brand new TD braides hose and its stopped dripping now but leak obviously still there. Quote
rmsnoel Posted December 17, 2012 Posted December 17, 2012 wrong side of the engine to be gearbox oil seal mate. Will find out for sure when the engine is out though as I will be changing all 3 belts anyway. Heard of a proper pikey way to change timing belt but it may be easier than I thought. Cut the old belt in half or smaller (width wise) then take the tension off a little bit and slip the new belt over so it gets a grip then cut the old belt completely and pull it off. No need for checking timing marks etcAlways check your timing marks, its free and bent valves can be expensive. Just to add to this thread, about the crank seal leaking on our 4e engines, Ive seen on two engines where the crank seal has actually marked the crank so when you are fitting a new seal, do it carefully, lube it nicely and then rotate engine and check it has a good contact. Plus I wonder if excess crankcase pressure causes the seals to leak? Most vauxhalls leak at the crank because the pvc valve gets blocked and it seems a shame to spend so much to fix the seal when a £5 pvc was the cause. Glad I have a Toyota Quote
corofin12345 Posted December 17, 2012 Posted December 17, 2012 Always check your timing marks, its free and bent valves can be expensive. Just to add to this thread, about the crank seal leaking on our 4e engines, Ive seen on two engines where the crank seal has actually marked the crank so when you are fitting a new seal, do it carefully, lube it nicely and then rotate engine and check it has a good contact. Plus I wonder if excess crankcase pressure causes the seals to leak? Most vauxhalls leak at the crank because the pvc valve gets blocked and it seems a shame to spend so much to fix the seal when a £5 pvc was the cause. Glad I have a Toyotaive seen 2 cranks marked from the crank seal cause the seal hardens up over time.. couldnt believe the difference between a new and old one.. and yes, excessive crank case pressure can force oil past the seals.. Quote
Frankieflowers Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 Hi guys. How do I replace the front and rear crankshaft oil seals on the 4efte? Thanks Quote
RoyalDutchie Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 2 hours ago, Frankieflowers said: Hi guys. How do I replace the front and rear crankshaft oil seals on the 4efte? Thanks I've send you a repair manual some time ago which describes how to replace them the way Toyota intended. Quote
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