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Fuel cut feeling but no eml?


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Firstly, I'm running a wepr ct9 power up kit with a tial f38 wastegate, using a greddy profec a I'm running 0.6 on low and 0.75/0.8 high, on a stock Ecu.

It seems sometimes if I'm in high boost and usually if I go quite quickly about 3k revs in 2nd but not hitting much boost(kinda like hanging on the power waiting for the moment to boost it) and when I floor it and hot full boost it sometimes jolts like fuel cut, has a loud backfire, but there is no eml on the dash like I used to get?

Surely If this is fuel cut then why am I still creeping with an external wastegate? It doesn't look like it does when I watch the gauge usually but I never watch it if I'm blasting it like that lol

My boost controller has a dip switch on the back for 'when overboost occurs' maybe I should try this?

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If your externally gated i dont think it would overboost although its a possibility what kind of external gate u got? Other things it could be is spark plugs or it could be to do with timing. Strange one really. Best thing you could do would be to get and EMB.

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Why are you going plug and play when for the same money you can have EMB and a map. It will give you more power and better fuel consumption. Fuel pump is a possibility and changing it to a Walbro would be in your interests anyway.

If you decide you still want plug and play then buy that 1st then start to change things like the fuel pump that way u will know when its sorted.

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I sold my plug and play for about £400, bought a emb with everything needed for about £200 and cost me £320 to get it installed and mapped?? so for the sake of a extra £120 and a much better map which is set up for your car is not a bad deal??

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If you are runnig a ct9 even a hybrid you will not gain much more power useing a EMU over a plug and play you will gain more power if you are useing a tdo4 because the boost level will be upped and its a much bigger turbo!

Funny how JAM got 250bhp out of there car useing a hiflow turbo 5E and there plug and play ecu :)

Also Alex you could just be hitting fuel cut but soon as you get that feeling then liffting your foot of the throttle so the eml isnt comeing on! or if it is its flickered on very quickly

Do a dignostick test and that will tell you wants going on befor you start spending money on things you dont need to spend money on

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=EFI+self-diagnosis+system

Edited by micky boy
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Funny how JAM got 250bhp out of there car useing a hiflow turbo 5E and there plug and play ecu :)

Its not funny, its what worked for them :)

i wasnt doubting the plug and plays just providing another option and future proofing.

Plug and play is good, if you know the spec and your car is similar to that, as well as your happy running a CT9/hybrid. Some say they are ok for TD04 but it leaned out on mine when boosting.

Alex have you tried playing with the gain etc to try and stablise the boost? your controller can induce boost spikes

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Also Alex you could just be hitting fuel cut but soon as you get that feeling then liffting your foot of the throttle so the eml isnt comeing on! or if it is its flickered on very quickly

Do a dignostick test and that will tell you wants going on befor you start spending money on things you dont need to spend money on

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=EFI+self-diagnosis+system

The thing is though I used to always see the eml, sometimes even before it cut in 5th?

As for the boost controller inducing spikes it could be, my

Controller has an offset rather than a gain I think, it says in the manual "offset should be used in external wastegate mode to ensure the boost controllers boost readout matches that of your own boost gauge"

Now when we were setting it up we turned it up to match my gauge and it cut, so

We left it at 0, but could lower it to minus numbers?

There's also a dip switch on the back for 'when overboost occurs'

It does seem to have stopped now I've turned down the boost a little, but why does it seem to only do it if I'm in second, on the revs but off boost, and as soon as I plant it(is it boosting faster than the boost controller can stop it spiking?)

Because if I start of at low revs in second and plant it so full boost has to build up it doesn't seem to do it

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sound like boost spike causing over boost then controller shuts it down to safe parameter, hard to diagnose on the net. Make sure your boost controller is setup properly, or get some one who knows, to do it as its very easy to kill your engine.

p.s what boost controller is it?

Edited by Broony
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Controller isn't shutting it down the controller drops to stock boost of it reaches an

Alarm level set by me, it doesn't just cut off

Body controller has been wired up per the manuals and the learn mode has been carried out, what else could be wrong?

Also, how could I kill the engine it's not going mentally over

Mate, so if I installed a pnp Ecu at 1 bar if it spiked to 1.05 occasionally that wouldn't be the end of the world

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Haha steady on fella, better safe than sorry until you know you fueling is correct a/f ratio theres a good read on plug and plays in the wiki. as for the controller shutting down I meant it will drop to the safe setting which should be stock boost or what ever you set it to if your over boosting (boost spikes)

As for installing it thats fine but remember all cars are different when setting boost.

Your probs right .05 spike will normally be fine you just need to make sure it's setup correctly as no one can predict how much boost will spike, rolling road is your best bet, or frequent blasts up a quiet road until you fine tune it that's going to be your best be to solve your problem

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Didn't mean to sound arsy mate sorry if that's what you thought lol

Yeh the controller can do that but obvs if I was running 0.8 I need to set the limit at 0.9 which is no good as

Fuel cut is 0.85 lol

How you mean all cars are different? It has a lerner feature where you do one run to learn the

Stock

Boost and one to learn the boost curve which I did, although sometimes the readout on the gauge says 0.8 and the Ebc will flicker between 0.7 and 0.8, aside from that though it was working fine?

How do you mean though it could easily kill the engine im scared now lol

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no worries fella^^

The learning curve learns how you drive it ( how boost builds through the rev range) and that may not always be ideal in all conditions as you say it doesnt happen if you dont floor it but progressivly increase the revs.

all cars are different in how the boost controller works i.e my setting may not work on you car even if i was running the same mods. Its what works for your car.

I may just be a case of manually adjusting your settings- trial and error until boost is steady accross the range.

im not trying to scare you but setting boost can end in tears if your not cautious as long as your not over boosting you should be fine.

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Ah I see, well it dont seem to over boost, If it does its by like 0.5 bar if that and then it pegs it back down, if I'm to get an Ecu and run it 1 bar if it did overboost that tiny amount it shouldn't cause any problems should it, as long as its not like when I had an internal wastegate and when set at 0.4 it would creep to fuel cut? Lol

Tomorrow I'll link to the manuals and explain my installation make sure its correct?

Edited by A L 3 X
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Funny how JAM got 250bhp out of there car useing a hiflow turbo 5E and there plug and play ecu :)

wasnt realy a plug and play at the time was it tho jam mapped the daughter board to suit the mods on the car just like you would with a emb.

Edited by _shaun_
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wasnt realy a plug and play at the time was it tho jam mapped the daughter board to suit the mods on the car just like you would with a emb.

And did JAM tell you that? out of there own mouth? i dont think so! JAM made the ecu to self adjust so when ever they where on a track it saved time mapping it everytime they ajdusted something on there car! Every JAM ECU is the same and every plug and play ecu dose a different job the Blitz ecu tends to over fuel at top end to keep things safe and cool as it was built for a ct9 blitz k200v and a ct9 gets very hot so extra fuel is shot into the cylinder head to keep things cool!

My point is if you are planing on going for 200bhp then a plug and play is the way to go especially if you only have a few mods on your car if you had an EMU and got it mapped with a few mods on your car what would be the point in getting it mapped untill you have all the mods on to get 200bhp but not everyone can get the money together to get it mapped as well as the mods that are going to get you 200bhp so if you went for a P&P you can add the mods as you go along and it will adjust as you go :)

Edited by micky boy
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JAM made the ecu to self adjust so when ever they where on a track it saved time mapping it everytime they ajdusted something on there car! Every JAM ECU is the same and every plug and play ecu dose a different job the Blitz ecu tends to over fuel at top end to keep things safe and cool as it was built for a ct9 blitz k200v and a ct9 gets very hot so extra fuel is shot into the cylinder head to keep things cool!

and did JAM tell you that out there own mouth? and who was it at blitz that told you the ecu tends to over fuel at top end to keep things safe and cool as it was built for a ct9 blitz k200v and a ct9 gets very hot so extra fuel is shot into the cylinder head to keep things cool? i wasnt aware you worked for them :p anywayyyyy....

i agree the plug and play works to a degree but after running a blitz access for a few months then swaping to a emu i no there is a very nice difference to be seen between the two. sure people will use a plug and play and theres nothing realy wrong with it but now u can get a emb and have it mapped for less than a plug and play now which will give u better power and in my case even noticed a difference to mpg

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and did JAM tell you that out there own mouth? and who was it at blitz that told you the ecu tends to over fuel at top end to keep things safe and cool as it was built for a ct9 blitz k200v and a ct9 gets very hot so extra fuel is shot into the cylinder head to keep things cool? i wasnt aware you worked for them :p anywayyyyy....

i agree the plug and play works to a degree but after running a blitz access for a few months then swaping to a emu i no there is a very nice difference to be seen between the two. sure people will use a plug and play and theres nothing realy wrong with it but now u can get a emb and have it mapped for less than a plug and play now which will give u better power and in my case even noticed a difference to mpg

Haha i though you might say something like that :p But anyways i do have a very close friend that is from Japan and he tells me what i need to know :p not just lissen to what everyone says over the internet :p Also i 've owned 3blitz ecu's in the past and i am runnig one on my car now and all of them have ran abit rich at the top end but saying that i do know people that have ran the blitz ecu and its ran lean near the top end so i suppose it dose depend on what set up you have and the health of your engine etc!..And if you have a look at some of the graps with people that have ran with the blitz ecu most of them tend to run abit rich so im just going off experience!

Also didnt you go from a ct9 with a blitz ecu then hopped to the TD04 and EMU? If so you are going to noticed a big diffrance in power and fuel as you arent on boost all the time like you are with a CT9!

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nah i went from a ct9 on the blitz ran it with the td04 for awhile then i got offerd a emu for a steal so got that mapped on the td04. the blitz ran mega rich on both set ups.i loved my blitz when i had it but after going for the emu i was more than happy with the difference.

the thing that bugs me about plug and plays is everyone seems to have all this info on them and how they work but as u quite rightly said at the start none of us have actauly spoke to blitz/jam or any others. my taking on them is the daughter board acts much in the same way the emb were by it takes the standard signals and tweeks them to work with the stock ecu. so at some stage they would have been mapped by someone to suit a specific car set up with the likes of a wideband were fueling could be checked again much the same as a emb.

with this in mind theres nothing to stop u actauly taking a emb mapped for someone else set up and fit it to your car and let the stock ecu and lamba trim the fueling a little to give the "self learning" that the plug and plays are ment to have while maintaining all the stock sensors. in theory it would be much the same as using a play and plug. but i am sure if someone posted up they planed todo this everyone would highly recommend they didnt.

of course thats just my take on how the plug and plays work as none of us actauly no the facts on them its realy just down to best guesses but with my general understanding of how mapping works i see this as the most logical way to how the ecu works

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nah i went from a ct9 on the blitz ran it with the td04 for awhile then i got offerd a emu for a steal so got that mapped on the td04. the blitz ran mega rich on both set ups.i loved my blitz when i had it but after going for the emu i was more than happy with the difference.

the thing that bugs me about plug and plays is everyone seems to have all this info on them and how they work but as u quite rightly said at the start none of us have actauly spoke to blitz/jam or any others. my taking on them is the daughter board acts much in the same way the emb were by it takes the standard signals and tweeks them to work with the stock ecu. so at some stage they would have been mapped by someone to suit a specific car set up with the likes of a wideband were fueling could be checked again much the same as a emb.

with this in mind theres nothing to stop u actauly taking a emb mapped for someone else set up and fit it to your car and let the stock ecu and lamba trim the fueling a little to give the "self learning" that the plug and plays are ment to have while maintaining all the stock sensors. in theory it would be much the same as using a play and plug. but i am sure if someone posted up they planed todo this everyone would highly recommend they didnt.

of course thats just my take on how the plug and plays work as none of us actauly no the facts on them its realy just down to best guesses but with my general understanding of how mapping works i see this as the most logical way to how the ecu works

I agree with everything you have just said :)

All i was saying from the start is the plug and plays are a good ecu if you are planning on tunning your car over time as you dont have to keep getting it mapped every time you put a new mod on your car etc! I put a PFC on one of my old glanzas and didnt notice much diffrance from the plug and play ecu but i would of notice a hell of a diffrance if id of gone td04 etc but running a ct9 @1bar you arnet going to notice much diffrance if you went from a plug and play to a EMU @1bar on a ct9!

Edited by micky boy
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  • 1 month later...

I didn't really run mine long enough to get a definite answer on fuel consumption, but I could get 250km to the top half indicated of the fuel tank.

My GT creeps to 1.05/1.1 but I've not had any juddering apart from when I had water down the 3rd plug hole

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