gibby1980

Hi all, I got this working finally. I changed my Dizzy, used the 24-1 Crank and Cam pickup, and lowered the coil dwell from 3ms to 2.5 ms(got that on a supra forum). While I had these settings in place earlier I was advised the dizzy might be going bad so hence the switch. The car is running much smoother and the issues seen before are now gone. I still have more work to do as I have the boost solenoid connected to the ems-4 and have the boost governed by rpm currently. Ideally I'll like to switch this to boost by speed.

Thanks!

Reading in 2020. Good info lives on forever gents!

Hi Sam, Thank you for the input. I will gap the plugs a bit closer to see if things improve. I will go COP (From the 2zz motor) with a modified dizzy (Similar to AEM EPM unit with the 24-1 nissan wheel and optical sensor ) if I don't see any positive change come next week. Gibby

Rich at startup? Rich while running? Cut some of the fuel from the fuel VE table. Who tuning your car?

Good day all, Is anyone running the AEM EMS-4 on their 4efte/5efte with the stock ignition (dizzy/distributor)? I am asking because I seem to have "noise" on the cam input which cause the car to sputter & jerk between 3k-4k rpm. Once you clear this area, the car is smooth. I logged and reviewed and it's not lean in the specified area. I've read you can use resistor to clean this up so the car can rev out clean but I have not seen a write up or pics on how to do this. Have anyone installed this EMS before? If yes, did you all have similar problem and how did you solve it. Any infor

On the gauge, at idle you should be reading -20 or a bit more.

What turbo do you have on? Any vacuum leaks noticeable on the boost gauge?

Try changing that map sensor and do a diagnostics test again. See if it's the same. Does the software for the dastek show the same 8psi? I would see that in tunerstudio for the Megasquirt. Confirm if the dastek is tuned for the higher rpms/boost?

What ECU are you running by chance? If standalone, is it tuned for boost?

take a datalog and see what is happening..... I had an issue like that with the Megasquirt. The overboost protection value was too low and I also re-scaled my tables. Had to remap.

I have a gt2871r on my 5E. This spools way better than the 4E The gt2860rs is better suited to the 4E

Spend once, go TD04 and save on the minor upgrades you will eventually grow tired of. I went through all those mods and looking back, it's wasted money, time and effort. Go big one time, enjoy the benefits. In my case, I sorry I didn't go gt28 one time, TD04 is no comparison to it.

That manifold is sweet. What management are you planning to use?

Garrett does not sell the .48 anymore.

Unplug your TPS and test drive the car. Classic signs of a bad TPS imo.

Pump fuel..CT9 hybrid....presently using the jam on my gt2871r at 10 psi Megasquirt soon finished.

I ran 18 psi with my jam ecu with afrs mostly in the 10's ..10.7 the leanest. I just had an upgraded pump and changed my fuel filter as I deem fit to ensure I have fuel...install a Wideband A proper supply of fuel.

Hybrid is better than a stock CT9. More power and same characteristics as the stock turbine. Couple it with the Jam ecu at 18 psi. and your about to have some fun.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/page/articles.html/_/tuning-4efte/stage-1-200bhp-stock-engine-stock-turbo-r35

The seals by the cam gears could be also. There is a little cap on on the intake cam side that a little silicone is needed to stop leaking. If you can get the plastic guard off, take a look in and see if these seals around the cam area are leaking.

My boost levels are 10psi flat, 14 (low boost). 18 (high).

I have a JAM on my ep82 with a toytuning Hybrid (I know, quite old). The JAM over fuels even at with stock fuel components. On my wideband (AEM) you read 10 flat once the boost hits 10-12psi. I guess that was done to compensate for the timing increase you will notice @ 4K rpms onwards.

What do your AFRs look like at 1bar?