Clinternational Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) So little update. Did go for a little bit of Rectangular so got some meat.... Manifold needs to get sandblasted tomorrow duo to a better flow and no carbage in the pipes Bottle heater with thermostat! ( Im using the hot water from the engine as heater. Where did all the NOS go haha. Wanted to make a movie with the new nozzle .044 but by the time i wanted to do that the bottle seems to be emty. It muste be arround 60 BAR or more Edited December 2, 2014 by Clinternational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 End of the week i'll be getting a new NOS bottle and therefore new power out of a bottle . I think if i got bored on the .044 nozzle i will try the .047 nozzle I also think that 200bhp on the crank is the maximum on stock internals from the 2E-E engine. Next week im going to build the turbo and manifold and new exhaust system on the car. ( manifold will be done ) I want to experience the sound of pssssssssssst if the turbo spools good enough haha. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Well little update and a list off the mods on the car. OUTSIDE:Color : Matte antraciet metallic/pearlCustom polished RH wheels ET35 7J 15 inch 195/50/15 back, 195/45/15 front, weight: 13.5 Kilo each pretty darn heavy.Tinted almost every window exept the windscreen.Custom led strips in both headlights. And fixed the chrome layer.US runninglights unit fixed corner lights lit up and blink when needed. Color white. Disabled the turn signals in the bumper.Some xenon 35W unitsCustom grill Removed all keylocks on the car and wiper on the tailgate and water spraynozzle.Relocated the numberplate from tailgate to beneath the bumper with led light.Bumper in same color. UNDER THE BODY!Lowered the car a little, still oem springs and new oem shocks. Rear glanza spring/coil seat and springs.Modified Whiteline rear swaybar.Glanza rear disc brakes.Goodridge ssteel braided brake lines.Custom drill rig island bearings ( twisted beam )Cusco panhard rod double spherical bearings. ( New custom panhard rod laying arround somewhere )Stainless steel exhaust system 2 inch with custom muffler. ( 2.5 inch ) front needs to be replaced duo turbosetup.Custom ssteel lower under brace.Wideband sensor Exhaust wrapEP82 GTT Hubs + Wishbone Celica GT 4x4 3sgte Front calipers + camry v6 brake adaptors.Ferrodo ds2500 Race pads.Toyota Prius Cross drilled front brake discs 25x255. 4 x 100Major Caster / anti-lift upgrade and spherical bearings on the wishbone.2 x TRD bushes ( front wishbone )Rear axle 10mm wider, Front axle 22mm wider duo to spacer for the allignment on the prius brakediscs.Reinforce the chassie ( welding ) UNDER THE HOOD"Group A spec engine" 2E-E 1.3 12 Valve engine 1993 +-125.000 km Head ported flowed and cleaned.New sealsOem valvesTRD Valve springs,TRD Camshaft 280 degree rally type big valve lift. TRD 0.6mm tripple layer steel headgasket.TRD Clutch and Pressure plate4EFTE oem FlywheelCamry 2009 255cc InjectorsMagnecore 7.5mm red spark plug cables.NGK 7EIX Irridium spark plugsCamry brakemaster cylinder15 BAR water injection system with 5 litre reservoir and 0.2 nozzle 008 + water coolerFuel pressure regulator. Vacuum controlled and with VSV activation only allows 2.9 bar at full throttle. Without vacuum 2.5 barSupra JDM fuel pump10mm / 3/8 fuel line.RAV 4 Gasoline filter.Tripple core radiator.Volvo fan and thermostat controller,Custom automatic choke system.Mocal oil plate with thermostat and oil coolerRange rover V8 air filter box.Cold air intake setup Home made T-VIS system. 2 way Peugeot 307 throttle bodyCustom piggyback connected to the MAP sensor en alters the fuel supply.Maximum ignition advanced. Oil catch can 2 litreCustom SSteel front strut braceCusco Camber plates with new bearings and polished plateExhaust manifold wrapped.Heatshield EP8 Coolant reservoir relocatedBatterie Relocated in the trunkWindshield fluid reservoir Relocated rear interieur panel.Grey PCV valve drilled out on top off the rocker coverNOS Setup NX solenoid and NOS nozzle with .044 jetReplaced toyota horn with an renault twin horn snake designRefurbished Steering house and new rod to both ends and new rubber INSIDE THE CAR:EP82 DashboardEP82 GTT Sparco bezel Plasma platesMOMO steering wheel.MOMO gear knob.Aem wideband gaugeCheap boost gauge ( greddy boost gauge underway )Cheap oil pressure gaugeCheap air fuel ratio meter Oem seats Digital water temperature gaugeDigital oil temperature gauge.Aluminium Wiechers rollcage TYPE E/F 6 pointLogitech z-5500 multimedia surround sound system. Altered the inside on the active woofer Better wool Car mp3 player unit with TF card holderBatterie in de trunkWasher fluid reservoir behind drivers chair.Fast clips for the batterieTablet holder ( antitheft ) Still need to buy a tablet lolNos bottle 7.5KG + heating elementPower converter 12 to 220 Volt at 800 watts BUT still no turbo on the car.......................... yet Thursday the car will be professional alligned with laser. Front and rear.Then making an appointment at the dyno. With and without NOSThen adding turbo to the car.When engine survive i will dyno again i hope. Edited December 8, 2014 by Clinternational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 NOS Nozzle 047 insert.Appointment at the dyno made.Movie with new nos nozzle coming right up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Second gear has become useless. Nos jet 047. at 45 bar ? With bottle heater onSafety valve went open on the regulator. Car started to act weird...loss off power. Regulator has been modified after the movies. >http://youtu.be/tYNP0GUwisE>http://youtu.be/w-MMSOoAWLU Away goes the NOS :S :S :S About to tune the regulator Drilled the hole to 5mm. Taped M6 Thread added an Screw, removed the spring function.. Edited December 28, 2014 by Clinternational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Got the regulator fixed. I need arround 62 BAR = +- 900 PSI The best range for the bottle pressure is between 900 and 1100 PSI The movies made today ware approx 45 bar = 650 PSI So the jet size wont achive the designated BHP shot. Did some measuring todayCold bottle pressure is 430 PSI After driving arround for 30 minutes. 653 PSI Driving for 45 min 725 PSI 1 HOUR driving 797 PSI I need a faster heating mode Temperature today outside -1 degree celcius. Edited December 28, 2014 by Clinternational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Upgrade O-ring for the Distributor. Installed an viton O-ring 30mm x 4mm x 38mm instead of the NBR oem type size 31mm x 3.5mm x 37mm don't know why toyota uses an sloppy one. The viton variant is the perfect fit.Cost a little effort to place the distributor back thru the hole. But it's a tight fit and won't leak for an decade or so Above oem type. below Viton O-ring ( it fills the sleeve more wich is 5mm ) Made an new bracket for the nos bottle.And double the heating power. Need to achive 60 bar in less then 30 min. Still haven't test it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I never realised there was ao mu h involved with getting the nos system heated correctly but i does make sense. Cracking work as usual, always great to see what you've fabbed up to solve you issues Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dingo Del Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hey ... Great to see you having a go with almost everything You dad must be proud ... There's nothing like thinking out of the square.Which you seem to have adopted more than a few times. Personally I hate anything to do with NOS but good to see you learning about it as my bum knows more about duck shooting then I do NOSBut each to their own. As for the pic's .... I made dinner for two, fed the dog a full roast dinner after taking her for a 5 klm walk. and then sat down to eat my dinner after a shower ... Phew N that was just waiting for the first page pic's Huh I was warned ;) Nice one .... Well worth the wait One thing though. It appears you may not have the cross part of the main cage welded up ? is that so ?If so i would have it welded as if you are in a crash if may become a projectile, and you sit pretty close. Just asking . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Thank you morgey Yes the pressure is maintaned by the heated element. ( copper windings arround the bottle ) There are 400 Watt power bottle blankets for NOS on the market but cost way to much.The alternator then have to work very hard and will slow down the motor, i already added a 70mm lightweight pulley for the alternator so less load. I'm also seeking for lightweight bigger crank pulleyThe pressure that needs to be used is 900 / 1000psi and then it's liquid.Beyond this pressure it's gas and below also. AN N/A 1.3 engine got a lot of problems duo to the lack off torque.The lighter the drive train the better Hahaha Dingo you're funny haha NOS rocks especially when the rpm rise like a jetfighter it growlssssss.Yep the cross still needs to get welded.... asked it a year ago to my friend but... nothing happend yet GOT pierced by a tube But holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Few day's ago the engine got crippled.At an 100 bhp NOS shot the engine talked to me back saying prrrr prrrr prrrrr...i thought wtf... hmmmmm little detonation issue, Too lazy to retard the ignition, rules were clear on the holy NOS website.. LOLClutch pedal pressed.Engine offline.stopped to look onder the hood. Can't see anything. I thought gotto go home.Started the engine sounded like a impreza boxer engine and added with an little valve tik... I thought LOL had to keep the rpm above the 2000 then it will be ok to drive with it. below no power. At my house i checked the compression ratio . cyl 1 and 2 had 0 zero pressure. ( 0 BAR )Cylinder 3 did got 7 bar and cylinder 4 had 8 bar pressure. All cyl must have 13 bar normally. ( stock 9.5 ) 12 valve's were bend a little bit. Okay toyota power!! still can make my way home. My 2 litre catch can was filled with oil after 10 min of driving back, ROFL Will upload pics tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Haha what a way for it to go! You just going to dial it back a bit now and call that it? Assuming you're just dropping another 2e in there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 There are diffrent parts to an 1990 to 1992 and 1993 to 1995 2E-E engineAbove new type. Below old type Cleaned the donor piston and old cheap oil cooked to it. Weight all donor pistons So i am building an new 2E-E engine. Donor valve's 12 piecesand 4 donor pistons.Also used old piston rings from the second ring sleeve, they are 3.10mmThe piston rings on the top side were 2.80 / 2,85. Piston rings im using are 3.10mm on top sleeve and second sleeve. to achive more then 13 bar pressure. Also im going to polish the intake tunnel on the head job.And make the exhaust tunnel bigger Custom exhaust manifold would be fitted. Including the T4 turbo.And checking if the wastegate and actuator is working propely i will connect it only then to the throttle body. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 P.S The rod on cylinder number 1 has also been bend if you look closley. BUT. Don't forget i fired down almost 230 bhp onto an 1.3 N/A engine. If i werent lazy i't would have survived! The ignition is MAX advanced. As with NOS it has te be turned back. "Retard" New objective 250/300 bhp on paper with T4 on a 1.3 N/A!!!!!!! "Had an appointment at the dyno on januari the 27 at 12:00" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Have been doing some stuff. All valve's in the cylinder head were bend a little duo to the heat.So bought an donor engine to use parts from. luckily all valve's from the donor block were straight.I did not want cheap imitation valve's therefore the donor. Cylinder head is again ready for action. This cylinder head is again machined. Second time. Old en new gasket. Both Group A TRD 3 layer steel gasket 0.6mm for the ep701 2E but diffrent. Prepped the exhaust system to 2.5 inch. and flange usage.Downpipe photo needs to be made. Bought parts to rebuild the Cylinder block. Gaskets, O rings, bearings, oil filter, etc etc .First my cylinderwall looked like this. Nice looking mirror Engine has run about 65.000 miles when i bought it....I've run the engine to about 15.000 miles more. Less than 50 miles on NOS and this is the result i asume. Nos is pretty dry gas and got a lack of lubrication therefore it wear pretty quick, also it could be duo to a lean mixture. But 1 thing i've learned NOS usage is cool. But killing haha. I've used up to 20 litre in total. So no more NOS..............oh well I leave it only connected Engine block 45 Degree cross honed at my local engine workshop ( never used my cheap ass tripod honing tool that i bought for 15 quid Didn't trust it.) Cylinder honing is to my knowledge not as simple as 1.2.3The 45 degree cross honing is made for the oil to go in the scratches to form an layer of oil film voor de piston rings to lubricate. Thats why my piston rings turned out blue hard wear and to much heat. Removed the ugly edges were the oil from the cylinder head drains back to the bottom.BeforeAfter Made some extra oil squirters. ( 2E Engine got oem oil squirters to lubricate and cool the piston underneath and piston pen. Pretty good engine i thought. I made some sidewall squirting to cool and lubrication the wall on the sides better. The orifice i used is 0.040 ( 1 mm ) So it spray's nice and easy.OEM Squirters CUSTOM Also i've raised the oil pressure because of that modification ( extra oil sprayers )TRD Group A manual also state this action on raising the oil pressure this way. Donor vs myown ( what i've learned is that changing oil regular DOES make an diffrence, the donor engine was much oil sludge up duo to No or less maintenance. The dark one is the one from the donor engine. For all others who also want to raise the oil pressure e.g external oil cooler/radiator, add an washer on top of the spring cap. Then use the circle clip to lock all the parts. I've used an 1.5mm thick washer. REMEMBER if the spring is to tight or you don't like to warm the engine up properly ( low rpm shifting during cold start ).Leave the spring pressure normal and don't touch it .... ( it's actually an pressure relief valve ) it opens if the oil pressure is to high ( mostly during cold start ) cold oil is always thick + high rpm = Damage. Having to much oil pressure can result in engine problems and/or loss of oil ( thru the oil seals and or o rings ) Use with caution.. Bought me some piston rings from hastings but the quality is very low. look like plastic rings. they had to be aftermarket lolThey have only a crappy layer of chrome for the first ring, but are all iron so im not going to use them. Very crappy shit vs stock/oem. which is STEEL with chrome lol. Lightweight aluminium pulley 7cm made for an ford engine, the guy in the uk ( where i bought it from ) machined the hole size so it is capable to go on the denso alternator shaft. The cv joint boot where on both side at its end.Time to refurbish the drive shafts. Bought 2 polyurethane cv boots and blueprint cv boots.And jar of Mos2 grease from kroon oil.Cleaning all old grease out of the cv joint. The cv joint at the wheels is left alone This week im going to bring the Crank pulley, crankshaft, flywheel, pressure plate to the engine shop for adjustment.Flywheel is going to get lighter. and all parts will be balanced to zero. So that there is no shit like this Saved some money on balancing lol. Wicked saw blade that flywheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 More photos will come!! on the turbo etc etc etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 nice progress clint :) where did you buy the mild steel 180 degree 1.1/4 inch tubes for the manifold you made ( last 1 ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Will come back on that awnser colin. Need to search for it again. as i lost my favourites on google chrome. Machined the piston ring for same application as intended by hastings. Did some good research on the piston rings from hastings and nippon piston rings. And had a little talk to my mechanic at the engine shop duo to the balancing on the crankshaft flywheel and pulleys, the guy got some experience in the racing scene. He told me to use the hastings oil control rings because there design is pretty good vs old npr type oil control rings which will consume oil after a while. There is an overlaps on the 2E-E engine also other models.. At the end of 92 the 2E/2e-e/3e/4e etc had bad oil control rings they consumed oil over time. On models at 93 or later they've fixed this issue but i did not received those oil control rings on my new NPR set. So i had to use the oil control rings from hasting brand, those funny rings are carbon steel which is very nice. second ring is Iron ( crap ) on both brands..... But the top ring / First ring seems to be molybdenum coating on iron rings said the mechanic which is cool because i can use the top ring from the hastings as second piston ring. And the steel treated Gasnitrided ring from npr as top piston ring. So i've selected 1 piston ring set with the best of both. Fixing the oil control rings into the cylinder was a struggle, checked the website of hastings and it seems to be common problem lol.. Used this piece, bore 73.00 sewer/shitpipe reducer. Kiekeboo Piston rings are very important because they are getting ass kicked in the cylinder wall especially during boost and high rpm. So this is like chapter 1 out of the 5 ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Colin i hope you can read dutch and metric mm Outside diameter - minus wall thickness = inner diameter http://www.ijzershop.nl/172-lasbocht-180 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 In the meanwhile making an new house for the chickens haha Bought Volk/Rays wheels Refurbished the Release bearing/pressure bearing. Flushing Almost as new aluminium gearbox support rubber. Balanced to zero My throttle bodies came off an 2013 suzuki gsr750 NEXT ----> Making an route to the throttle bodies from the output turbo, with an water to air intercooler in betweenand making an chamber.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 clint thanks for that and it will be no problem where is that like button :) thanks bro nice few updates did you balance the fly/clutch yourselve ??? tips please ha ha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Colin those sort of things you cannot balance it yourself i think. You'll need special machines for it.. It cost me arround +-200 Euro. Little update. Relocate adaptorplate for the radiator. Sync the throttle bodies Also been working on my brothers Volkswagen R20 HGP Tuned stage 2 400bhp with dsg. Really a god damn ROCKET More photos will come.. Also 1 side from turbo to intercooler has been connected on my ep71. The otherside will be done tomorrow. How long will it take for the 2E engine will blow up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 how much boost you going to run ??? 0.8bar for years til the bearing fails :) rods and pistons will hold up the boost anyways if no det occurs atleast 2e are a fecking strong bottom end much stronger then the p9 4efe i really like the body's diy intake maybie someting to do on the gi 4efte engine are the injectors of the starlet strait fit in them ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Well how much boost ehm. I shall kick off with 0.5 bar. As the engine allready generates 127HP according TRD group A spec book. My other engine survived + 95 HP NOS boost that would be 222hp out of een 2E-E engine i asume.. With the 100 HP NOS SHOT it failed. But it was a liquid stroke that tear off my ring island ....So my aim is arround 200 bhp because im sure it will survive. The 2E rods are same spec as 4EFTE Piston are going to be kept cool by my water injection system with new nozzle..... My DIY intake was pretty anoying to make with standard tools... but it's worth it, the funny thing is with the turbo on it it sounds exactly the same as an subaru impreza.... pretty weird as i aint got an boxer motor lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 about time you came out of hibernation :) whats up with the intake air filter dont get it ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Awesome project, You are skilled guy, real diy builder Some day started to read, but first pages pictures didn't work and maybe thats why not ended reading, now readed all three pages, wow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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