DTA ecu and coil swap

[Azz]

Right guys in trying to sort everything out that I need ready for my swap to a DTA s60 pro ecu so I've come to the conclusion I need

Fuel pressure sensor

Oil pressure sensor

3/5 bar Map sensor

Intake temp sensor

Water temp sensor

Cam position sensor

Vtec coils

All will be aem sensors as they are direct fit with DTA units

Is there anything else I will need and can someone kindly tell me where best to mount most of the sensors

Cheers Aaron

[Socks]

water temp sensor should already be there?

Cant see why the ECU would need fuel or oil pressure senders.. Unless your datalogging....

[Azz]

Thanks for the quick reply Matt, them sensors are what I've been told too use but I was surpised that many are needed

[Azz]

Anymore info please guys

[_shaun_]

crank sensor aswell.

[Azz]

Thanks Shaun I'm not sure wether I have cam position sensor and crank sensor mixed up, were and how does the crank sensor it ?

[_shaun_]

crank sensor would prob be a toothed trigger wheel on the crank pulley. and a small sensor that counts the teeth. cam sensor would be a small cam sensor working the same way but attaches on to the cam were the dizzy unit was

Edited January 28, 2013 by _shaun_

[Azz]

Ah yes I get it, I'm sure I've seen a few poeple with the crank sensor and toothed pulley.

Would I need both or just the crank sensor ?

Aaron

[_shaun_]

if u want to run the coils sequentially am told you will need both

[Azz]

Hmm right ok looks like I need to do some more reading up then as I'm back to square one now haha

Thanks once again Shaun

[Bean]

you only need a cam sensor if you want sequential injection

[Azz]

Would sequential injection be advised on a 4e pushing around 400bhp??

[AdamB]

If going standalone you may as well run sequential injection.

You can just use the stock triggers to run sequential injection. Get in contact with Chris @ CCM, he's the man to speak to about wiring up using the stock triggers.

Although it is advised to run an external crank trigger simply because its more accurate as you run higher rev limit.

You don't need fuel or oil pressure sensors but you will need them if you plan on running any safety cut features which I would recommend.

Edited January 28, 2013 by AdamB

[Azz]

Thanks Adam, I think I'm getting there slowly there just isnt that much online about wiring and sensors for dta

Where can I find ccm aswell Adam ?

Edited January 28, 2013 by Azz

[AdamB]

Have you been on the DTA forum mate? Very helpful on there.

http://www.dtaforum.com/

I've looked into the DTA series myself quite a bit so have a good understanding of it if you need any help

You'll most likely find Chris over on TGTT mate. Username is Chris@CCM

Edited January 28, 2013 by AdamB

[Azz]

Didn't even know there was a dta website to be honest buddy so thanks for that one. I'm not on tgtt actually always spent my time on ukso

[AdamB]

I have a stock wiring diagram that will help you wire up the triggers mate. I'll upload it for you tomorrow when im on my laptop

[Azz]

I have a stock wiring diagram that will help you wire up the triggers mate. I'll upload it for you tomorrow when im on my laptop

Top man !

[AdamB]

As promised mate:

Note I have drawn a red box around where you need to be looking.

G1 = Cam Trigger

NE = Crank Trigger

G- = Ground

Personally I would still opt to use external triggers because the stock type are of the reluctence type, these are ok but give a pretty poor signal compared with hall effect sensors. The only advantage to using the reluctence type is that they require no power + feed.

Look into Ford or GM/Vauxhall triggers since these can be picked up for pennies and are already pre-programmed into DTA series ecu's a long with other ecu's.

Edited January 30, 2013 by AdamB

[Azz]

Thanks for that Adam,

Its looking like it mite be just as easy to use the dizzy as the cam trigger, would make my life easier anyway.

[AdamB]

Using the cam trigger would be the easiest as it will save hassle having to fabricate something up to fit the stock location and get a signal.

Will most likely use the same thing on my setup, and use an external crank trigger.

[turbo Grant]

24 + 1 Toothed Wheel (Toyota ESA) inside the distributor using either 2 or 3 VR sensors (Ne, G1 and G2), depending on model. With the 3 VR sensor distributor we are only concerned with 2 of the sensors, one which reads the 24 teeth and one which picks up a single pulse per revolution.

On 4 cylinder engines the third sensor (G2), which also picks up on the single tooth, will be redundant.

This might help you out

[Azz]

Ye if its there already mite aswell use it like you said Adam

Thanks Grant, so D2 won't be needed just G1 to count and NE for signal.

Starting to make sense of this now, looks like the main fabrication will be the toothed crank wheel.

This is what I was told about on the DTA forum

HeI've had an S80 running in a test setup on a 4EFE using a 4EFTE distributor to get enough teeth. It had some intermittent issues syncing on start-up due to low-ish resolution and no missing teeth I believe, but ran well.

I used Trigger number 6 (Honda no missing teeth). I don't have laptop handy or I'd give you trigger angles.

Personally I'd throw a 36-1 on the crank , and retain the distributor for Cam signal if you wanted, could still use the stock trigger in there for that. The only reason I didn't go crank trigger was because I was doing testing on the engine for EFI in a speedway class and just needed to prove the point. Longer term I would.

4EFTE I used had 24 teeth (so 12 crank equivalent) and a single "Cam" trigger. The pickup looks like 2 cam sensors but it's note

[turbo Grant]

Get your self some think like this for the crank

[Azz]

Get your self some think like this for the crank

So I'm right in saying you've removed the power steering grant and replaced with that toothed inner ?