Who has altered camber settings front and rear on a EP91

[StarletSr?]

I should have read this before posting lol

[Amjad]

A reply has been posted but no guide as of yet:

"This adjustment to rear camber has made a huge impact on the handling as i knew it would,u only have to watch touring car videos current and all the way back to the mid 90s on youtube to see they run around 3 degrees ( which is very aggressive) on the rear.the back end really noticably "bites" down and car handles that much more better.i am running around 2 degrees on the rear now ( 3 degrees in pictures above) and thats still very noticable and alot less harsh on the tyres.

it is infinatley adjustable ,as is tow now also.this to me is a huge deal as its definatley not common place on any starlet i have ever heard of.

also looks very cool aswell.

i had a very spirited drive last night and went pretty mad and all was well so i am happy to announce it has defo worked.

there is also not just camber,and tow to come out of this great discovery/work,also theres the oppourtunity to add spacering at the same time instead of buying wheel spacers
which is very cool.

it was a huge job for me to risk buggering up a perfectly good gt rear axle,but in my opinion was well worth it."

[Amjad]

Found this online, dunno if it'd work for us or whether it'd be safe?

That's a very good point craig :nod: :thumbs: I will defo get it down to the rollers a week tomorrow and see what they can do for me. I should get the mx5 back on the road before I do more engine mods to this one

The engine runs much better now since I found my weber haynes manual and learnt a couple things. I removed and refitted the carbs and manifold, just to be 100% they were sealed. The removed, cleaned and wd40 all the ht leads and plugs. It turns out that no4 was filled to the top with oil, need a new rocker gasket. Fixed it with silicone for now. Last thing I did was spend a load of time balancing the carbs and now the engine runs much much better.

Here is some update:
Some pics of the mods I carried out on the rear axle. I can alter camber and toe with a tapered spacer.

I cut the spacers into halfs and then bolted 2 opposite halfs together but with a 14mm spacer between them. Once welded up I removed the bolts and spacers leaving a 14mm gap in between the spacers. I then got the 9inch grinder out and removed the 14mm section of axle.

I did the mods in that fashion so that I could guarentee that the flanges were welded on square and perfectly 14mm apart. It worked well and didn't take to long. Iam happy with the outcome but still need to make the tapered spacer and take care of a couple rubs here and there













Bit too much camber at the mo but it does look proper bo!! Got some tyre rubbing still so need to check that out tomorrow

I haven't made the axle wider. I cut 14mm out of the middle and welded the flanges on. I use a tapered spacer to make the axle have camber. You can see in the pics below

The tapered spacer before drilling


The tapered spacer after drilling




Tapered spacer fitted using high tensile 12.9 m12 bolts with nyloc nuts





Need to get some different bolts though, ones that are a better lengthalso iam going to drill more holes in the spacer so that I can dial in differing amounts of toe and camber. All appears well so far, just needs tidying up and painting


(http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=readersrides&thread=85695&page=10)

[Amjad]

^^

[Starbo Moorley]

Id imagine the bloke over on tgtt has done the same/similar as above.

[Amjad]

Haha he updated saying he'll continue to test it before writing up a guide! *fingers crossed*

[Starbo Moorley]

Intresting, keep us lazy buggers who cba to go on tgtt up to date pal !

[ryan lang]

looks sketchy as fuck to me, and the bush on the trailing arm would be twisted to use that centre cut and bend method

[Starbo Moorley]

looks sketchy as fuck to me, and the bush on the trailing arm would be twisted to use that centre cut and bend method

Good point ryan !

[morgey]

He's gone pretty mad with that tho, realistically you would only want like 0.6-0.8 neg camber thats like -5 deg. Must make the back end well light!!

A small amount of camber wouldn't affect the trailing arm bushes that much at all, plus if you've lowered your car that much I'm pretty sure bushes and joint on the front are going to be under more strain that these ones

[Amjad]

Yeah most I'd ever go is -1.5 but more likely -1, would be interesting to see how the guy on TGTT has actually done it!

Apparently NISMO cut either the axles or hubs on their N1 March's too from what I read