geany Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 I'm pretty new to the site and also turbo cars. I have done alot of searching but its a bit info overload.Im running the following as far as I know. Standard CT9 turbo, blitz FMIC, decat and japspeed full stainless system, turbosmart dumpvalve (taken off intercooler pipe just before inlet) no idea if that's right or wrong was like that when I got the car. I have a blitz boost gauge.There was an issue of hitting what I believe was boost cut/fuel cut. This i thought was due to a faulty MBC as when I took it apart the ball bearing was seized. This has now been bypassed/removed. The car is still hitting boost cut. I have to run on lo boost on dash all the time. Boost gauge shows about 0.5 on lo boost and on hi tries to go up above .8 and fuel cut kicks in.My question is will an uprated fuel pump and FCD allow me to safely run on the hi boost setting. I don't know how or why it is boosting higher than stock. I assume the acutuator is standard as the hi/lo switch still works. Wondering if a few bits would allow it to run better. Eg HKS actuator, FCD and 255l fuel pump. Or if I need to spend proper money. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 get a hks adjustable actuator and set that to just below fuel cut. Or you could get an aftermarket ecu which would be the best option but they are expensive compared to an actuator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
krissy_ep91 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Aftermarket Ecu all the way bud!:-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidAshton Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Depends on your budget, easiest way to sort it is to put a restriction back in your system, everything is free flowing too much at the moment. You could put the cat back in and / or the stock efi intake pipe. This will restrict the amount of air the turbo can flow and thus stop hitting fuel cut. You could then fine tune high boost to a stable 0.8 bar and have a pretty nippy setup. This is your most cost effective option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geany Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 I imagine to go aftermarket ecu I would need the fuel pump and the actuator but the FCD and FPR would be dealt with via ECU. I don't want to pay out £500 if I'm going to need a remap in a month or so. I'm happy to pay for emanage but I'm in Hampshire and don't know anywhere that fits/maps it local. Would take a trip to TD but wouldn't want to make another one a month later. My air con is still in situ but its a bit beyond my DIY skills to remove it myself.Was hoping a FCD, FPR with pump and actuator would fix it. But alas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 A FCD and FPR would solve it, but i find it a bit pikey tbh. Also if you dont have the ability you'll have to get somebody to fit these, then get the fueling set up on a dyno. Overall it wouldn't be that cheap. I agree with you, buying an EMB and having it remapped every month would be shit. So best best is do what funny onion said, i'm doing this too, bought a HKS one today until i can afford the 450 quid for a P&P ECU. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geany Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 I think ill get a hks actuator. Does it come with a 0.8 spring? I have seen a lot of stuff regarding hole and pin type :s how do I know which I need. Seen a lot on sale threads eBay etc. I think ill get an actuator at 0.8 I don't want to go higher using a FCD just want to able to go above 0.5 haha I plan to collate all the parts for a TD04 conversion. Then take a trip to tuning developments or such to get it fitted and an ecu fitted and mapped too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I think ill get a hks actuator. Does it come with a 0.8 spring? I have seen a lot of stuff regarding hole and pin type :s how do I know which I need. Seen a lot on sale threads eBay etc. I think ill get an actuator at 0.8 I don't want to go higher using a FCD just want to able to go above 0.5 haha I plan to collate all the parts for a TD04 conversion. Then take a trip to tuning developments or such to get it fitted and an ecu fitted and mapped too.If I were you I wouldn't waste my time putting efi pipes and the cat back in etc, massive waste of time and effort and the car will drive like a bag of shit. The adjustable actuators don't have interchangeable springs you adjust the preload by screwing in/out a nut on the arm of the actuator. So you'll need a boost gauge and a bit of patience to set it up just right but it's not hard to do. As for the hole/pin type I can't remember which is for which but one is for glanza turbos (ct9b) and the other for gt turbos (ct9a) a quick search on here will tell you which. When I was still ct9 I ran a standard fuel pump with fpr with no issues but if you're going td04 at some point in the future you might as well just buy a fuel pump anyway. I had a hks actuator for a while but eventually went wepr externally gated. Best setup you can have really. I've now got a wepr externally gated td04 setup, can't fault it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Mate you don't need to go buying an ECU to fix such a small inconvenience! Buy yourself a HKS actuator as described by Charlotte, and set it below 0.8 bar. What also helps massively is to port the wastegate on the turbo, it will probably have a crack in there like most ct9s but it'll be fine. My car running like that for a few months perfectly at that boost level and didn't hit fuel cut, and I had similar mods Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Arnold Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I'm happy to pay for emanage but I'm in Hampshire and don't know anywhere that fits/maps it local. http://www.fusion-motorsport.co.uk/about-us.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geany Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Right so to set this actuator I need to bolt it on as per my current stock one. Hks has a single nipple outlet right? Run a vac line from that to where the other one goes. Have a drive in a higher gear see what it's boosting too. If its above 0.8 stop take it off adjust screw try again until the boost is holding just below 0.8 bar ergo not hitting fuel cut then it should be fine and dandy until I opt for a td04 emb at a later date. I am happy to pay for that but didn't fancy paying out for it all and a trip to tD to have it mapped on CT9 then have to do same when I go TD04 would rather have the car functioning at 0.8 so I can save for aforementioned stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 That's it! You'll probably still get boost creep, but if you port the waste gate it'll be a lot better. It should hold the boost a lot more stably Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geany Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Just looked through the advert from when I got my car. States HKS actuator. However I can't see if it is or not as the bloody intake pipe is right against the cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Just looked through the advert from when I got my car. States HKS actuator. However I can't see if it is or not as the bloody intake pipe is right against the cap.Is the bar threaded? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geany Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 nope. and have since worked this out from looking online. school bot error. Least i know the way forward from here. Not sure im confident with porting the wastegate though. Will see what results the HKS actuator gives me. Is tuning developments actuator just as good? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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