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Lewis's Nissan 200sx S14a..18/03/2015 - Updated 2015..


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S14s need some sort of rear bumper/lip upgrade in my opinion. The fronts look good but the back a bit bland

Couldn't agree more. The front looks aggressive. Where as the back isn't much to adore.

I'l be going for the kouki rear bumper, lip and spats. That makes them look better in my opinion.

Edited by Zeldoz
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  • 7 months later...

Also i always wondered if you could get like a blanking plate for the centre bit of the rear lights so that it was the body colour in between them if you know what i mean ??

You can yes, but it doesn't look good at all...

Will update this thread this morning. So its up to date.

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03/02/2015


So, this week it finally dawned on me that i love this car.


Its been hibernating in my garage since early September, its caked in dust and is very sorry for itself.


I finally pulled my ass out of gear, booked a quote to repair my sills and its this Saturday @ 9am. - Time to stop thinking about fixing it, and actually fix it.


I also still need to fit my rear coilovers! I completely forgot about them!!


Took some snaps of the car all tucked away and dusty for winter!


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And a few to show the 7 months dust! - Even the neighbours are getting involved...


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----------


So the saving has begun... Lets hope Saturday goes well!

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09/02/2015


Well, just an update to how Saturday went.


A well known guy in the MX5 world happens to run a MX5-Restorers which is a few minutes from me.


He came around spent around an hour looking over the car to see what was involved and how we could utilise my repair section i had custom made by a SXOC.com member.


He gave me a quote, and the car's gone away for 2-3 weeks for the drivers side to be attacked. Due to the cost i need it broken down into drivers and passenger separately.


I told him have it as long as he needs as i wont have means of payment until the end of February.


So FINALLY 7 months later, I've pulled my finger out and the build will continue!


I have a long list of bits and bobs i want to do when the car is back. Starting with wire brushing behind the front and rear bumpers then applying a thick coat of hammerite to prevent surface rust. I remember seeing abit before when i took off the rear bumper to have a look at the my rear numberplate lights.


They are also on the first hit list, as they dont work.



Two pics; one during the inspection, the second at the garage!


Still at home..

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At the garage!

589D696F-5DF1-445D-84B3-7A89FCC25A92_zps

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10/02/2015



Got a call from my welder yesterday. Extremely bad news. The rust situation is a lot worse than originally expected. - Costs have sky-rocketed beyond belief. The figure is horrendously expensive. I have no idea why, but i still want to fix it.



Every inch of me tells me to walk away.. and the holes, rot and rust is relentless underneath. Its destroyed the outer sill, rear floor plan, front wheel arches and its starting on the rear. Luckily, the rear needs 1 single patch. But, the rest of the car is a disaster. Absolute WORSE case scenario. - Typical its my car!


I'll let the pictures do the talking...


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The worst picture...

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Yes, thats floor carpet and sound deadening....


So, im looking at a bill over twice the anticipated amount. Im NOT giving up. I will restore this car and enjoy it for what it is...


She will live on. The whole car is going to be completely stripped of surface rust, then a chemical to stop rust, then repairs.. THEN under-seal. Once finished i can finally forget about the damn sills and enjoy the car like i want too! Almost a year of ownership and I've driven it for about 2 months so far..


More updates soon.

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14/02/2015
Well, I popped up the garage this morning to have a look. The extent of the work is a lot. It's had 4 days solid work on the drivers side and it still needs a day. My rear arch is going to have to be cut, and remade to allow him to 'properly' weld the inner arch together. He said he can bodge it to avoid damaging my paintwork, but I said do what you gotta do. I want the car done properly so I have nothing to worry about.
He has documented everything. Which I'm really happy about. He still had to fill the sill with a filler to prevent future rust and then finish the front sill. Then stage 1 of the repairs will be complete.
** WARNING 56k IMAGE WARNING.. THERES ALOT**
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Floor plan, just behind my seat.
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This one he's finished my floor plan, still got the sill to do;
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Bye bye old sill..
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Hit the max pictures for one post!

Finally a new sill coming together. Still need a tad more work to even out the sill with the bodywork and grind down the welds.
One more day should see the drivers side complete and the car back at my house.
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He's also reinforced the under sill edge so I can jack the car. Although, I wont. It's good he's gone to that extra effort thinking about how I'd jack the car.
Really happy with the progress.
Lemme know what you think.
Edited by Zeldoz
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09/03/2015



Small update.


Drivers side = DONE.


He had to cut 1/4 of my rear arch out and replace to allow him to weld the inner arch sill to the outter skin. It was previously full of filler!


Onto the passenger side, i can expect the car to be done first/second week in April.


Here's literally 3 random pictures i took when i viewed it on Saturday. Next time im up there ill get some underneath shots to see the extent of the work. It looks fantastic and been quoted £200 to blow the drivers side back in.


He had to cut half my arch out, and re-build it as it was full of filler.

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I also picked up some LED rear lights to replace my ROTTEN rear numberplate lights. I'll waxo-oil and underseal behind the rear bumper and get these fitted.


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I'm also looking at going RB25 again. Considering the amount of dollar im into the 14a. I viewed 2 engines at the weekend. We'll have to see. Im tempted to do it slowly over the winter. over a 5-6 month period. Im still weighing up the options now...

Edited by Zeldoz
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Some good work going on here Definitely go for the RB though ;)

I cannot get the RB out my head. Everytime my friend comes over in his R33 and we go out.. It's the noise! I think it will be RB swapped over this winter.

I havent had it for 7 months, and driving a Pugeot in the mean time is killing my soul. - I think i'll enjoy the SR for the remainder of summer, then start cracking on an RB swap. In all fairness theres about 2 days work to get it running... (That's if i dont forget to buy anything important..)

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I cannot get the RB out my head. Everytime my friend comes over in his R33 and we go out.. It's the noise! I think it will be RB swapped over this winter.

I havent had it for 7 months, and driving a Pugeot in the mean time is killing my soul. - I think i'll enjoy the SR for the remainder of summer, then start cracking on an RB swap. In all fairness theres about 2 days work to get it running... (That's if i dont forget to buy anything important..)

Tell me about it! I only have the RB20 and a quiet exhaust for the moment, but god its still addictive...

Yeah I'm sure the SR will definitely be good enough for the time being. I've been told it's a fairly straightforward swap into an S-Body, no idea myself though haha

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Tell me about it! I only have the RB20 and a quiet exhaust for the moment, but god its still addictive...

Yeah I'm sure the SR will definitely be good enough for the time being. I've been told it's a fairly straightforward swap into an S-Body, no idea myself though haha

Basically;

£250 for a brand new loom from the US.

R33 crossmember - £50

Engine - £700-£1200

Custom downpipe - £50 if you know a welder

Few cheap electric fans

and thats it...

Theres a few more niggly bits I've missed off. But WELL do-able under £1500 if you get a cheap enough and good enough engine.

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Basically;

£250 for a brand new loom from the US.

R33 crossmember - £50

Engine - £700-£1200

Custom downpipe - £50 if you know a welder

Few cheap electric fans

and thats it...

Theres a few more niggly bits I've missed off. But WELL do-able under £1500 if you get a cheap enough and good enough engine.

Well worth it in my opinion (not that I've driven an SR though), and especially if it's that cheap :)

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Basically;

£250 for a brand new loom from the US.

R33 crossmember - £50

Engine - £700-£1200

Custom downpipe - £50 if you know a welder

Few cheap electric fans

and thats it...

Theres a few more niggly bits I've missed off. But WELL do-able under £1500 if you get a cheap enough and good enough engine.

You'd be silly not to put an rb20 in there if it's that cheap!!

Nice to see you back on the forum and keeping us upto date with your project. I'd have scrapped it by now so my hat goes off to you :D

James

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You'd be silly not to put an rb20 in there if it's that cheap!!

Nice to see you back on the forum and keeping us upto date with your project. I'd have scrapped it by now so my hat goes off to you :D

James

Should be an Rb25 for that money ;)

But couldn't agree more in respect to not giving up

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