Anderj26 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Replaced my engine in my ep91. Also fitted a ramhorm manifold and external wastegate ect! Now when i bought the car the engine was already removed so had to finish of someone elses handywork! Needless to say its in and i think everything is where it should be. I primed the turbo and there apears to be no leaks. Filled with coolant and had a small leak on the inlet manifold, so filled the water jacket with sealant as i guess this is just for ep82 models? No leaks now! Now when i got the engine the belt had been replaced and the timing was already set. I double checked and it was a tooth out so lined everything back up and timed it to the 0mark on the crankshaft. Is this correct or should it be 10? So i went to fire it up and theres just no bite or anything! As if it doesnt want to go and i can hear popping through the exhaust.I am getting spark on all 4 cylinders and apears to be a good spark!I am getting plenty of fuel pressure as it keeps flooding. So in theory it should go bang. But its not. I have tried a different ecu just to see but still nothing. I have took the plugs out and hope the fuel will evaporate for me to go back and check tomorrow. Any help will be very apreciated as im starting to pull my hair out slightly! ThanksJames Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dangeestarlet Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Have you put the coolant lines the wrong way around on the throttle body? Common mistake and fills engine full of water lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 After triple checking i am 100% sure it isn't the wrong way round. But if anyone has a good diagram or a good explanation of where each pipe should go i will check again tomorrow ThanksJames Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fremyjay Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I have exactly the same problem bud, mine turns over but won't fire with spark and fuel, try bridging the diagnostics port and see if anh codes. Mines being left now until after Christmas and giving if another try Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 I will get to the bottom of it eventually! Haha I have tried that and it just constantly flashes. So no codes as far as i can tell. Im going to start swapping bits and bobs that i have spare just to rule stuff out 😊! Besides that I'm stumped! I will let you know if anything cures it 😊 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 I have checked the pipes on the throttle body and everything ok. I keep rechecking the timing as when its cranking over its popping through the exhaust. Do i time it up to 10 or the 0? The 4e hole is lined up with the notch but every time i try to time it up to 10degrees it is always a tooth out. Just home for my dinner so will keep trying after! Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) could be so many reasons why it wont start check if coil is still earthed our cars run 10 degree !!! Edited November 8, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan_EP82 GT Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 As colin said time it to 10 degress btdc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fremyjay Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 0 on cambelt, ignition timing is 10btdc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Ok thanks guys. Read so many places that said 0 and then others that said 10 degrees. Other ones told me to set it up to the oil pump mark and the notch. So thanks for clearing that up. That will explain the no compression and popping through the exhaust. I have used an earthing kit and used my battery drill and a wire wheel to make sure everyone had a good earth. Cleaned up all existing earths, even the ones in the footwell just to be on the safe side! Unfortunately got to go to the girlfriends parents tomorrow for a sunday lunch so wont be able to get to my garage till monday. First thing i will do is set it for 10degrees! Thanks everyone for helping and i will let you know how i get on on monday. ThanksJames Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 have you got your cams timed up correctly?? 1 dot to 2 dots?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Could you please explain more about this 2 dots to 1? I have timed the camshaft pulley up to the 4e hole to the little indent in the cap. Roughly a little bit right of 12oclock position? Is this correct? Thanks James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fremyjay Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) yes thats correct and with that timed up the bottom should be 0, then your ignition timing should be set to 10btdc http://mearcatmini.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/4e-timing-belt-change.html Edited November 9, 2014 by fremyjay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Ahhh so the bottom has to be at 0 not at 10? Sorry i was confused there and was going to time the bottom crankshaft to 10 and the camshaft to the notch in the head. If the timing has to be at the notch and at 0 on the crank the. I have a strange problem. The car is popping through the exhaust and the inlet indicating the timing is wrong however it is set up to the spec your saying. Sure it is the crankshaft pulley to 0? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 if you use a timing light with a turn button the marks will move on the pully !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Ok thanks everyone. So my timing will be bang on then as ive already set it to 0 and the notch in the cam cap.I will double check the ignition side and get the timing light onto it.Thanks everyone i will let you know tomorrow how it goes. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yaristurbo Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Daft question leads on right way Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yeah leads are on the right way. Checked ignition timing and everything good! Cleaned all connections just to be safe.Whipped of the rocker cover and the inlet cam hasn't been lined up properly when the previous owner did the head gasket. Hopefully after i redo them the can will have the proper compression and fire 😊 fingers crossed! Thanks all for he help and i will let you know if it fires 😊ThanksJames Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yeah leads are on the right way. Checked ignition timing and everything good! Cleaned all connections just to be safe.Whipped of the rocker cover and the inlet cam hasn't been lined up properly when the previous owner did the head gasket.Hopefully after i redo them the can will have the proper compression and fire fingers crossed!Thanks all for he help and i will let you know if it fires ThanksJamesits an easy mistake for someone that hasnt taken notice when they removed. make sure you but the service bolt in when removing cams. or it will rattle when running Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Well after a long day/night it runs! I remembered about the service bolt 😊Fired up straight away which i was delighted about! Wasn't so delighted with the sump gushing oil everywhere so whipped it off and cleaned it up and sealed it. Everything now good leak wise. I get a weird noise now and again but its from the plate between the gearbox and engine. If i bolt it up it makes the most horrendous noise ever! If i leave it unbolted it makes the noise every now and then. The fan was hooked up to a switch on the dash. Beside the mirror switch. I replaced the 30a fan fuse. Reconnected the wires and the fan runs constantly unless i unplug the temp sensor on the thermostat ( very front one) any ideas on how to fix? I will go do a search and then tinker about tomorrow with it 😊Thanks everyone for your help over the last few days! Very appreciated! Thanks James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnboy GT Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 If you have aircon removed mate the fan will run constantly until you bridge the aircon plug with a piece of wire or paperclip. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yaristurbo Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Is the sandwich plates bent on gearbox Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anderj26 Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Ahhh i will bridge it tomorrow or as soon as I'm up at the garage again 😊Yeah it must be bent. Do i just whip the gearbox off and straighten it out or remove it completely?Thanks guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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