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Thatcham certification????


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I have a TOAD alarm on my GT which I'm sure meets the requirements to be approved by Thatcham, however I fitted it myself and don't have a certificate for it... I've had a quote by my insurance company to swap over on to the GT but due to the amount of modifications they require it to have an approved alarm.

How do I go about getting it approved?

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Could you not pay a small amount to have a certificate signed for from an alarmed systems place so to speak?

Possibly, but I don't know of any and if I did find one I'm not sure they would approve my fitting method lol!?

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So I'm looking for someone who is Thatcham accredited to look it over and approve it....

Next question is, does anyone know someone? A member on here maybe? Or a company to recommend...

Another question for people who fitting them personally... What extent did you go to make it tidy? I know it's a personal question with it being your alarms n all, but I'm just not too convinced my fitment will be sufficient...

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Just go to an auto electrician they will charge you an hours labour to check the alarm and write you a receipt stating it's been checked and confirming it's a Thatcham approved alarm fitted to the correct specification. Just check with your insurance company if they will accept the receipt as proof as you don't have the certificate, if I was you I wouldn't mention you've fitted it yourself as that might open a can of worms I needed to attend training to become thatchum certified By Gemini to fit there Thatchum Alarms. So a assume it would be the same for TOAD.

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Just go to an auto electrician they will charge you an hours labour to check the alarm and write you a receipt stating it's been checked and confirming it's a Thatcham approved alarm fitted to the correct specification. Just check with your insurance company if they will accept the receipt as proof as you don't have the certificate, if I was you I wouldn't mention you've fitted it yourself as that might open a can of worms I needed to attend training to become thatchum certified By Gemini to fit there Thatchum Alarms. So a assume it would be the same for TOAD.

Cheers Luke. Based on your training, to what extent should my alarm be fitted for it to meet an approval? Currently it's wired in properly but basically twisted and taped because it was dark and I was tired and it was raining, aliens were chasing me and whatever other excuses you can imagine for me doing a shit job of it.

I'm happy to take it out and do it again, but some standards to meet would be ideal.

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As far as I'm aware, wires to ignition must be black. All of them that go to the alarm. They must be soldered joints and covered with elec tape or heat shrink. The power for the alarm must come from a clean power (from battery) the alarm must have its metal casing around the main box. Besides that I think there are a few more rules but can be found on the thatcham website I believe.

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If its Thatchum ALL wires will be black.

A minimum of 2 immobilising circuits must be used. One should cut fuel other should cut engine spark or if not accessible the engine starter motor.

All wires should be soldered! (Very important)

All wires should be run to there locations using safe routes and not rubbing on exposed metal and secured in place.

All wires should be insulated using heat shrink where possible or insulation tape and all exposed wire covered completely so they are no longer exposed.

There are several earths from the control unit and each should be connected to the body in different locations.

The live wire should be securely connected direct from the battery (Eg a fuse box feed in or ign feed in)

Control unit should be hidden as much as possible and fixed to the vehicle securely using any security shields provided.

The siren should be securely fixed and positioned down to the ground so it does not fill it water.

All opening doors including the bonnet should have sensors.

There should be a proximity sensor, be it microwave, sonic or PIR.

You are not aloud to have a Turbo timer connected!

Edited by lukEp
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If its Thatchum ALL wires will be black.

A minimum of 2 immobilising circuits must be used. One should cut fuel other should cut engine spark or if not accessible the engine starter motor.

All wires should be soldered! (Very important)

All wires should be run to there locations using safe routes and not rubbing on exposed metal and secured in place.

All wires should be insulated using heat shrink where possible or insulation tape and all exposed wire covered completely so they are no longer exposed.

There are several earths from the control unit and each should be connected to the body in different locations.

The live wire should be securely connected direct from the battery (Eg a fuse box feed in or ign feed in)

Control unit should be hidden as much as possible and fixed to the vehicle securely using any security shields provided.

The siren should be securely fixed and positioned down to the ground so it does not fill it water.

All opening doors including the bonnet should have sensors.

There should be a proximity sensor, be it microwave, sonic or PIR.

You are not aloud to have a Turbo timer connected!

Quality info Luke

John

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If its Thatchum ALL wires will be black.

A minimum of 2 immobilising circuits must be used. One should cut fuel other should cut engine spark or if not accessible the engine starter motor.

All wires should be soldered! (Very important)

All wires should be run to there locations using safe routes and not rubbing on exposed metal and secured in place.

All wires should be insulated using heat shrink where possible or insulation tape and all exposed wire covered completely so they are no longer exposed.

There are several earths from the control unit and each should be connected to the body in different locations.

The live wire should be securely connected direct from the battery (Eg a fuse box feed in or ign feed in)

Control unit should be hidden as much as possible and fixed to the vehicle securely using any security shields provided.

The siren should be securely fixed and positioned down to the ground so it does not fill it water.

All opening doors including the bonnet should have sensors.

There should be a proximity sensor, be it microwave, sonic or PIR.

You are not aloud to have a Turbo timer connected!

Thanks for that luke. I'd better go and tidy mine up then! Although I'm not sure if my fuel is cut as well as ignition... Honestly can't remember but I'm pretty sure I just cut the ignition near the barrel.

I had this problem with my company. They kept hassling for me to send in the cert and give details of the alarm in then end i asked how much more it would be without the alarm declared... absolutely nothing!

I have thought about it, but they said if it turned out to not be Thatcham approved that they would have to cancel the policy lol. I didn't even think to ask if they would insure without it being approved... She did say that they wanted to know specifically if it had an alarm and it was approved so I just assumed they wouldn't insure me if it didn't.

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