starletezy Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Does anyone know of rear camber plates or camber shims for the rear hubs on a ep82 GT Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 They are welded on so cant be shimmed without fair a bit of work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
olidaviesuk Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Have to chop the stub axles off a spare beam, then have yours machined off then you can shim. Seen it done - lots of work and you need access to a machine shop to do properly as the cuts have to be exact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 cheers guys going to look into it people have told me they have put washer's behind there hubs to get the toe out on the rear hubs on there glanza's but that cant be possible right lol? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Not without some work.A couple have done it.I think this is the process:grind the welds off the stub axle flange to remove it from the beam, then i think drill out the beam to then bolt the flange back on. That then allows you to shim the stub axles to give you camber/toe adjustment.Only thing im not sure on is getting them back in the same place on both sides. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Not without some work.A couple have done it.I think this is the process:grind the welds off the stub axle flange to remove it from the beam, then i think drill out the beam to then bolt the flange back on. That then allows you to shim the stub axles to give you camber/toe adjustment.Only thing im not sure on is getting them back in the same place on both sides.Cheers mate sounds like a long process its either that or roll the arches but would be nice to have some camber Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Not without some work.A couple have done it.I think this is the process:grind the welds off the stub axle flange to remove it from the beam, then i think drill out the beam to then bolt the flange back on. That then allows you to shim the stub axles to give you camber/toe adjustment.Only thing im not sure on is getting them back in the same place on both sides.You'd have to be pretty accurate to do it with one beamIf you have a beam to sacrifice it's a simple process. Just long winded Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 doing this wouldn't be a problem for me as I have fabrication skills and access to the right tools so might look into doing it soon on another beam will start a thread if I go ahead You'd have to be pretty accurate to do it with one beamIf you have a beam to sacrifice it's a simple process. Just long winded Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 In my experience it's not needed, tyre wear / temperatures stay fairly constant across the tyre. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 In my experience it's not needed, tyre wear / temperatures stay fairly constant across the tyre. True that mate im just experimenting with setups at the moment Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) The answer is to lop a bit off the axle and bolt it back with a shim underneath.. But I really think you're just band aiding a flawed rear beam setup, and those that have done it already, just did it because they could without backing it up with any real data. The truth is, only a very small percentage of Starlets aren't road cars, so there simply isn't enough knowledge available to say, yes this absolutely works on track, or no it doesn't. So it really is a case of experimenting and figuring out what does and doesn't work for you.. All I know, is that my car handles really well, is fairly planted and very difficult to get it out of shape in the dry. It does suffer from a little bit of understeer, and I'm hoping with the combination of aero, a LSD rebuild, ARB adjustment and some alignment tweeks will help. But at the end of the day, it's still a FWD car, with the engine and gearbox slightly for of the front axle so it will always understeer a little. Biggest thing any of us need, before we start fucking about underneath is seat time in the car. With coilovers, brakes and ~160whp there's not much that can keep up with a well driven EP82. Edited January 14, 2016 by TimD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Mike EP82 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 I agree with Tim just drive it as it is simple👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 The answer is to lop a bit off the axle and bolt it back with a shim underneath.. But I really think you're just band aiding a flawed rear beam setup, and those that have done it already, just did it because they could without backing it up with any real data. The truth is, only a very small percentage of Starlets aren't road cars, so there simply isn't enough knowledge available to say, yes this absolutely works on track, or no it doesn't. So it really is a case of experimenting and figuring out what does and doesn't work for you.. All I know, is that my car handles really well, is fairly planted and very difficult to get it out of shape in the dry. It does suffer from a little bit of understeer, and I'm hoping with the combination of aero, a LSD rebuild, ARB adjustment and some alignment tweeks will help. But at the end of the day, it's still a FWD car, with the engine and gearbox slightly for of the front axle so it will always understeer a little. Biggest thing any of us need, before we start fucking about underneath is seat time in the car. With coilovers, brakes and ~160whp there's not much that can keep up with a well driven EP82. Good piece of information mate appreciate it gives me abit of an idea the car handles spot on with coliovers breaks and lsd gear box the reason why I wanted to know is rear wheel and tyre clearance when lowerd is abit tight but I will get that issue resolved Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 your better of retro fitting independent rear suspension from a rolla then you can change toe and camber and not have a solid ( horid ) rear axel now thats an idea !!! ha ha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
olidaviesuk Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Not without some work.A couple have done it.I think this is the process:grind the welds off the stub axle flange to remove it from the beam, then i think drill out the beam to then bolt the flange back on.That then allows you to shim the stub axles to give you camber/toe adjustment.Only thing im not sure on is getting them back in the same place on both sides.its also welded on the inside of the stub, quite a bit of work with a die grinder is needed to remove it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Mike EP82 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 What tyres you running?Wheel et? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 ET20 8J 195/50 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Mike EP82 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 195 on 8j 🙈, I'd be more worried about tyres coming off than rubbing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 195 on 8j , I'd be more worried about tyres coming off than rubbing.Haha i know mate the thinnest tryer i could get to clear it for now Lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Mine catches on the rear under full compression with a passenger, worse at cadwell as you enter the mountain!I only have a 7j wheel and 35'ish offset, you're going to struggle to use the car in anger without some wider arches. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) If it's time attack you want I'm surprised you're running a 195 on an 8J. I run 195/50 all round(which measure at 205) on 7J ET32/35 F/R.If it was a track only car I'd like to experiment with 225/50/15 front and 205/50/15 rear, or milder staggered setups Edited January 14, 2016 by Amjad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Mine catches on the rear under full compression with a passenger, worse at cadwell as you enter the mountain!I only have a 7j wheel and 35'ish offset, you're going to struggle to use the car in anger without some wider arches.Mine use to do the same on a set of 7J ET35 wheels on sharp bends think it might be best to get a smaller wheel on there instead of messing around with wider wheels If it's time attack you want I'm surprised you're running a 195 on an 8J. I run 195/50 all round(which measure at 205) on 7J ET32/35 F/R.If it was a track only car I'd like to experiment with 225/50/15 front and 205/50/15 rear, or milder staggered setupsThere just temp mate not going to use on track going to stick me 7J ET35s with 195/50s wheels back on they were bang on was going to try 225/50s if I do will let you know how I get on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Mike EP82 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Mine catches on the rear under full compression with a passenger, worse at cadwell as you enter the mountain!I only have a 7j wheel and 35'ish offset, you're going to struggle to use the car in anger without some wider arches.Change Spring rate Tim, I never had problems with tyre rub even on bumpy B roads 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Mine use to do the same on a set of 7J ET35 wheels on sharp bends think it might be best to get a smaller wheel on there instead of messing around with wider wheels There just temp mate not going to use on track going to stick me 7J ET35s with 195/50s wheels back on they were bang on was going to try 225/50s if I do will let you know how I get on That would be good, thanks! 7J is a better bet for sure, and that can take a 225 easy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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