EPnick22

ahhh i see just watching a video now

guessing the engine from this is either not for sale or already sold? cheers

the block never came out the car thats why i didnt change it, yes yes yes its my fault i know, im stupid, etc etc. adam can you explain fully how I check the oil clearances please?

but like i said before it was fine, even the big end shells from the old rods were good enough to use again (i didnt obviously but yeah) if it was blocking oilways then how comes it didnt screw my engine before? youre right in what you are saying but in this situation Im not sure this is what's happened

I didnt want to go through the hassle of taking the crank out, plus getting the gear box out too I wasnt too clued up on how to do it despite reading through a lot of threads, I was on a bit of a budget too, but now im aware that you cant spare any expense. how comes it wouldnt have lasted?

only reason i didnt change it was cause it was fine before the rebuild and I didnt take the block out so I didnt bother changing it, I know I deserve to be laughed at for this, my mistake but live and learn aye, live and learn with a £1000 down the drain lol

yeah I did, it turned over fine? before i bolted the rods up I put each rod individually on each journal upside down with the shell on and assembly paste to check if the rod turned freely on the crank, they were all fine

yeah made sure all rods were with the correct caps and that the rods were facing the right direction as apparently they have a direction because of the little notches in the big end where the shells sit you know? all the rods were at the right torque setting, even when taking the rods off they were still at the right torque. and crank what by hand sorry?

Im thinking either oil pump or crank journey holes clogged up, the oil pump hasnt ever been changed and the engines covered 105k. something to consider, the block never left the car in the first place, had the bores honed to correct clearances, all the bores were measured properly for ovality and they were fine, i notched the block while the crank was still in the car but did my best to cover the crank so all the crap didnt get on the crank, but whats your opinions? besides me being retarded haha

update: ripped the engine apart, rods and pistons out, everything unplugged ready to drop the block out. Rod no.1 is going in the bin, the big end of the rod is torn up, one side of the rod is discoloured from heat. Think maybe an oil pressure problem? oil pump? clogged crank journal holes? found 2 more big end shells on their way out, one of them was tapering quite badly need help people please

but if thats the case regarding the oil clearances, how comes the other 3 are okay? this one scored the crank journal so gotta be changed, im considering selling the pistons and rods if theyre in good condition then just buying a forged engine from someone on here thats already run in and running smooth

Havent yet got the rod out, surely if there was an oil problem the rod would be discoloured from heat? the only thing I had to run in was the bores and piston rings, was using mineral oil for the first 100 miles then put 10/40 semi synth in. how would you even check the oil clearances? if it helps the crank journals are std size using new acl std size shells. gunna get the engine out and strip to see the clearances of the rod to the bore, how much shit from the shell do you think is around my engine now?

from what I could see it wasnt a tight fit from the rod to the bore, but maybe I didnt leave enough looks like engine out, full strip down and flush out, blahh...

If its what I think it is, then yeah its my fault this has happened, but live and learn. Notched my block out for my scat rods, they all looked like they had sufficient clearance from the rod to the bore, or so I thought..... if the rod was skimming a bore, would that be enough to spin a shell? all the rod bolts were tightened to correct torque, engine was cleaned out after notching etc etc what are your suggestions?

I think i might know what the tapping was, after my engine started knocking the other week, got the sump off last night, spun a big end shell on crank journal no.1, I think i didnt take out enough when I notched the block and the rod was skimming the bore, full fresh rebuild now to flush it all

theres a place in Erith, Kent, called Hayes engineering Dynotech, its where I go for my car, theyve mapped a few starlets down there, theyre actually Evo specialists but heres the link : http://www.hayesdynotech.co.uk/contact.html

the OE ones are nuts and stud, not a bolt holding the cap on

are these bolts stretch bolts? I thought that they only needed to be torqued to a set amount, am I wrong?

yeah i kept the bolt in there until everything was tightened to the correct torque settings then took the service bolt out, what do you suggest?

sorry when you say lock the timing gear do you mean putting the service bolt through the cam gear on the inlet cam?

so how comes when I first stripped it and numbered all the buckets/shims then when I rebuilt it in the same order it tapped? it didnt before

I saw one there a few days ago didnt really think about it at the time I was looking for things for my golf lol might pop down there today Does it matter what bucket sits over what valve? when i did my rebuild I numbered each one in a box for each valve, and it never tapped before? whats changed? I put them all back in the same order

not sure it was dark out Im sure it was black anyway, either that or dark blue/green, but im sure it was black

never seen it around before, drove past me in my golf