Chops

No lol, laughed anyway.

resonably thick but you can see through it. stinks a bit, lol.

Its not that heat wrapping doesnt work, its more that headers are more prone to warp and crack if made to reach higher tempratures. I would also expect the metal and manufacturing process to be a massive factor in the headers lifespan. Mild steel is far less likly to warp and crack than stainless steel, for instance.

Hi all, i have a question. I have to swap my manifold and downpipe in the near future, so im probably going to drop my turbo out for ease of access. I want to achieve a tourqy safe set up, and was wondering if swapping to a ct9b would be worthwhile? Are there any hybrid ct9 set ups known to make particularly good torque gains?

No, it occasionally might belch smoke after sitting at the lights or sitting after a bit of a drive about. I mean its quite rare for it to, but noticeable when it does. it smokes very slightly when u turn it on after a day or two of sitting too, I just thought that was water in the zorst evaporating so I've been ignoring it.

Just checked it, its nice and full. Maybe its something else?

No :S, but last i did it was fine.

Hey peeps, I need some advice on a problem i have! Occasionally, when sat still for a min or two, things behind me get hammered with a cloud of white smoke as i pull off . is this likely to be a turbo oil seal problem? if so whats the best plan for repair?

Hey all, ive finally bodged my engine back together, and after boosting around a bit, found that although Ive plumbed in the original bov to act externally like a boss, ive got some chatter going on. Im assuming the standard bov is too pansy to depressurise the whole intake fast enough, but I thought Id ask your opinion. Also, im assuming that because theres a 2 psi pressure drop from when it had a tmic to get it running the 11 psi im after, the poor old turbo will actually be topping out at 13 psi, and probably running out of puff. Is that right? (and yes I know theres currently a hole in

Im game, my car should be ready to go about Wednesday. i was hoping we could map out most of the peeps coming, then decide a spot in the middle. Im in Portsmouth but nothing seems to be happening meet wise near me so ill have to come to one over there

ok cool, will tide me over till I have the spare for a proper actuator

Are the door cards the kind with speakers? Im after a pair of those

Anyone? Please lol?

As it turns out, my alloy had stripped the threads off 3 wheel nuts on the passenger side and the wheel was moving across the face of the hub . A lesson never to buy or run a car just bought with cheap ass chrome wheel nuts cause they 'look good' lol. No serious damage done thankfully, just scratched up the alloy a bit. Thanks for the help!

He means the Vacuum hose that plugs into the top of the efi pipe and I don't think it needs to go anywhere, as its just a dump for the throttle body iirc. Could be wrong tho

Hey all, Ive just fitted a bleed valve just above the stock boost controller, in the hopes of raising the boost a little while still using the standard controller button on the dash, but as there are literal holes in my intake and I'm not making boost atm i thought id ask you lot whether this works or not. Will the standard boost controller just compensate for the extra bleeding? What kind of power might i expect to see with a straight pipe and short route fmic at 11 psi?

Fantastic mate, that's cleared this mess right up for me cheers! Thanks to you both!

Hey all, just been rooting around my bay scratching my head, and looking through old threads here. I have a oil pressure sensor for a gauge, and a t piece to fit it to the same port as the standard one, but I think the port i'm after is underneath what seems to be my air con pump in the bottom left corner of my bay, am I right? will I need a hose line to plump it in?

been messing with it this evening, its definitely driveshaft related. im pissed cause ive got a fmic and loads of things to fit, and now ive got this to sort first. ill get back to all on what the problem turns out to be.

its deffo not the exhaust, its all held up and full of holes lol. its definitely the front passenger side, theres no grinding, just a bang bang bang when going along I thought it was cvs, but my mechanic mate said it wasn't. bugger on the gear box side of it though lol

this is reassuring, tho I cant check to see if it is the bearing easily cause of the lsd mine has. Where does the zorst knock? this knocking is constant, speeding up and slowing down as I do

Starting to panic now! I limped it down to a mechanic mate of mine that looked the suspension and driveshaft over and couldn't see any problem, what else might clunk clunk clunk as you go along? minor panic at the thought of some sort of gearbox/diff failure. Anyone able to speculate???

(Edited cause I thought it sounded rude lol) I don't think its the exhaust, the clunking is rhythmic, defiantly either cv or bearings. it stops under hard acceleration or breaking. How big of a job are syncros too, ive never had to deal with them? Ive found a bit a of a dodgy job on the exhaust where someone has welded in some flexi section that seems to have disintegrated, how much would a garage want ot weld in a nice new one does anyone know? Also, would I be able to run a bleed valve in series with the standard boost controller to raise the boost to around 11 psi on high boost but keep

Annoyingly, more has happened, so I'm turning this into a general pile of questions thread now lol. I went over a hidden pot hole earlier and the clunking got pretty bad, so Ive limped home, worried. how dodgy is it to roll around on a buggered bearing, can it damage other things if I ignore it till my next payday mid july? And selecting 1st and 2nd, and sometimes shifting out of second is getting difficult, im assuming its linkages that's the problem, but i'm not sure. Is there some kind of common problem this might be?