Chops

Hey all, finally got my shit together and finished my cars new turbo install, then found i was lugging a swimming pool about. previous owner had the same problem and told me he'd sorted it, there's rust in the boot that had been painted over and now the poor weathers set in its apparent he was a useless sack of shit at repair and at informing me of its problems when i bought it ):/. i know this is a common problem, and i have some mad sikaflex that can deal with it. anyone able to tell me where its getting in from, as i cant find it anywhere. In other news, i'm sick of having no rear wiper

Cheers, thats a fairly big drop lol. Im spectacularly skintski atm, or id have that, its a good price. GLWS!

im thinking about getting a lightened flywheel, could you tell me how much that cusco of yours saves over the standard please?

bugger, i wanted to go for a proper drive with my new turbo n shit. cheers for the heads up mate.

Necroposting i know, but i don't think it needs a new thread. Ill be heading down to that Brighton meet if its on next tues and the weathers ok, anyone else planning to go?

is it an lsd box? i have a mate in need of one.

i cant get to it once everythings back in, i have to get it roughly right before it goes back together. i need to know how far away from the closed wastegate arm the end of the rod is when set to 11/12ish psi.

i cant use that, ive cut the rod right down so i can fit everything back into my bay. surely the rods length doesnt actually matter, its about the tension in it between the wastegate arm and the actuator itself that decides when the actuator starts to open the wastegate?

Anyone? Please lol?

i see, cheers! another question, ive found that my hks adjsutable actuator didnt fit beside the original efi pipe, so ive had to add 15mm of metal into the mounting bracket, and trim the adjustable pushrod to suit. ittle be a bugger to adjust once its all back together, does anyone know how many mms of preload would roughly equate to around 11/12 psi on high boost? thnaks again!

Hey, chops here with another problem, im reinstalling a refurbished turbo, but dont want it to oil starve when i first start it, and want to confirm a good method of making sure its ready to start before i do. Ive fished about a bit, and it seemslike the done thing to put some new oil into the turbo itself and wind it round a bit, fit it all up, then crank the engine round for a bit with the starter motor with the ht leads pulled out to stop it firing, trying and fill the feed lines up ready to go. this sound about right? any idea how many cranks would be enough to achieve this?

Sweet jaysus, success! the final preparation hurdle cleared, thanks to you jezza and Rbz, panic over! just as a side note, does anyone know what this clamp should be torqued up to? i carefully measured out 4 turns with the spanner before it was loose enough to move, but it was silly tight, wouldn't wanna cut corners now lol.

isnt there a pin that holds it in place?

this obv isnt actually it, but its similar enough. that 1st runner in the foreground hits the top of the compressor housing below it, so the turbos held at an angle and theres no seal. the only thing that i can think of to sort it is a spacer of some sort, but that would require 2 gaskets, or 2 gaskets with a plate in the middle.

hey all, just got my turbo back from a rebuild, and found the toyosport mani i was going to fit it back in with wont bolt on, cause the 1st runner fouls the compressor housing and stops the gasket being able to form any kind of seal. it wasnt a problem when i trial fitted it to a ct9b (now a ct9a) i dunno how this happened. the only way around this issue i can see is fitting both a new oem gasket and the shitty graphite one that came with it, but that doesnt sound like the best idea lol. anyone have any way around this?

hng on, what if youve put some semi synth in previously, but are now filling it up with 5w40 fully synth?

what is considered low compression on these engines anyway? i got 170ish across 1,2 and 4, and 160ish across piston 3. that seemed ok for 100000 miles to me, and ive heard piston 3 got the short straw design wise, wich is why its low. do those figures sem ok you you lot?

phhh, mine often drops to around 250 rpm when idling at lights or whatever. Seems content enough, doesn't stall or anything so i just let it lol.

cheers, im just gonna find an o ring for it, chop its mount off the intake to sell it all and put my baileys on there instead. anyone interested in it pm me or http://www.ukstarletowners.com/user/11266-jamo-94/ cheers for the help!

Anyone got a complete glowgadge boot for sale? I only know one peep who has a spare, and he aint sharing, the greedy bugger! how much do they go for these days?

how much for just the rear brace please bud? ive wanted one for aaages lol!

how much does the m/s mani change the turbos position in the bay? any other things need changing with it?

i wouldnt mind all the squarelight gear id need for a conversion if the buyer doesnt want it, drop me a pmwith what youd want for it mate.

ive ported my new turbo a fair bit, just gonna have it refurbished but when its in ill be running raised boost with a similar set up, ill let you know if it stops the creep if you havnt done yours yet