turbominicooper

Anyone got a white gt with say a black spoiler or bonnet etc, something to break up the pure whiteness. Pics/ideas please

Piston rings

Allow heat to leave the engine bay but I'd say ultimately people use them for the look

they not standard leads bud

your best getting the instruction manual.

The afr if compatible will have an analogue out signal, mine was yellow and I plumped it into the grey one on my e01.

Again instructions are the way

take a pic and post, i'm not sure what you mean

It's in car now will get pic Monday but on the main bearing where it's normally stamped b2 and stuff like that, around the other side it said 16 rather then 15. Both pistons had 3 stamped on top and it's gone in fine just wandered if it's ok to have one '16' and 3x '15' ones. Will get pic

check the cylinder, piston, ringlands, rings and head chamber on the cylinder that reads low

you really should have done that before when everything was disassembled to make sure

i'd even suggest you check them all (each cylinder/pistons, rings, etc) while you are at it this time

Full works this time and turns out the piston has cracked in between the rings.

I've got another piston/rod ready to go in but the stamp on it is slightly different in where it says 16 on side of bearing and the broken on is 15 - straight swap??

Yeh all looked sound so looks like double whammy. Will do leak down but looks like new rings in that no.1

Yeh will give it a bash next time.

So I've done the hg swap from 1.9mm to standard and am now getting 50 150 150 150 so no gain on no.4 but even more of a drop on no.1 with the thinner gasked??

use some universal grease rub it on head and dec then put gasket on over time the grease burns up to a seal

Sounds dodgy as! Maybe try it om a diff motor one day

Check the block for flatness, ideal situation get it decked.

I just need car running till my forge build is done mate

theres an uneven spot right there either block or head

toyota gasket will do the job now

Gotcha!

10/10 colin

seems to be a bit of a recurring issue with the Athena/aftermarket headgaskets...

As colin says would put an OEM one on and retest...

Even If the rings were worn that wouldn't allow air to pass out of a neighbouring spark plug tube.

If you or a mate vape, get them to blow into a plug tube and see if any smoke comes out of anywhere it shouldn't.

I'll get the sheesha out tonight

indeed

get toyota 1 if you can as most pirate gaskets suck i tryed most and most failed

im sure there wont be ring isseus but you never know

cool well thats a beam of hope. ill give it a bash before weekend and see how it goes. cheers man

So what u thinking get the std gasket on and then compression test it to see if there any ring issues?

so yeh basically as above my 5EFTE is running like dirt with a bunch of issues

id touched on the subject of low compression in another thread the other day.

at the start of March i did a compression test and was 150psi across all 4 then last week did another one and was pretty much 80, 100, 125 and 150 (1-4).

i had been seeing the low oil pressure warning but sometimes it could be on at over 2000rpm so just ignored it thinking the sensor was faulty.

playing about on sunday night annoying the missus i was flooring it and felt the car have a major power loss.

monday morning i did a 15 mile round trip and noticed white smoke coming from under bonnet (cam cover breather) and more out the back then usual.

looking today there is very slight white mayo on the oil cap so it looks like the 1.9mm ATHENA gasket may of given it up.

also i had all the plugs out and when i blew into the spark plug holes i could hear air coming out the next spark plug hole (put hand over it and couldn hear anything)??

im at a bit of a dead end here cause i need the car on the road as none of my other projects are roadworthy. as simple as it is to whip head off i really dont want to find something else like cracked block, head, piston etc.

is it possible that the earlier loss in compression was the gasket starting to go and then ive blown it completely? fingers crossed kind of meaning that there isnt anything wrong with the rings or have i just been dealt a double whammy and need to sort the lot out?

leading up to this there was no changes only a new actuator but didnt boost past 1bar on it

grrrrrrrrr

fit a 3mm washer in the relief valve thats how big the washer is in my 5e block

Paperclip job colin?

http://s525.photobucket.com/user/dzaster96799/media/Turbo/oilpressurevalvemod.jpg.html

When you say low, what reading you got at what rpm?

havent had a reading on it just the oil pressure light is always on at upto 2000rpm. i thought it was the sensor wire earthing to the manifold/engine or something so ignored it but recently compression has dropped right down (rebuild territory) so basically i screwed my motor up

thanks chaps loads of info here.

What's the reason for wanting high compression?

You can only go as high as the fuel you use will allow anyway.

As Gorgan said, flat tops is a no no in turbo motors because they retard the flame front. The Wiseco -10cc dished pistons are the best off the shelf design you can get for a 4E/5E without spec'ing your own with someone likes CP or JE. Then you're talking a fair chunk more cash.

was just wanting to do something different with minimal lag.

looking online quick im thinking about scat rods with 75mm wiseco pistons, how do they appease to people quality wise?

according to here those pistons create a 9.3 CR - http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportCompact/AB17SC-Subaru-Toyota.pdf

also with this 'low oil pressure' scenario (something im experiencing in my current motor, hence) does anyone make an uprated pump?

got a spare 5efhte block sitting around so thinking about my next upgrade.

ive searched high and low and cannot find a 'high compression' forge piston, dos anyone know if this exists?

alternatively whats the best budget forge kit?

ive seen TD, RT and SV do kits but im wandering if i were to source each part individually would there be a saving to b made?

also could i push a bigger piston onto the 5efhte rod avoiding the need for using a forged rod?

besides the forge stuff i basically want the rest to be genuine toyota parts, has anyone found a 'camskill' replacement, they were best price for bits until they stopped stocking

No leaks cause if I put a boost tap in place of it I get the 14psi I'm after.

The start boost is set on the actuator arm and the max boost is defined by the spring.

The solenoid holds the wastegate closed until it hits the boost i set it to... or should do if working properly

As in the title I think mine is faulty.

When I have the e01 hooked up the car won't boost past 10 psi.

I have played with the start, set and gain settings and even with it set 10 psi 100% 100% I only get 10 psi. .. it should be double that.

If I run just the actuator it will happily boost 14psi

Is this a faulty solenoid or a e01 config error?

I would do the auto setup but don't have access to a decent enough straight or rolling road to do so

My flasher relay was next to the steering column. You could always get a torch and look

Yeh ill pass on that idea. Needs to look good

What's the closest universal scoop anyone's found that's like the starlet style?

Will b needing one for a na bonnet