RobSR

Im pretty sure it's something to do with the ac

From what I've seen red stuff ones are not very good unless there constantly getting abuse on track.. On the road they never really seemed to heat up.. Braided lines are pretty good, take away a bit of the spongy pedal feel, and will sharpen the braking a little as they don't expand when braking like the rubber ones.

Dave Burwash... Tm developments

you sure? More fuel normally makes things run cooler... It adds more fuel in, but I ain't convinced that helps it warm up quicker? Anyone care to confirm or deny

^ or rings..! The SR used to start at about 1800 and then settle down.. Also regarding the "don't rev it till the temp needle is halfway" that's for water temp, which gets up to temp alot quicker than oil..

Order the bumper brackets from toyota.. It will fit then.. The 98 and 96 brackets are differnt though so make sure you get the right ones!

it won't if done properly.. There's a td04 ep91 in aus that had the convo done, and it was running 12 sec 1/4's I believe. Nothing wrong with the compression either which is why the afore mentioned one was so quick. Because of the high compression you make more power at lower boost levels. I'll try and find a link..

^ if you want to run decent boost/power yes you will need fuelling bits. But If you can't afford it all in one hit, you can run up to .7 bar on the td04l on standard ecu/fuelling

Cheers for the kind words Depending on my paypacket this month.. I'll hopefully be ordering the clutch.. And then drop the engine in.. If so I'll borrow a ct9 setup to see if it all runs properly (I'm pretty confident it will ).. Stay tuned !

You sure yours is a safety21 one? Considering yours goes over the seats and Into the boot.. Unlike all the others that go to the rear struts.. Unless it's a model that you can retain the rear seats with.. But I'd find out for sure if it's a safety21 one before you order anything !

That 2000 looks awesome! I've always wanted some 1000 mk3's so hopefully they'll come down in price now! I'm going mos soon so I'll have to see if they're using the 2000's!

it varies I would allow for about 600 quid.. Then you'll need 'gate, oil + water lines etc so it'll soon add up !

Specific mani and downpipe I'm afraid mate! Aswell as oil, water lines IC etc...

that's what I said lol.. There's no point wasting money on an fcd if you have an fpr and safc... Set the fpr up rich and trim it down with the safc.. That's the only way you can aviod fc with the safc. If your adding in fuel with the safc you can only do it below fc. Also some people have had problems using a hks fcd and safc in conjunction... They've been known to interfere.. Regarding what everyone says about setting it up rich with the fpr incase the safc fails due to an electrical problem etc is a bit silly in my opinion.. It's the same concept as a piggyback when wired in I.e signal fudger, and no ones worried about using an emb/emu to add in fuel. If it fails, it's bad luck, or dodge wiring which is your own fault

In regards to scot-ish's post..when using a safc and fpr you don't need a fcd.. As essentially a safc and fcd do the same thing.. Fudge the airflow Reading from the map sensor...

as you already have a ported turbo.. Go for a 2.5"..if your only going up to .8 bar your not going to make loads of power.. With those mods mentioned above your really want to start looking to get it up to 1bar, so all you'll need then is an fcd and some sort of fuel control whether it's a fpr/safc/emb etc.. @ trd that's simply not true mate, there's loads of ep's running over 200bhp unforged on tracks with no problems what so ever, also you don't need larger injectors, the standard ones are fine up to around ~215-220 bhp

You won't really get creep on the ct9 when using a 2" downpipe.. It's when you go for a 2.5" (which is the bore literally everyone goes for) you start to get problems with creep...

You don't need a mappable engine management system for 1bar ct9. As long as you have some sort of fuel control and there's enough fuel in it, it's not going to go pop. For 1bar ct9 a FPR and Safc will do the job fine on the fuelling side of things. Although you won't make as much power as you would with proper mappable management as a safc can't controll timing..

Not if your actuator is set at .8 bar. With an Ebc you can only raise boost.. So going on my example you could only turn it up to .8 bar +

Had a good time even though I was only there sat night and Sunday morn! Was good to have a catch up ! Also like Si said the SR will be there next year no matter what ! TC weekender also sounds lulz

What a plum.. I never bother Reading comments as 90% of the time there like that. He probs didn't even own the car, just some kid on summer holiday from school with nothing to do lol. It's amazing the amount of rehtards that do that!

The basics have been covered but if I was doing any serious track work.. Safety would be at the top of my list so.. Cage/Seat/harness and a decent helemet not a shitter of eBay for a tenner

Not alot in my opinion.. Think dave advised my bro 0.1-0.2 bar after a few miles... When I said don't boost it.. I mean don't go canning when your fuelling hasn't been setup..

Looking awesome phil! Think I may get some towing eyes now I've seen them on an ep

yup.. Running them in hard is the best way.. Aswell as looser engines make more power re the boost, if your gentle enough on the throttle it won't boost.. If you have an internally gated turbo I presume you could take the actuator arm off the wastegate flap.. Do lots of oil/filter changes aswell.. Oil is cheaper than a new engine