RobSR

im still working on it A little teaser..

Does it get stuck in gear?

the inner cups on the na box are smaller so you will need turbo ones if using turbo shafts. I have mk3 GT shafts in mine and the outer cv were the same spline count as the non turbo. At the moment if I were you I'd use the na shafts. They are about 1mm thinner and that's about it. The only reason i used gt ones is because i had them hanging around !

well the 2 I've seen on ftes have gone horribly wrong one bent a rod the other put a rod through the block...but it's your engine

lockyear? Used to have a blue jgtc kitted supe? Was a lush car that that mr looks pretty mental aswell

The bee-r will break it. When it cuts it throws the spark back in anywhere in the cycle so it's just like getting det. Also when you use it it flags up an ignition fault code which then puts the ecu back to base timing.

you going to get gt-art to map it again? if not look at ryan (3s have probaly mentioned him) or afr Glad to see your keeping her/finishing it

that happened to the sr, just dragged it onto the trailer, didnt screw the shafts or the clutch though :S put a new box in it, and it was fine....for a while

yes i do mate

how else are going to get a cv off wothoout taking the shaft out, when its "sandwiched" between the hub and shaft...and also how are you going to loose g.box oil? cv grease yes, g.box oil no..

not really, they'll just get heat-soak most of the time, if left in the standard posistion!

HKS FIlter, 26.00 without vat, so youll need to add a bit more http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/product_inf...oducts_id=13177

best bet is to keep an eye on here for second hand bits off members...i presume yours is an na? I would keep on the look out for a tte back box if i were you, and wouldnt bother with a open cone filter Get an upraed panel...HKS do one for around 25ish pounds

nice little round up mate! Thought about getting your fuelling tweaked ? as its rich topend for an n.a

Get on apexi's website, there is a support section that has all the wiring diagrams, it will basically be the same as the safc II, as in, power, ground, rpm, knock and airflow.

Hmmm dunno they, they defo make the front ones!

Just too add, they supposedly only work properly when stuffed with wire wool in the bottom, and in my opinion, i would vent it to the atmosphere not back into the intake

HKS AFR is a very basic fuel controller, if you want a cheap fuel controller, i would recommend a second hand SAFC II which can be picked up for around 80-110 quid. Lots more features than the HKS

Depends how your going about doing it, if you go to an RR, and have it checked, they will insert the sensor in the tailpipe of the exhaust.. If you have a wideband, that you will have in the car permantly, you dont want to be using the lambda sensor hole anyway, as its too close to the turbo down stream. You will need another bung welded on, further down the exhaust, i think the ideal is soemthing like 24" from the turbo downstream, this is to prevent sensor damage. The autobahn one does only have one bung, as the cat temp sensor (bottom one) isnt needed when installing a decat

Have you double checked you havent unplugged your abs sensor?

The FTE one (glanza V / GT Turbo) is 0.2mm thicker i beleive. The non-turbo ones are thinner, to have more compression.

Tm - Developments, phone him mate

Toyotas wont be poly though! dont trd or cusco make them?

ive seen this problem before..is it really hard to put it in/take it out of gear...its not always the release bearing..The 3 times ive seen this happen, its always been the clutch, the sprung center section had basically clapsed/came loose, basically making it un-aligend and not able to release/engage properly.. Strip it down, and check the clutch, take it off, and put your finger through the splined clutch plate hole, and wiggle it about, there shouldnt be any movement in it. If there is, thats your problem let us know how you get on!

i would personally take the whole shaft out, easiest way to do this, take the hub nut off + split pin etc...get the car jacked up, take the 2 nuts and one bolt off the lower arm, and loosen the anti roll bar link. Cut the metal band off that holds the inner boot onto the inner driveshafts mounts/cv. As you have taken off the 3 lower arm nuts/bolts and loosend the ARB links you will have enough movent to "lift" the hub/ball joint out of the lower arm. Then simply pull the hub outwards and the shaft will pop out from the gearbox side. once its cleared the box, you should be able to pull the outer CV/shaft out the hub. Once the shafts out, obviously get the boot and cv off, change the cv, and remeber to put the cir-clip back in. Then just trace your steps backwards...as youve cut off the metal band, you can use cable ties to hold the cv boot on. Put it all back together, and off you go! Dont forget to tighten the ARB links up again though!