yeea my bro sold it on shorter afterwards to a woman, bit crazy, was gonna try and take him to court as the car was "unsafe and dangerous" supposedly..
dont buy and exedy paddle, ive seen about 4 of them pop springs, one was only 800miles old whilst running in an engine lol.. cap paddles are good, aswell as act ones
block the pipes on the bottom of the tb..and the coolant one that would go from the thermo housing to the tb run that straight to the back of the water pump where that nipple Is
Re coolant and vac lines on the inlet Mani get rid of em (block the ones on the bottom of the tb) and the coolant one from the thermo housing run that straight to the pipe coming out the back of the water pump..there's a small nipple on there
you need to just get some sort of oil to the turbo and back out again...so either a sandwich plate, or tap it for the fte filter housing for feed, and then either a turbo sump or tap a fitting into your old n/a one. decent ecu and map sensor aswell..thats basically all you need, apart from the obvious other turbo gubbings etc... there was a company in aus that specialised in a n/a td04 kit, on a completely stock engine they made over 200bhp..
..different valve springs, thinner hg, different rods, knock sensor, sump, inlet mani/tb, distirbutor, thermo housing, rocker cover, crank pulley..quite a few, but you can swap it all over if needed.
you wont need the key and locks mate...imports have no immobiliser in the ecu so that isnt a problem..also im guessing your sr is a 98? what year glanza is the loom from? as when i had a 96 glanza loom to put in a 98 sr..the engine loom didnt fit up with the engine bay fuesbox..so youll need a 96 engine bay fusebox and headlight loom, and the interior loom didnt fit up with the rear light/fuel pump loom, so youll need a 96 one of those aswell.. turbo map sensor is required aswell.. hope this helps and your project gets underway soon
That's abit of shit luck dude! Just so you know I think a new rear quarter from Toyota is only about 250quid..so if you know someone who is handy with a welder, do that Was gonna say the insurance would write that off.. Same thing happened to me bro's GT, and he weren't gonna have it written off so, nothing happened in the end, regarding insurance.. Woulda just had to fix it yaself, which takes the pee when someone else did it Lol!
I thought you set it as 10 and then all the marks lined up.. So 10 on the bottom pulley.. Than the 4e mark on the cam pulley matches a indent on the head.. And then there's 2 lines on the back of the actual cam shaft sprockets that line up aswell.. Double check tho lol!
Run a vac line from your boost source to the bottom/side port on the wastegate. Put a "T" piece in that vac line and run it to NC.. Vac line from COM to top of wastegate
Check to see none of the wires have broken under the insulation where they go between the door shut and interior of the car..it's abit of a pain but it's quite often for them to break when they get old and brittle.. Especially when your opening and closing your door all the time..
Theres loads of different combinations in the car lol! Take it from the back of your headunit and it'll be either red or yellow.. Dunno why some companies do it the other way round, so it's never just one of em lol