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SpikeyJp_68

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Everything posted by SpikeyJp_68

  1. Side to side movement ? Is it possible to replace them at home ?
  2. I'll put a pic up of my valves tomorrow Not the valves the guides
  3. That's spot on cheers mate
  4. Head work has begun.. Plan on cleaning the valves tomorrow at work then I'll have to wait for the die grinder I bought to arrive so I can smoothen the inlet and exhaust passages along with the combustion area. Then I'll reseat the valves and then send it off to the machine shop to be skimmed and re-assembled
  5. Don't say give it to a machine shop, I wouldn't ask if I didn't want to do it myself Anyway, what way do the seals come out ? I'd imagine they lift up with a pair of long nose pliers or similar but they seem fairly firm when I tried that. What's the best way to do it ? - I have the valves & springs etc. Out of the head just need to remove the seals Also, when reseating the valves, will I grind them in using the old seals or new ones or is it irrelevant ? Many thanks in advance, Regards
  6. Off topic again I know but how is it with no power steering ? Better control ? Just don't like thinking of parking
  7. No use if from a GT unfortunately. Just got sorted in the past 5 mins. Can be locked if needed
  8. Seems to be done quite often in that case. A bit off topic here, but I take it the advantages are minimal of running a lighter (4efe) pulley as compared to the heavier (4efte) pulley ?
  9. If the wizards can do it, it will do for me
  10. Ended up with runs the last time I painted it.. take 2 Hopefully it'll end up the same colour as my cam cover
  11. Bump
  12. Crankshaft pulley has been removed and the engine now looks like this That's a bonus then, thought it increased lag quite a bit
  13. This is my 4efe one. Looks to be dampened judging by the rubber piece ?
  14. Air gets out but the compressor wheel isn't slowed down by having air shoved back out through it
  15. Dampened that's what I was looking for. Read through that, sounds a bit worrying but just heard of people doing it before with no problems Well that's good to hear. Would save me getting and replacing it with an FTE one
  16. Sounds nice, but you've to build all the boost back up again
  17. Read a few bits about this before but never got a definitive answer. Is a FTE crank pulley 100% needed on a turbo engine ? I know the FTE ones are harmonically balanced but what happens if I stick with the FE one ?
  18. For my own records: Tourque specs & limits http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?27569-4EFTE-Torque-Specs
  19. Top lad Colin I'd imagine a pair of vicegrips/water pump pliers would work ? Won't be needing it anyway Cheers mate
  20. Put extra pressure in your tyre ( not exceeding the max on the side wall) and go at it with a rubber mallet. Hit it on the outside, inside and the tread on full lock. After that I don't know. Best of luck with it and don't forget copper grease when putting it back on !!
  21. Got engine #2 yesterday to save me taking my one out. Started like this And is now stripped to just the block & crankshaft. Will take the crank pulley off tomorrow at work becuase my impact decided to pack in. Plan from there is to clean it as much as possible, hone the cylinders, measure my crank journals( big & main) then it can be snuck inside (for a clean environment) and built up after that. As for the head, I'll be doing the valve stem seals and I've bought some valve lapping paste and a stick so the valves will be reseated aswell. Will be resurfaced before going on. I'd upload some more pics but it says each file is limited to 2MB which I've never had before or at least I don't remember it
  22. Does the centre stud come out and will I need to drill holes any tap them ? Or will I get away with a gasket and sealer ? Thanks in advance.
  23. Up
  24. Pm'd
  25. Bump... I was given one but now I've gone to dig it out I can't find it....
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