SpikeyJp_68

Ah I see so for example the standard they used might be 1" +/- .04mm ? I've ordered plastigauge anyway so that will confirm if I'm within spec or not

That's what Toyota told me anyway. Said they had to get them from Japan even still it's a bit ridiculous.

Looking good pal

Used a shit tonne of wd40. I thought myself they looked a bit 'flakey' almost

It never came with a standard so that's why I sent it to the machine shop. It's a 1-2" micro calibrated at 1". It looks like I'll be sending the crank off to them anyways

It's imperial. 0.0001" Converted via google

Hi guys, Gotten round to measuring my crankshaft and I got the following numbers: No.1 = 40.045mm No.2 = 40.048mm No.3 = 40.048mm No.4 = 40.043mm The limits are 39.985mm - 40.000mm so how is this so ? Had my micrometer calibrated the day before in a machine shop and double checked my measurements which came in at +/- 0.0002" of the originals. Any help appreciated

The cylinders have been honed. Before And after

Cv joints themselves are 800 Euro a piece from Toyota. Just had new cv boots put on so they're good to go really. I will be for the time being with an FTE flywheel and clutch

To do it properly you'll need to remove the head. It can be done at home if your confident enough. As for keeping everything together you'll need a box like this and label the different sections in1 in2 ex1,2 and so on You'll also need a valve spring compressor to get the little collets out that keep the retainer in place.

I'll wait and see how you do yours and follow that becuase I can see myself making a mess of it

Let me know what it's like pal. Just bought the same kit myself

I'll have to go over them again with some fine grit for 2-3 mins per valve. Took about 2 and a half hours. Exhaust valves were badly pitted

Don't waste your time with a ct9 upgrade. Wait and go for a td/tf turbo or a ct12/9 hybrid that Colin suggested

Boom

They've been seated. Intake valves tool about 7 mins each start to finish as they were in pretty good condition anyway. Seated V non seated On the other hand, exhaust valves took about 15 mins a piece becuase they were quite badly pitted. I ended up doing 2 runs with coats and 1 run with fine. As before, seated V non seated Now they look like this ! Took about 2-2.5 hours in total and is quite therapeutic once you're properly set up for it haha

I'll let you know about time and the condition of my hands

Valves have been cleaned. Might start reseating them tomorrow

5-7 minutes of actual grinding is what I was told. I'll give one a go tomorrow starting with coarse ending with fine and go for a 1mm seat as Colin says. I'll time it start to finish so from applying the coarse grit to removing the fine grit and I'll report back with pics and a time

Apart from the older rs6 avant c5..

Only way to find out is to crack on and do it I suppose might give it a go tomorrow and see how I get on

I've bought a valve lapping stick, I've read it's not the best to do with a drill

That's okay, I'll check them though

Should just pull out mate. You could break up the grommet with a small screwdriver as they're only cheap

will be going that aswell Colin