Dingo Del

Hey ... Advances ! Well done Stu. Enjoying your other pages elsewhere also

Hey .... Nice looking

Hey ... Nice one Rob Thanks

Hey ... Another interesting helpful post Came across it while on Google images ! Although I have mine apart, and am rebuilding things with a new set of gears, so no need to do things that way. May I make a suggestion ( Excuse me if I'm wrong ) How about using studs instead of bolts while housing is apart ? Make / use very slightly longer studs ( Loctite in ... Pre-drill studs in cross over pattern for lock-wiring, then lock wire in after, in conjunction with more Loctite on nut of course ! If you can get your hand in there or should I say half hand and fingers ( less chance of damaging thread etc, and much easier the put nut on than a bolt ! )Then I'd assume you can get long nose pliers and then lock wire pliers also ?? Can think of few thing that would pi_s me off more for the bolts to come undone once fitted to car, or cross thread while attempting to do up. Anyway ... Thanks again

Hey .... Love ya work lad

Hey .... That's what I like to hear ! Like you it's quite cold here Stu. Had snow the other week and main HYW was blocked all day.

Opps ... Thanks for the heads up ! Hope all parts got sold. Fuel cell location is a little weird and way way to high though ?

Hey ... Good to see your work Thanks for sharing. Might be a torque steering monster without equal length shafts though ? Cheers ....

Hey Man .... Need some updates ! Thanks for sharing. . \

Nothing on Face Book for me

Hi Guys Thanks for your quick response .... Appreciated. Could you possibly advise either here on PM price you need for crank ? What size the journals are on both mains and ends too ? To save you both the effort ... I checked with Parcel Force but that was from Winchester The guy I spoke to, did not know about Parcel Services out of Ireland ? Global Economy was 112.95p Takes approx. 40 - 60 days days without tracking. ( Slow boat to China ) Global Value takes 6 -10 days and cost only 3 quid more and the bonus of tracking number ! They weight under 8 kg if packed with bubble wrap and dustbin liner type bag. Sizes are 44 cm X 13 cm X 11 cm. Also when checking crank/s could you please also check threads for front pully and also flywheel clutch end too Obviously I would prefer a STD / STD if I have an option. Please also check it has 1E raised in the casting ;) If you would like to send pictures. sales@motorsportwindscreens.com.au I would also need to pay with PayPal as a EFT to UK cost 19 pounds !! Thanks in advance .... Opps .... Edit : Thrusts need to be ok toooooo !

Hi .... As heading Guys. Realize some may find these good for a boat anchor .... Other's think they are gold dust Either way I have a boat and need an anchor, like gold too So seriously if you have one to spare I would love to purchase as I can't get one here in Australia as we did not get the 1E .... Knew I should have stayed at home cause I'd need one some time ! Thanks in advance.

Hey .... Love it man ! Del claps hands

Hey ... Great looking efforts, so much done in 2 months .... Nice one. Wish I was there as I need a STD EP70 bonnet Need your old crankshaft ?? If not needed and you want to sell ? Cheers .... Del

Hey ... Sorry for late response ... Been building cage which is worse than a bottle of sleeping tablets, and never seems to end, but it will be what I want soon. Thanks for your input Agreed .... Probably go the TRD as I prefer the centre set up. But if money was no problem the ATS Carbon. My build thread has our Motorsport Governing Body ( CAMS ) rules ... >http://docs.cams.com...p-3J-2015-1.pdf To run a car in IP ... One can't change the suspension design. MUST use original LCA and ALL rear end parts with the exception of suspension struts and hubs. One can add some strengthening / roll centre adjustment also to pick up points on chassis / LCA's ( But this can easily wreck bump steer etc ) Allowed to make fancy roll bars, which are free. ( If you have serious shocks you need serious roll bars ... Mine will be pretty girly ;) Can extend the ball joint pick up off the LCA for scrub radius, ( KPI ) but can't weld anything to the LCA. Must be bolted only. Can make provisions for bump steer though with either hubs or spacers etc. by the way .... Who wants newer cars with all the good gear ! ... I chose the EP70 as it has homologation pre- 1986 which all cars not manufactured here or sold here commercially must have. It will also be a challenge. Plus it's very light to start. We run on Yokies AO50R's now for two years and med compound. Thanks ... Know what you mean Huh. I used to drive a RB version Sunny, with three Nismo LSD's and a dog box. Couldn't hear yourself talk when turning in or starting off with lock on at low speed Used to enjoy driving it just listening to the box whine and diffs do their stuff.

Hey .... Enjoying your thread .... Thanks for sharing

Hey ... While looking for something else I come across this !!! What a I am, as 1 1/4 hrs later at 2.43 am and way past my bed time, I finally reach the anti climax .... is not finished Ahh well, no sweet dreams for me tonight loll Next time .... Top efforts my man

Hey ... Interesting ... Guess they still live in their 16th Century Thatched Roof Cottage Hmmm, Small world, they may find it is just that one day !! Later's

Hey ... Have the FIA Homolagation papers in disc format if anyone needs. This is for the 1985 version EP71 - EFI version ( A5271 papers ) not the turbo EP71 as that is 5/1986 on ( 5303 A Toyota Starlet Turbo (EP71) 1814 01.07.1986 J 6 ) Thanks if I can figure out how to post it up Here are the ones that I know of and I may be able to share .... 5022 A Toyota Starlet 1300 KP61 1290 01.04.1982 J 7 5136 A Toyota Starlet 1200 KP62 1166 01.04.1983 J 2 5270 A Toyota Starlet 1300 EP71 1296 01.05.1985 J 10 5271 A Toyota Starlet EFI EP71 1296 01.05.1985 J 8 5303 A Toyota Starlet Turbo (EP71) 1814 01.07.1986 J 6 5429 A Toyota Starlet (EP81) 1296 01.04.1991 J 2 5536 A Toyota Publica Starlet KP47 1166 01.11.1973 J 2 Tr 5566 A Toyota Starlet 3Door (EP91) 1332 01.03.1997 J 2 5755 A Toyota Starlet 1200 KP62 1166 01.04.1979 J Tr - FM Later's

Hi ... Thanks for your response lad. Is that the same company that make the Carbon Starlet diffs ? I was looking at those, a bit exy but .... Basically looking for the best transition with least aggression ( Smooth transition ) out there. Ok ... Thanks Rather than start a new thread ( Which I shall if I can't find I need here ! ) I'm told the Glanza Turbo drive line uses equal length drive shafts with a normal nearside ( Passenger ) shaft, and the drivers has a jack shaft from the diff to around the end of the block around the block face. There is a housing that may be bolted to the block which accommodates the jack shaft. Supports the end where the outer pot joint goes ) This shaft is simply a shaft with inner spline to go into the diff, the outer end fitting in a bearing before the a pot joint ( Just like the female passenger side one out the diff but longer. Then the outer shaft goes in and is then it becomes the same length as the passenger side. If this is right I will have to look for a set up in Jappa If not I'll look to have a housing made and use Drive Shaft Shop ( US ) to make the kit, to be safe. Please excuse me if I am wrong ... Still learning ... Damn fast

Thanks .... Chaps / Chappet's ( Is there such a word "? ) I'm sure humble enough to appreciate advise cause you never stop learning Just trying to get the right diff first time round if possible .... I am making many compromises to do things right and don't have buckets of dosh to do this project. Raced with Welded diffs and ZF ( Pawl Type ) Sailbury also way back when Noah was a boy. Not used TRD or ATS or KAZZ let alone Cusco ! So I guess I'm out of my depth and pretty lost .... As chassis set up dictates the " Correct diff " If the chassis is wrong the diff may as well be a viscose When you consider your depending on front tires to pay back engine torque with traction of the contact patch from two tires of possibly around half an A4 piece of paper, with crap tyre slip angles etc, I recon it's imperative to get things as best as one can. No point in spending thousands chasing torque, only to throw it away without getting it doing it's job designed for ! Would not consider the Quaife ever, as I tried those in the Mini and was pretty dis-appointed to be honest. I'll not say I'm up on things, as there's nothing worse, but have raced FWD cars for many many years. Each being different although supposedly the same ! Believe me I should have the rear end well sorted later .... As, as you say it's definately a weak link with chassis set up if you keen to exploit. Without sound like a nob. My build thread will show later, rear roll center adjustment, alloy hubs and disc brake conversion, in car adjustable roll bars etc etc camber toe a must Later's

Hey ... Thanks for the heads up. Things never change .... Do they. Thieving scum every where. For what it's worth I finally chose Keith from Zisco as he has been very helpful indeed. Got some very nice ratios too ! On a well sadder note. I invested tens of thousands in firstly Zeemaz International run by Barry & Donna Freedmen about 16 years ago based in Norfolk !! If it wasn't the guys contractor who gave me the heads up .... I would have also lost the Mini shell sent straight from Rover to have a kit fitted and painted at his shop, then sent out here as I was " Apparently " appointed as their man in OZ Yeh Recon ! They went into self liquidation and I got ZERO pounds back as I was way way down on the creditors list .... That finished my business of 10 years. Funny thing was after 6 months they were and still are trading again ... Same owner same product and probably using same molds too !!!! Then in 2011 ... I lost 20k to Auto Windscreens UK. The nob who ran the show knowing damn well that they were about to be for-closed on by the banks, still took all the money I had in the world to start Motorsport Heated Windscreens ... Found a new supplier in Tyneside and had to sell all I had to regroup. WTF Guess we have to be careful all round ....

Hi ... Thanks ... Other than the cost of the Quife product doesn't the diff release or rather not lock if you kerb hopp at any stage. I used GIG / Salsbury and also ZF when racing minis with the ZF I liked the best and that was a pawl diff. As all the TRD / KAZ / Cuzzco are about the same cost I'm looking more towards the TRD from reports here.

Hi People .... Have asked this in my build thread / blog but in case no one looks there ! Building a race car for circuit racing. No slicks buy AO50 R semis in Med comp. Should have pretty good HP and although searching, I am still interested to know what people think ( Preferably from experience not he said she said ) Which is the most popular LSD to use. Subject to availability of course. I have raced a few FWD cars but not a Starlet EP71 Any help appreciated .... Thanks in advance