satyrs

when metal gets hot it expands.. maybe it could be that problem with the leads. any kind of resistance on leads could affect the engine.

what i think they mean with a higher temp waterless coolant, that the boiling point of the fluid is higher. the coolant system works like a pressure coocker. take regualr water as coolant ( not a good idea but for the example) boiling point of regular water is 100 degree C. but when you alloq the water to be pressurerised it coud mean that the boiling point becomes 110 degree C. when water start to boil (gass is greater volume than liquid) the pressure risses and then the radiator cap would depressure the system by venting it to reservoir. so if you could increase boiling point of the c

better get a new clutch kit ;)

on boost u need "extra fuel" and some more retardation (dunno if it is good english) of ignition. if this is not provided it could missfire. special when you say that this problem came after plug replacement, check brand/gap of old plug and new. replace the old ones and see if problem is solved. something that could happen to al techs is not putting the cap good on plug. thus no sparksz goodluck

if that is not the problem you could try and upload a video while at idle and while driving so let some tech guys from here take a look and listnen. good luck!

yeah that's the way to reset. and to test the map sensor its real easy. turn on ignition and measure voltage of sensor at stationairy. should be around 1.4 volts (thats normal for most vehicles) and let some one Wot it should go to 4.5/4.8 volts.

check map sensor and lambda sensor. these will calculate the amount of air/fuel being used for the engine. if these check out correctly you could check for any vacuum leaks in the manifold. an extra dosis of air in the manifold could lean out the mixture. or your fuel delivery system is to low. (broken injector, blocked fuel filter/line), broken FPR. cheers, wouter

is your fuel pump relay still good? because if you bridge it it works...

if your battery is fine you can try to check if your starter motor still works by shortly connecting a 12v+ to the starter. if it turns you know that the starter is fine. if the starter is fine you have to check your starter relay. because you can't start working diagnostics on the fuel system if the car isn't cranking. good luck trouble shooting.

could be dead battery, to much resistance in the positive wire or a bad ground connection on your new location.

when we get a complaint of a customer about stinking a/c we do the following: change interior filter use this in the vent ducts. its called tunap 281 and we spray a little on the interior filter and the rest in the ducts and the radiator in the dash (dont know english word). let set for couple of minutes and then put a/c/blower on high so the stuff can do its job. when you put the blower on get the hell out of the car. because this stuff gives headache harder than a bottle of tequila. good luck, Wouter

i gues you cannot do it. it would be possible but maybe not acurate because the valves that let air in arent opening. that way there can be a faulty reading because the lack of air being sucked in. what you can do is a compression leak test. piston in tdc and block kranck. set pressure at x amount and let it rest. so you can see if the valves or rings are still good. good luck

no its atf for auto boxes, atf stands for automatic transmission fluid. 80w90 is for manual boxes

most of the time its the coil of the solenoid that losses strenght so it cannot push the pinion out of the housing.

Check fuses and relais and do a v4 measure. 1: battery voltage 2: plus from battery to starter 3: voltage over starter 4: ground after starter. This will check if everything is oke. Good luck

maybe there is a injector faulty. that doesnt close well. get the injectors out on the rail and let someone else turn the car over. see if the spray patern is the same of all 4.

great that you found the problem. !!

do you get a 12 volts on the injector loom?

or overfueling. could be miss installing the fpr. not ment to dissrespect but check the fpr is still good. or maybe mistake made with the fuel lines. good luck and let us know. cheers, wouter

before spending loads of money chaning parts on gues. bring it to a garage and ask if the have a scope meter. test the signal that goes to the injectors. the will be switched to earth to open and the signal will look like the following if there is no signal to the injectors check the resistance in the wires. so unlug from injector and ecu and measure. if the wires are oke your ecu is probblably toast. good luck man. cheers, Wouter

Keep injectors on fuel rail and turn the car over. While fuelrail is off the car. Watch if you see the spray off the injectors. If fuel and ignition works. Check compressions.

Check sprak plugs and duel filter. Those two items are easy neglected from maintenance. Can you post a video of the problemen so we can hear and see whats it like. Cheers, wouter

you can google it. its a pdf file with complete explenation. took me 2 secs to find it. with the search terms: glanza actuator.... http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTHER_PDFS/hksactuator.pdf

try to connect the powersupply from the fan and hook it up to the 12v of your battery. it should run. soo quick explanation: get a lenght of wire hold it on the 12v+ of battery and hook the other end on the wire of the radiator fan ( make sure the + side) fan should turn. thats all. fan doesnt turn: measure the resistance in fan. check resistance in wire from plug to thermoswitch.

he iamlegend, thanks for the pics, its a great help that i can move the dipstick with confidence. i'll try to make a how to for the fmic instal on an automatic. i'm sure i'm not the only one that runs in these problems. i'm keeping it on the stock ct9 and radiator and a/c. so i got some more fidling to do with all those extra piping. greetz, wouter