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Bean

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    2016
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Posts posted by Bean

  1. 8 hours ago, ashbuxton said:

    Interested in this mate as I need to upgrade injectors. Do the adapters make them a direct fit on the standard fuel rail? I’ve heard good things about the spray pattern on the Bosch injectors. Could you send me a link possibly to the ones you bought and the adapters to make them fit please? Seem a great price aswell.

    Thanks

    Ashley

    I bought these for my dc2 but the ones i bought were oem fitment on the newish shelby gt500 i believe.

    link

    There was an offer on bosch parts at the time so i got them a bit cheaper but there may well be a black friday offer on now. I bought these for my dc2. As Rob says best do your own research to ensure they will work for your application. These ev14 injectors are used quite a bit in the turbo honda world. MY mate also runs some in his 550bhp e30 he got his from ebay in america though.

  2. The other month I bought some 550cc bosch ev14 injectors and they were £104 delivered I think it was from opie oils then I bought some clip on adapters from America for about 20 quid, really good quality adapters too not like the little extension ones I've tried in the past. I'm sure there's ones in much bigger sizes.

  3. 8 hours ago, LeonL said:

    So if the arms being pulled by the cable the issue is Caliper related 

     

    if the arm isn’t moving it’s cable related? Or still possible to be the Caliper?

    cheers guys

    Pretty much. If you havent had the calipers off to check the condition of the pistons and seals you best have a look and be prepared to order a rebuild kit, or order one anyway as chances are you will need it at some point before long. If you get someone to slowly press the brake pedal once you have the caliper off you can get the piston out a bit more to check the condition and then wind it back in with a rewind tool. Or rebuild them and your good for a while. Its always good to get the piston wound right out then wind it right back in as just under normal braking and the hand brake the piston only ever moves a tiny amount so they can seize.

     

    When its back together remember to pump the brake pedal a good few times until its nice and hard before using the handbrake or driving the car, saves a suprise at the first junction!

  4. Check the condition of the rear calipers first also  if you get someone to pull the handbrake and you watch to make sure the cable is pulling and releasing the little arm it pulls on the caliper. The rear calipers need kept ontop of on these cars now as they are old. every year I unbolt mine, clean and regrease the sliders, then check the piston moves easily and is still in good condition and get some red rubber grease in the lip of the piston. If the piston has pitting on the sides of it its time for a new one and seals.

  5. On ‎10‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 9:33 AM, Nafeez2125 said:

    Calum122, i will have to correct you because the stock actuator has only one preload with 2 ports, if you blow on one side of the port the air come out straight through the other one. there is no 2 chambers.

     

    Cheers Nafeez2125 . So as I said above by fitting the t piece to connect up the stock boost solenoid this is like the stock plumbing with the 2 port actuator.

  6. 10 hours ago, Calum122 said:

    No because that's not how an actuator works. The stock actuator has two preload settings. The solenoid diverts the sensory flow to either one of the preloads. The HKS actuator only has one adjustable preload setting. So diverting the air through a T piece isn't going to solve anything. Some people suggested bleeding to atmosphere, but again this isn't a good idea. Since you're bleeding the sensory off to atmosphere, the actuator would never open.

    Your not diverting the air through a T piece it diverts it through the stock boost solenoid.

    this is a copy from the hks fitting instructions.

    HKS.jpg

    Another option is a JAM Racing actuator which has two ports.

     

     

     

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