Nafeez2125

Just an update, ive bridge the TE1 and E1 and start the engine when it was hot and it started straight away. does that mean anything?

by any chance do you have an engine code?---diagnostic???

what grade plugs?

no engine codes gorgan. plugs are NGK copper core heat range 7

I know it's not helpful but my GT has done this for 6 years. It's always cranked more when hot, but it's never failed to start. Usually ECU temp sensor but if you've changed it...

is temp sensor the only one in charge for starting up the engine? or is there other sensor that contribute to start up

Thanks

Hello all,

ive been having a problem with my ep91 glanza v for a while now. it starts fine when the engine is cold but when the engine is up to temperature, turn it off and leave it for like 15 mins and start it again , it will crank for like 3 to 5 seconds and then start. i really dont know what is causing this.

Ive replaced the coolant sensor(3 pins)

Tunning development 255 lph fuel pump

Magnecor HT leads

new NGK copper core spark plugs (Heard that the irridium one can cause hard start)

new battery

new uprated alternator

new geniune dizzy cap, rotor arm

things that im a bit concerned now is the fuel pressure regulator but if it was the regulator then even cold start would have been difficult. am i right?

ignitor and ignition coil

Please help!! i really dont know what to check anymore.

Thanks guys

Hello mate, is your problem sorted now? Im having the same problem here.

Thanks

Has it been sorted mate? im experiencing long crank when my engine is warm.

For the spark plug concerns there is a few test you can do.

1. check the resistance value of spark plug 4 and see if the value is the same for plug 123, if not then you've got a faulty plug

2. check your rotor arm and dizzy cap see if the is any crack or the rotor is not touching the pin for cylinder 4 properly

3. check the condition of your spark plug wire if there is a split somewhere it will definitely decrease the spark.

Hope that helps.

Bump

normally the handbrake trigger is -ve one so when you lift your handbrake a -ve signal should go to the HKS unit. since i couldnt fine one (i think my handbrake trigger is +ve) ive just connected the handbrake signal from the HKS unit to a ground on the car. so everytime i remove the key it works.

Hope that helps.

Saw a black glanza near lakeside yesterday, anyone here?

Hi Guys,

Does any one know how to test a Glanza ignition coil And what are the resistance values?

Thanks

So your coolant temperature sensor was snapped? or the wires? coil is quite straight forward to remove. 3 bolts on the firewall and 4 philip screws.

Did you manage to sort it out? Is your turbo housing rubbing somewhere?

was it a connection problem?

a bit confusing, needs an actual picture

yeaa, get the diagnostic done check link below.

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=EFI+self-diagnosis+system

Ive got one

ive got a stock Glanza v Exhaust system.

i recon there is a vacuum leak somewhere. try spraying some carb cleaner on the pipes and the around the intake gasket while its on and see any changed on the engine sound.

Have you checked the TPS?

okay.might be the wiring, do it step by step, before buying a coolant temp sensor check the wires form the sensor to the ecu, sometimes it just snap

Do a diagnostic see if the code for TPS comes on, if not then check your throttle position sensor. might need to be calibrated

After the coil i would suggest checking your battery and alternator, because if your battery doesn't have enough juice it can cause the misfire on start up and long cranking. Start up uses a lot of current.

is your one 2 pins or 3 pins?

i had this problem before and it was the radiator cap. replaced it with a 1.1 bar cap problem solved.