Nafeez2125

Your still not asking the right question

Again the answer is no power gain

Unless you change something else to require that extra fuelling potential

Phil

Hi Phil,

Sorry im not arguing with you im just trying to increase my knowledge. when you said something else you mean an uprated fuel pump or is there some more things that need changing?

I know that maybe I didnt ask the question properly, my question was what is the power gain after swapping the injector and fine tune the emanage for that particular injector.

Non .. there is no horsepower to gain just by swopping 4 injectors, it's more than likely you will loose power.

An injector works by a voltage signal being sent from the ecu. Each voltage corresponds to a pulse time and flow (duty cycle) telling the injector how long to open for and how much fuel to flow.

If you go putting a larger injector into your engine without programming the pulse and duty cycles the ecu will presume the injectors are the same flow and not make corrections for the amount of fuel.

I.e

when a standard injector flows 295cc @100% duty cycle at w.o.t and full boost (6psi),

That's all kinds of good fuelling.

If you take an uprated injector that flows 550cc @100% duty cycle and the ecu asks the injectors for 100% duty. Well, you can imagine the outcome.

shocks are gone, its not the spring.

for what vehicle?

mine would be different because its got 3 pins, anyone has ever tested a 3 pin coolant sensor off a 1998 spec glanza V??

Thanks

what was the problem mate?

i think it will rub on your wheel arch when you go over humps. you will need to roll your wheel arch mate.

I did mine, I was straight forward.

they are much better than the average ebay cores.

When you say much better, in which ways? how to feel the difference, is it just the boost lag?

so what maybe is happening is that even the engine is warm (if the sensor is not working or if there is wiring problem) the ecu is still sending fuel as if the engine is cold and thus causing high fuel consumption

Am i right?

And by the way how do you check your 2 pin coolant sensor Just check for resistance value on cold and hot?

Ohh i didnt test it. how do i test if its correct? and can this cause the high fuel consumption?

Did you get it sorted mate? I am a bit curious because i am having the same problem but not as bad. just a longer crank when engine is warm

Hello boys and girls,

Its been nearly a year now trying to sort out the fueling but still no success. With one full tank im only getting 190 miles in winter and in summer i get 250 miles. ive changed my fuel filter, send my injector for ultrasonic cleaning and replaced all the seals, new Iridium spark plugs, new HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, new 255lph tuning development fuel pump, new thermostat, new 3pin coolant sensor and the one wire oxygen sensor.

And also i have calibrated the TPS, test the MAP sensor and check all the wiring from ecu to the senors and all the wires are good. on a cold start up you can smell fuel from the exhaust

Can any one please help maybe i missed something.

Thanks

Car: Glanza V year 1998 Manual

Mods: just K&n air filter and HKS BOV, Decat, and HKS hi-silent exhaust. stock internals

How much horsepower gain for swapping Injectors and the emanage mate?

Ive heard good reviews for the Duracell battery DA45 type 156

its currently on offer at euro car parts. 69% off

Steelmate from eBay, quite cheap and reliable.

i think you should put it on to reduce the winding noise inside the car, it act like a sound proof insulation. not sure, can anyone confirm?

Just put your multimeter on continuity and put one pin on the common wire of the relay and the other to a metal part of the car and see if there is continuity. if there is that means its -ve trigger if not it must be +ve trigger. but im pretty sure its -ve trigger.

When you said leak you mean la leak in throttle body the gasket or somewhere inside?

Glad that your problem is sorted mate.

what i can suggest is to check your thermostat sometimes when its stuck open it will mess up everything because the coolant temperature will not reach optimum working temperature therefore the ecu will think your engine is cold and will over fuel it and idle control valve will be wide open thinking that the engine needs more air. thats why its idling high

second option is the coolant temperature sensor itself is faulty and third option is the throttle position sensor

Hello Guys,

Just a quick update, ive replaced my thermistor and it works perfectly fine just like before. you just needs to be friendly with a soldering iron and be very gentle and patient to get the job done.

Similar to a scangauge. Shows engine data. These can still be bought new.

Where can I buy it?

yea very rare. saw one on a japan auction site for 150 pound but it was t2 like yours.

I've got one but not engraved in chrome.

its the one on the left hand side