ste91

You wont be disappointed with it aslong as it's been kept well, I have a Sportif myself and you shouldn't find any problems with it, there are hardly any electrical goodies so there should be no electrical problems, the engines are mostly bulletproof aslong as they have been maintained so no problems there either. If you are interested in modding it check out the technical section there's loads of info in there. How many miles are on it just out of interest?

GL with the MOT It's no longer than the standard airbox piping really... I was going to go for the same setup myself but it was cheaper and easier to go with a short pipe setup, also gives no worries about water getting sucked in. How are you finding it Rob? On my setup it feels as if there is some "lag" but then it picks up like a motherfucker at higher revs.

It ruins Supras IMO, the best look for the Supra is standard.

Not exactly to my tastes but you've made a very good job of it it does look professional and from some angles doesn't look bad at all, the paint is a bit flashy for me but you've obviously put alot of effort into it, you can definately tell it's a proper job and not some bodge job bodykit that's been painted with rattle cans.

You have more vids? Maybe edit them all into one?

lol look who has graced us with their presence long time ^^

Post what you want IMO, there will always be atleast one person who doesn't like something and there will always be atleast one person that does like it.

+1

You obviously took that the wrong way Joz... (maybe I shouldn't have quoted you?) It was aimed at no one in particular but some people take everything seriously, the vid looked to me like fun whereas some people wouldn't ever do such things.

This is all I have to say:

Mine have no problem with it but my dad interferes with EVERYTHING I do to the car. And while I appreciate his help it does get annoying sometimes when he just takes over... but then again, it's not that bad and I don't mind it too much, but sometimes it pisses me off when he thinks he knows everything and just completely takes over as if it's his own car. He has no problem going for a blast in it either lol and I think he'd probably buy a Glanza if he could. I don't ever have stuff lying around, we don't have a garage and the shed is mostly full with tools and toys... I keep everything in my bedroom, had wheels and tyres in here 6 months ago, the tyres made the room smell bad haha same here

lol

lmao

The rev gauge is in... Will get pics, or maybe even a video tommorow.

Yeah it drives fine though, been out in it this afternoon quite a bit, no problems. But it's just the fact that it's not completely reliable and might lose the connection if there's a bad bump in the road or something and it knocks it the wrong way... then you've got the hassle of unscrewing the glovebox panel and pissing around with it so the panel is staying off for now until it's completely sorted. Will try the solder if nothing else works.

Welcome to UKSC and LOL mr boombastic http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8oon8cf7b9k&...feature=related next mod you need to get yourself is a corolla inlet manifold

Don't ask me, I'm not convinced at all (I'm 99.9% sure it's the fucking wires) but my dad seems to think it's the ECU.

It's working again now, not as bad as it was before, but I'm going to get a spare ECU just incase. Anyone got any ideas on what to do with the dodgy wires/plastic block thing that the wires are going into?

lol saw this earlyer when I looked at your exhaust vid, where was this taken?

Until today I myself was a complete beginner to wiring, hadn't touched it before, didn't have the slightest idea what to do or how to do it. Here is a guide on how to wire a basic rev gauge (tachometer/rev counter/rpm gauge/whatever else you like to call it). It may be a bit long-winded but I'll try to include every little detail so anyone who is clueless like I was can do it with ease. What you will need other than the gauge itself: wire (get a good length of it) straight wire connectors (the spade type ones are what I used) block wire connectors (for splicing into other wires, can't think of a way to describe them) "U shape" connector for the ground wire tape (for taping wires together and securing joints) wire cutters/pliers/scissors (either one will do) screwdrivers and maybe a torch You can buy all the wires and the connectors you'll need from Maplin for no more than £10 at the very most. You might need a torch if you need to go under the dash. Ok, first you'll want to take out the passenger side panel (the glovebox), there are 4 or 5 screws/bolts then you just pull the whole thing out, be careful there isn't anything heavy in the glovebox as it will fall open when you do this. Once that is out of the way, you'll want to measure up roughly the lengths of the wires, and where you want to position your gauge. I put my gauge to the right hand side of the dashboard, next to the A pillar, and have pushed the wires down the tiny gap between the A pillar and the dashboard. This has made it nice and neat and there are no wires showing anywhere. I have all my wires underneath the dash, for this bit you will need a torch to be able to see properly, and you must route the wires so that they do not interfere with the pedals. I took mine right underneath the dash, past the centre console, into the passenger side which is why I said to take out the panel with the glovebox. So now onto the wiring. My gauge had 5 wires altogether, it ended up being 3 as some could be joined together. My gauge has the following wires: Red - Power source when the ignition is on 2x Black - Ground Green - RPM signal Orange - Light for the gauge Yours may be different, check your instructions if you are unsure. I joined my two ground wires into one, and the power for the gauge and power for the light into one. That takes it down to 3 wires. The ground wire is simple, using the "U shape" connector, find a good ground where there's a bolt or screw, (there are a few behind the glovebox panel that you should have removed, easy to find) undo the bolt slightly, put the U shape connector behind it, and do the bolt back up. Job done. The power wire is next. Take out the clock, and look on the back of it, you should see four wires going into it, and to the side of where the wires are connected in it is written what each of the wires are. Using a "block connector" (can't think of a better way to describe them) splice into the wire which is labelled "Acc (+)". Then put the clock back in. If you do this the same way as I have done it leaves no wires showing and is very easy to get to. And finally the RPM signal, for this you will need to run the wire through the firewall. There is a hole (there's a rubber bung it in) to roughly where the fuel lines run up the back of the engine bay. Take the wire through here, up to the diagnostics box. Inside the diagnostics box there is a label inside showing what each connector is, you want the one on the end called "Ig-" which is a spade connector so it's really easy to connect to if you bought some spade connectors. So that's it all wired up, start the car up and try it out. Give the car a little rev just to make sure the needle goes up properly, there might be a switch on the back of your gauge for selection of how many cylinders, make sure your settings are correct. And there you have it, a fairly quick and easy way of wiring up a rev gauge with no messy wires hanging out anywhere.

I've also just done mine. The one in the diagnostics box does work, it's even got a spade connector thingy on it so you can properly connect it.

Still annoying though, what could have realisticly taken 20 minutes has taken a good half of a day or two... if I had known what to do in the first place. Oh well I suppose I can write up a little "how to" later on, but it will be pictureless (not that you need pictures really).

Took us all bastard morning but me and my dad got it working. Not bad for £25.

LOL! It sounds like a fucking WRX! That's fucking amazing, best sounding inline 4 I have ever heard.

Tried the small bit of wire, didn't work. Fucking shitty things, a few millimeters of wire/connection causing all this trouble.